Cooling down the Engine Bay
- Thread starter ViksMSP
- Start date
DistantTea
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed... of DOOM!
Anyone who is serious about underhood temps should contact JetHot. JetHot (or similar) coatings inside and outside of the S pipe and turbo manifold pipes will drop the temps inside your engine bay massive amounts... usually in the realm of 50% to 70%. Engine block heat dosn't really account for jack in there. Its all coming from the exhaust piping and turbo.
JetHot on the header is about $185 + shipping... I'm sure you can get a cheaper, similar product locally. The S pipe needs it too. You can't jethot your turbo but you can get a turbo heat booty for the exhaust side to help keep radiated heat out... but I doubt the long term wear something that like that might do. JetHot will make your coated parts last damn near forever and you'll gain HP from exhaust temp scavenging.
After that your intercooler pipes should stay nice and cool, but if you wanted to wrap them in thermal tape they'll stay ambient. If you have monster cash you could coat everything in the engine bay... makes it pretty but your checkbook will be empty.
After that a mix of water wetter and 50/50 or if you live in the southern states were it never freezes pure distilled water and water wetter is the best solution. A properly jethotted exhaust manifold and S pipe will do nearly all the work for you though if you are serious.
JetHot on the header is about $185 + shipping... I'm sure you can get a cheaper, similar product locally. The S pipe needs it too. You can't jethot your turbo but you can get a turbo heat booty for the exhaust side to help keep radiated heat out... but I doubt the long term wear something that like that might do. JetHot will make your coated parts last damn near forever and you'll gain HP from exhaust temp scavenging.
After that your intercooler pipes should stay nice and cool, but if you wanted to wrap them in thermal tape they'll stay ambient. If you have monster cash you could coat everything in the engine bay... makes it pretty but your checkbook will be empty.
After that a mix of water wetter and 50/50 or if you live in the southern states were it never freezes pure distilled water and water wetter is the best solution. A properly jethotted exhaust manifold and S pipe will do nearly all the work for you though if you are serious.
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- 2003.5 Titanium Gray MSP #1699
http://www.jet-hot.com/WildWolf said:
where can i get a lower temp thermostat?
where is the thermostat located? is there a how to on it ?
is this something that i have to change later on when i get a bigger radiator(or comes with the radiator)?
and how many bottles of WW is needed if im gonna have all water and WW ? ones still enough ?
where is the thermostat located? is there a how to on it ?
is this something that i have to change later on when i get a bigger radiator(or comes with the radiator)?
and how many bottles of WW is needed if im gonna have all water and WW ? ones still enough ?
true heat is energy, but if you can keep using the heat that the engine has rejected, then we would have a perpetual machine and thus violates the 2nd law of thermodynamic. We unfortunately don't live in a perfect world and just to let you know, that 4 banger in your hood is only converting about 30% max of energy from fuel you burn into actually moving the car.ViksMSP said:
The heat that is in your engine bay are rejected heat form your various components. They can't do more useful work, unless you raise their pressure. But to do that you need to pressurize the air. But it takes more work to compress hot air than cold air, therefore, I suggest 2 ways of dealing with this
1) heat transfer the heat to your propulsion system so you decrease amount of heat u put into the system, i.e. less fuel burn. This however, is hard to do with our piston engine as u know this requires the preheating of fuel or air thus raising the making the engine more ikely to knock
2)Vent it and keep your engine in its optimal operating temp. range so it can be the most efficient. Using your coolant system to remove the heat will only work your cooling system harder and requires more work from your engine to drive the fan and pump. I wouldn't heat wrap as it would stress your parts faster due to thermo stress and possible creep
LAZERBLU2003.5
Member
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege'
yeah it helped out a whole bunch you ca really tell the difference what removing a little piece of rubber can do
Wiggles422 said:
Wiggles422
Member
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- MSP #654
mazdaspdprotege said:
You should be able to get a lower temp thermostat at any auto parts store (they're very common). They will probably ask you if you want OEM temp or lower.
The thermostat on almost every car is found by following the top radiator hose to the engine block. Once you take off the engine side of the radiator hose off, you should see the thermostat housing which is usually just held on by a few bolts. Take that off and then you'll see the OEM thermostat, take it out and put the new one in. (make sure you put the new one in, the same way the old one came out.) The new thermostat should come with a gasket. But if it doesn't just get some blue silicon gasket maker stuff.
I'd have to look at the bottle of WW, but I think one bottle is usually enough. I wouldn't run ONLY water and WW, but that is debateable. I would run about 30% coolant/70% water and one bottle of WW.
I haven't ran WW with only water. You may need more than one bottle in that case.
Wiggles422
Member
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- MSP #654
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp?productID=53&coolantFlash=1
Their website says that if it's not going to freeze it's okay to run only water and WW. Check out that flash demo.
Their website says that if it's not going to freeze it's okay to run only water and WW. Check out that flash demo.
MazdaSpeeder00
Member
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- MSP
What is WW?
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- 2003.5 Titanium Gray MSP #1699
WW = Redline Water Wetter...click the link: http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp?productID=53&coolantFlash=1MazdaSpeeder00 said:
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- 2003.5 Titanium Gray MSP #1699
Not in this threadmazdaspdprotege said:
