Curt, Drawtite or Reese Hitch?

Could also be due to my buying the car when it was 5 degrees out and yesterday it was 50. I'm going to leave the pressure where its at. I've always filled my tires to 40 and never had any excessive center wear, and most tires have been max psi 44, these are higher so it should be fine.
 
I bought the Curt Class II (12080) hitch though Amazon for $108. I wound up ordering three, here is why. The first one came with a major ding in the paint the size of a half dollar exposing bare metal. I returned it and Amazon sent a second one with 2 day shipping, no charge. The second one had 14+ chips to bare metal all over. I returned that one and received a third with 2 day shipping. The third arrived with only a slight imperfection/mar to the paint but did not expose the metal. I kept this one. Kudos to Amazon for fixing this issue quickly. Curt customer support recommended calling one of their platinum e-tailers (you can find them on Curt's site). Curt said they drop ship for these e-tailers and could hand pick one from the Curt warehouse.

It took a buddy and myself 45 minutes to install from the time I got the rear end lifted. Directions were spot on. The best tip was to leave the hangers on the car not the exhaust and use plenty of PB Blaster.
 
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So is the best for the money hitch for a bike rack or trailer?

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
 
I was wondering if I could do it myself, good to know. I'll then be getting a Bike mount as well.
 
Yes, it's easy see post #18. You don't need an air tool impact wrench. You will really just need a torque wrench and proper socket (3/4" I think?) with an extension. If you don't have a good jack, get a helper for a few minutes.
 
I finally decided to start doing some biking this year so I went to a local bike store and bought a couple of Specialized Crosstrail Disc for me and my wife. This would be my first time buying a trailer hitch and bike rack. After doing some research it seems like all 2-bike racks are design to be use with a 1.25” hitch receiver and they just include an adapter to use with 2” receivers. Apparently only bike racks that can carry three or more bikes are the ones that are 2” only receivers.

If I only need a two bike rack and I don’t think I would be doing any towing, should I just get the 1.25” Curt Class II hitch?
 
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Get the 2", it will give you more options with regard to bike racks and you'll be less likely to have issues with the rack rocking around in the hitch. I went with the Curt Class III 2" hitch and am extremely happy with it. I also highly recommend the Kuat NV rack, it's alloy and much lighter and better made than comparable products from Thule or Yakima. It also includes the locks and keys that you have to pay extra for with the others.
 
I finally decided to start doing some biking this year so I went to a local bike store and bought a couple of Specialized Crosstrail Disc for me and my wife. This would be my first time buying a trailer hitch and bike rack. After doing some research it seems like all 2-bike racks are design to be use with a 1.25” hitch receiver and they just include an adapter to use with 2” receivers. Apparently only bike racks that can carry three or more bikes are the ones that are 2” only receivers.

If I only need a two bike rack and I don’t think I would be doing any towing, should I just get the 1.25” Curt Class II hitch?

Buy the 2" class III hitch.
You can always buy a 3 bike rack, more space so your bikes don't scratch each other.
Also, 1.25" racks suck cuz they are usually a solid piece so you can't put in anti rattle devices. 2" hitch devices are usually hollow so you can use anti rattle devices.

If I had known, I would have gotten the Class III. I was a total noob when I got mine.
 
I went with the Curt 2" class III, like others mentioned I got it from Amazon as they had the best price but Curt's powder coating is poor at best. The hitch came with quite a bit of the black coating chipped off. I don't have time to send back and forth so I sanded the bad spots and primered and painted them. The hitch is a cake walk to install anyone with the desire can do it. The reason I went with 2" is most of the 4 bike racks are 2" like the Thule T2. If you never plan on going more than 2 bikes the 1 1/4" should be fine.
 
That is great design for lightweight hitch design. I would assume it "cluncks" a little more than standard hitch as it will have two places with slip fit but for aesthetics that is sweet!
 
I have the Class II Curt and I just ordered the Class III.
1-1/4 with my bike rack rattles and moves and wiggles a lot. Tried some things to make it tight but doesn't work. Not a lot of anti-rattle devices for Class II.
My bike rack also can do both and has anti-rattle built in for the Class III mount.
Also much better and nicer racks for Class III.

I'll be selling my Class II on Craigslist.
 
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The Curt class 3 (13127) is the one I went for. The CX-5 can only tow 2000lbs max, realistically, 1700lbs max to be safe. One should never tow near the max, it just a rule of thumb. Anyway, I'd rather have a stronger connection point then not. Maybe a small trailer in the future, who knows. The hitch carries a Thule Helium 2 Aero bike rack weight just 21lbs plus 2 kids bikes for now.
 
Curt 13127 2" here as well. Hitch mounted bike rack (1UP USA... amazing racks handmade in Wisconsin. Easiest to mount bikes on and off and doesn't touch the frame. Takes about ten seconds per bike at the most). Anyhow, <1hr install. Most of the hitch tucks nicely into the bumper cover.
 
Happy with my class 3 (2") as well. I needed a tree stumper and used it to tow a trailer with the stumper so already it paid off getting the larger hitch. The class 2 hitches even look funny, like a fake toy hanging off the back. Glad i got the 2"!
 

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