Coolent System Problems

jsweisx

Member
I have 2002 Mazda Protege5 2.0L. My wife was driving the car home from work when it began to overheat. I don't know the last time the coolant was replaced, but we bought the car 2 years ago so it's at least that old (I know that's stupid). I put a cleaner through and flushed the system several times until the water was clear. Later it overheated again. I checked the bottom radiator hose and it was cold so I replaced the thermastat. It overheated again. I noticed that the second fan only turned on when I put the AC on. Is that right? Or should both fans be working simultaneously? I'm going get a laser temperature censor later and check the radiator for cold spots. Has anyone had a problem like this?
 
Actually, has anyone had this problem. I replaced the thermostat (i assume the factory t-stat) that had a small hole in it. The new one from Napa didn't. I've read that the hole helps air bubbles pass through when you refill the coolant system and that you should drill a hole in it if there isn't one. The car goes from normal temp to the red pretty quick. Could it be air bubbles causing the trouble?
 
Does the coolant in the reservoir level change between cold and the overheat condition? Did the coolant blow out when it overheated?
After the fan comes on does it ever turn off? Does the heater work?

Some thermostats don't have the small hole, doesn't seem to make any difference. When the coolant is changed it's a good idea to run the car a few minutes with the fill cap off, let it start moving and replace the cap before it begins to flow out the filler neck.

You may have a bad heat sender. Try checking the coolant temperature with a thermometer, a low cost AC or cooking thermometer should work.

Check the lower radiator hose to see if it collapses when the engine is hot. Total water pump failure is rare, but sometimes the impeller blades will corrode away. Remove the bottom radiator hose and run water through the radiator, it should have good drain flow, unless the radiator tubes are clogged.

If all the above are OK find a radiator shop or a good garage and have the run a cooling system pressure check. They should be able to suggest what is causing the problem.

Clifton
 
whoa. i had a problem with my wifes car. she has a mazda 6 2.3. it turned out to be the water pump. switched it today and runs better. but i have to force it run faster. should i just switch out like the catalytic converters get a new exhaust system? soemone help. oh dude, first post, uh water pump might be the problem. anyone please pm me any info:D
 
such bad luck :( I had idle issue a few weeks ago and it still happened until Thursday when driving home and on the highway my car went to high temp. I went to the side of the road and turned off the engine. I drove home nevertheless which was probably bad. Now the car is in the shop, they said it's the radiator but I think it's probably the headgasket that also went. My first Mazda and I am having so much problem already. It's only been 2 months.
 
hey everyone, thanks for posting. Eventually I gave up diagnosing the problem myself and took it to a shop. The mechanic called with bad news: blown head gasket, warped header, and a melted radiator (but not leaking). I wish I knew if the car overheated because the head gasket blew or if the head gasket blew first and then the car overheated. Probably hard to tell at this point.
 
hey everyone, thanks for posting. Eventually I gave up diagnosing the problem myself and took it to a shop. The mechanic called with bad news: blown head gasket, warped header, and a melted radiator (but not leaking). I wish I knew if the car overheated because the head gasket blew or if the head gasket blew first and then the car overheated. Probably hard to tell at this point.

I'm willing to bet the overheat warped your head. Nothing personal against your wife, but people seem to think that when a car overheats they can just keep on driving. It only takes a few second to ruin an engine like this :(
 

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