COBB AP installed today

V

VRMS6

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2011 Kona Blue Ford Edge Sport
All I can say in a word is.......
OMGTHISTHINGFRACKENROCKS!!!11!!1!!!UNO11ONE11!!!!!!!!!!
Ordered on tuesday and it arrived today.
Packeged nicely and much smaller than a friends original V1 for his SUbaru. The screen is multi color and a nice size. Only dislike was the startup menu had a drawing of a Speed3 instead of a Speed6. Minor gripe but come on how long would it have taken to do a graphic of a Speed6???
Install was a breeze took all of 5 minutes. Took her out for a spin afterwords to a industrial park for a few pulls. Holy carp the car feels alive now. First gear pull is unbelievealbe. (drive2)
Even bone stock the AP makes a huge differfence in performance.
Had the AP plugged in on Live Data mode with a friend riding shotgun monitoring the display and we tracked peak boost 20.1 was the highest we saw!!!!!
Overall Im happy with the AP and would recommend it to anyone looking to wake their Speed6 up....
 
so you ran stage 1? 91 or 93 map? i am fully stage 2 right now and am seriously considering the AP...
 
My car is bone stock cept for a BOV and the SU test pipe. Im running stage 1 91 octane map. 93 octane map is not released yet I will use that map when it comes out as I only use 93 octane on my Speed6...
 
Are their any risks involved with this thing?? Ive got a test pipe / CAI / motor mount / forge bpv. Could it work with just those few mods? Knew a kid who blew a rod in his speed 6 because of a new engine chip he bought. This thing seems too good to be safe . . . could anyone offer a little insight please. Plug it in . . . gain 20 whp . . . doesn't seem right.
 
There's a risk with any aftermarket part really but I agree that a chip is likely the riskiest. The fact though is that the manufacturers build in a safety margin into their tunes so what these chips are doing is using up some of that safety margin for a gain in performance. They are being tuned to still be safe but no doubt that safety margin is thinner than it was before.

I always suggest that a way of monitoring key vitals is part of the process and that includes AFR, cylinder temps (or boosted air temps), & knock retard. It can be argued that a mis-step in AFR and temps will be translated into knock retard so I have a warning gauge set to go off when my knock retard goes to 4 (may drop that down to 3), but I will say this - my warning has yet to go off since the Cobb tune and I'm driving it harder than ever doing logs for Cobb as they fine-tune the map ... my warning would go off more often without a tune.

Additionally, I'd recommend a 1-step colder spark plug (Denso ITV22) if you get a tune. Piasini tuning recommends it and I personally think Cobb should as well. It's another safety measure to keep the cylinder temps in check.

Will all this 100% guarantee no blown motor? Absolutely not, but IMO I'm going to mitigate that chance as much as possible by doing the above.

HTH
 
Really appreciate the info. Im not really planning on doing too many modifications. Just the bolt ons. So far ive got CAI, forge bpv, test pipe, rear motor mount, shifter bushings. Im kind of reluctant to fool around with the boost. Im not very experienced and I want ot reach 300 whp as safely / reliably as possible. I haven't done a dyno but im sure im around the 300 whp ballpark. Just thinking of what I should get as my next mod. Keep in mind im sticking to bolt ons at least until my warranty is done. Dashhawk seems nice but I dont think i really need a boost gauge unless im messing with the boost. . . Maybe finishing the exhaust rear portion. Thats expensive for only a 2-3 whp if that difference. Im sure the test pipe helps more than the entire catback. The cobb AP seems like it would put me over 300 whp "safely" but i guess i would have to buy a few guages like you suggested. Can't wait for this TRZ TMIC to come out.Once again thanks for you input.
 
