Cp-e Xcel Nano install and review w/ pics n vid

Quick question on the install. You know the metal part that mounts to the battery holder. I see in the install pictures that it is indented or bored out where you put the factory nuts back onto the screws. Mine is not this way. It is completely flat on both sides. I didn't think anything of this until I tried to install the nuts and one will go on but the other will not. I drove it around town, about 10 miles. Nothing has gone lose but I am worried about not having the nut on one of these screws. Please advise?
Should I contact CPE and tell them that this part is different than the one in the picture or the one I see in this post? Thanks guys
 
Well I just got back from de-virginizing the intake. The sound is intoxicatingly amazing, the mid range power gain more than caught me off guard. I installed it w/o a problem following CP-E's instructions. It is very quiet until about 2.75k rpm then it opens up and get's louder. No significant sound increase crusing on the highway. Well worth the money IMO.

^ +1 - the install was easy with good vendor instructions. So far, I am happy with the power gains, but not able to really jump on it yet. Sweet mod.
 
Quick question on the install. You know the metal part that mounts to the battery holder. I see in the install pictures that it is indented or bored out where you put the factory nuts back onto the screws. Mine is not this way. It is completely flat on both sides. I didn't think anything of this until I tried to install the nuts and one will go on but the other will not. I drove it around town, about 10 miles. Nothing has gone lose but I am worried about not having the nut on one of these screws. Please advise?
Should I contact CPE and tell them that this part is different than the one in the picture or the one I see in this post? Thanks guys


Contact CPE so they can send you a new one. I think they missed this one.
 
I installed mine last night. This first picture shows the only problem that I ran into, the little plastic piece stuck out and was in the way of the Nano bracket mount. I ended up just clipping it off as best I could so it was no big deal. Love this thing!

MOTOR003.jpg


MOTOR001.jpg


Cheers!
 
I installed mine last night. This first picture shows the only problem that I ran into, the little plastic piece stuck out and was in the way of the Nano bracket mount. I ended up just clipping it off as best I could so it was no big deal. Love this thing!

MOTOR003.jpg


MOTOR001.jpg


Cheers!

Its like fixing a clogged sink with dynamite! hahaha(lol)
 
I installed mine last night. This first picture shows the only problem that I ran into, the little plastic piece stuck out and was in the way of the Nano bracket mount. I ended up just clipping it off as best I could so it was no big deal. Love this thing!

MOTOR003.jpg


MOTOR001.jpg


Cheers!
It did not have to be cut. A flat head screwdriver to lift up the piece is all you needed.:)
 
MOTOR003.jpg


See the bolt and nut that is on the right side of the vibro-mount. When I was taking off this bolt and putting it back on, the first 2 threads got stripped off and now I can't get the damn bolt back on. The rest of the screw is fine but literally the first two threads are stripped. Anyone have any suggestions about retreading the top of this so I can get the bolt back on? I was possibly thinking maybe I could take a metal file and file off the top part until I cleared away the stripped threads. Figured I would ask first before I tried anything.

This is not my picture it is PCspeed3's, I just didn't have a picture I could use to describe what I was talking about.
 
Well great, I should have looked at this thread before installing mine. Although its not a big deal, I dont think a plastic tab will blow my motor or anything. IKE filing down that bolt is probably your best bet, you may be filing for an hour or two, but I would imagine it would work.
 
PCspeed3, thanks for the help, the one nice thing about all the houses around me being destroyed by flooding is that all the contractors know how to chase a thread and rethread the top part of bolts, hopefully it will work out, if not im busting out the file.
 
Regarding the cross-threaded bolt. A couple suggestions along the line of "do it right rather than mess up another part:

1. Take the bolt to a good hardware store and get a replacement. Probably cost what - maybe 30 cents.

2. Take the bolt to a machine shop or any good independent garage and have them run the bolt through the correct size die. That will probably cut off the cross threaded metal and restore the threads.

3. Get a small set of taps and dies for smaller standard and metric thread bolts and nuts. That might cost a few bucks, but having them has saved my butt many times over the years. They really come in handy if you are going to do much work on your car or around the house. I usually seem to bugger the threads on one up on the weekend when all the stores are closed.
 
