thanks, but all 4 are like this and it takes an hour or so to get them, free (with my method at least) I'm just going to get it done at a shop.
The stud has a 5mm hex in the end. You hold brace it with the hex wrench and turn with a box wrench.Just installed my springs last weekend and had this problem aswell, Its due to link threads being rusty and that ball socket naturally turns in the link body. Easy fix! spray with penetrating oil then push back link boot towards inside of car while attaching (tightly) needle nose visegrips to the inside of link stud, remove nut while holding visegrips to prevent stud from spining, I used 3/8 impact with my air compressor (easier of course). Ive ran into this with ball joints before so I knew instantly what to do.![]()
I had them for almost 10k miles and I don't have any issues. I also have the CS rear swaybar installed. I had to readjust my driving style, read go slower, over rougher roads/freeways, but that's it. It is pretty hard core though. When there is a sudden slope on the road or freeway, you really have to slow down, otherwise it will be a very hard hit.
I see. What stiffness did you set it at?It is FWD and I have installed it on jacks. It is not hard, but a bit frustrating, when you have to remove and put back the swaybar, due to space constraints.