Regarding the cross-threaded bolt. A couple suggestions along the line of "do it right rather than mess up another part:

1. Take the bolt to a good hardware store and get a replacement. Probably cost what - maybe 30 cents.

2. Take the bolt to a machine shop or any good independent garage and have them run the bolt through the correct size die. That will probably cut off the cross threaded metal and restore the threads.

3. Get a small set of taps and dies for smaller standard and metric thread bolts and nuts. That might cost a few bucks, but having them has saved my butt many times over the years. They really come in handy if you are going to do much work on your car or around the house. I usually seem to bugger the threads on one up on the weekend when all the stores are closed.

Thank you so much for the reply, I have been doing some research on this the past few days and it seems like getting a tap and die set is my best bet.
If anyone knows how to take out the bolt that I am talking about, let me know because I would replace it, if I actually could figure out how to remove the thing? Thanks guys
 
Cp-E Xcel Nano

First time I use this forum,

I decide in a SRI for five reasons,
1. It cheaper
2. Better throttle response
3. Easier to clean
4. Better sound
5. In a vehicle that has a turbo, it would seem that the intercooler is the real factor as to how cold the air gets before it goes into a combustion chamber and not the CAI or SRI since the moment the air touches the turbo it would get hot. The SRI would open the restriction of the stock intake.

I decided to go with the Nano instead of the Cobb; I received my CPE Nano on the 12th of this month and installed it in about 1.5 hours; I found that the instructions were a lacking a bit; a downloadable PDF would be better since the color on the manual was washed out. I disconnected the batter to reset the MAF. This is a nice mod; I’ve only had my MZ3 since September. I noticed the car breathes better; and has more power in the upper mid to high band since the turbo seems that it does not have to work as hard in the low range (500 - 2,000). I can hear the Nano at about 2,400 – 2,500 and perhaps the turbo spool at about 3,000. I did notice that my BOV does not hold the boost as well (I would have loved to get both the Nano and the Forge BOV polished, but lacking funds for both). Overall the one thing I noticed was the improved gas mileage. I’ve boosted quite a bit and have only used up about a little less than half a tank when I first installed it and filled the tank all the way. Prior to the mod I would have gone of a tank easily. I hope when I add the BOV it will still keep that MPG. I know once I get a better BOV, I’ll gain some HP/TQ back.
 
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If you talk to performance folks they'll tell you'll get cooler temps from the intercooler if the IAT is lower, ie from a CAI.
 
First time I use this forum,

I decide in a SRI for five reasons,
1. It cheaper
2. Better throttle response
3. Easier to clean
4. Better sound
5. In a vehicle that has a turbo, it would seem that the intercooler is the real factor as to how cold the air gets before it goes into a combustion chamber and not the CAI or SRI since the moment the air touches the turbo it would get hot. The SRI would open the restriction of the stock intake.

I decided to go with the Nano instead of the Cobb; I received my CPE Nano on the 12th of this month and installed it in about 1.5 hours; I found that the instructions were a lacking a bit; a downloadable PDF would be better since the color on the manual was washed out. I disconnected the batter to reset the MAF. This is a nice mod; Ive only had my MZ3 since September. I noticed the car breathes better; and has more power in the upper mid to high band since the turbo seems that it does not have to work as hard in the low range (500 - 2,000). I can hear the Nano at about 2,400 2,500 and perhaps the turbo spool at about 3,000. I did notice that my BOV does not hold the boost as well (I would have loved to get both the Nano and the Forge BOV polished, but lacking funds for both). Overall the one thing I noticed was the improved gas mileage. Ive boosted quite a bit and have only used up about a little less than half a tank when I first installed it and filled the tank all the way. Prior to the mod I would have gone of a tank easily. I hope when I add the BOV it will still keep that MPG. I know once I get a better BOV, Ill gain some HP/TQ back.

Well the forge bvp is cheaper than a nice bov. I would recommend just getting the forge. I'm running both right now and the car sounds mean! I've never had people on the street look back at my car and be wondering is that a mazda3? Haha, its an awesome piece though, I do believe the Cobb sounds a little better though but feel that both almost same pull. As for the mpg, I noticed today going to woodbridge from falls church which I do at least 2 to 3 times a week, my cars gas went slower even though I gunned it quite a few times!
 
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