coyfish said:
Really appreciate the info. Im not really planning on doing too many modifications. Just the bolt ons. So far ive got CAI, forge bpv, test pipe, rear motor mount, shifter bushings. Im kind of reluctant to fool around with the boost. Im not very experienced and I want ot reach 300 whp as safely / reliably as possible. I haven't done a dyno but im sure im around the 300 whp ballpark. Just thinking of what I should get as my next mod. Keep in mind im sticking to bolt ons at least until my warranty is done. Dashhawk seems nice but I dont think i really need a boost gauge unless im messing with the boost. . . Maybe finishing the exhaust rear portion. Thats expensive for only a 2-3 whp if that difference. Im sure the test pipe helps more than the entire catback. The cobb AP seems like it would put me over 300 whp "safely" but i guess i would have to buy a few guages like you suggested. Can't wait for this TRZ TMIC to come out.Once again thanks for you input.
Click to expand...

Sorry man, but you are no where near 300 whp. Guys with full bolt-ons (short of upgraded turbos) and with tunes are barely near 300 hp.
 
ha about the speed3 showing up on the display. you know it changes to a speed6 after you flash your car.
 
I say get the dashhawk anyway. If you start messing around with this car, you would be surprised how handy those things get!

I'd say to finish off the exhaust go downpipe. And for probably the same price than the trz tmic, look at the group buy in my sig, fmic kit for under $800.

*You said you are peaking over 20psi, but where are you holding??
The reason I haven't turned up the boost yet or reflashed is (from what I've heard from the other forum) our stock turbo needs to make around 3 more psi than what our engine sees from our restrictive tmic. so for the engine to see 16psi, the turbo needs to make 19psi. Sustaining 20+ overheats our turbo quick and can lead to warping and damage. I think I've learned a lot, but more info keeps appearing!!! ;] Almost any aftermarket tmic or fmic is going to offer very little pressure loss, so if you want to see 16psi, you turbo only needs to spin at 16psi. I don't want to make more boost until I take care of this situation.
 
The group buy in your sig is for the speed3.... do you have any evidence it will fit on a speed6?
 
I would love the downpipe but im sticking to bolt ons at least until my warranty is up. Down pipes are too hard to install / uninstall. After I upgrade my intercooler ill pretty much have full bolt on mods in my car . . . except the catback exhaust. The FMIC is only good if your working some solid boost though right? Im still running stock boost so a FMIC will probably slow my car down if anything because of the extra turbo lag.
 
coyfish said:
I would love the downpipe but im sticking to bolt ons at least until my warranty is up. Down pipes are too hard to install / uninstall. After I upgrade my intercooler ill pretty much have full bolt on mods in my car . . . except the catback exhaust. The FMIC is only good if your working some solid boost though right? Im still running stock boost so a FMIC will probably slow my car down if anything because of the extra turbo lag.
Click to expand...

Incorrect. A fmic will make it easier on your turbo (instead of pushing upto 3psi extra for the motor to see if through the restricitive factory tmic) and many companies are making them now with very little turbo lag. I have heard even an intake and fmic make a plenty of power over stock. fmic is never a bad choice.... only if you get a huge core or try to run something like 3 inch pipe, then its a bad idea
 
Thanks for the info lestat but im still a bit confused. If what your saying is true then why is their still such a huge debate between the TMIC vs FMIC ??
 
coyfish said:
Thanks for the info lestat but im still a bit confused. If what your saying is true then why is their still such a huge debate between the TMIC vs FMIC ??
Click to expand...

Mainly because the fmic heatsoaks less. I am not sure that aftermarket tmics are going to have zero (or almost zero) pressure drop like a lot of fmics advertise. People go with aftermarket units to increase flow and cooling, but there is only so much cooling something can do while it sits on top of a hot engine

Also, tmic is stealthy and a lot easier to install/uninstall for dealer visits. To each his own, I love a mean fmic sticking out the front of my car ;)
 
Coyfish ... I love helping the new guys along but you should really do some searching as some of your q's are basic ones that have been dealt with.

I will answer this one though - the answer is no. An upgraded tmic's benefits are less pressure loss after the turbo's compresses your intake charge with a resultant decrease in temperature ... basically, a more efficient way of getting the air from the turbo to the throttle body.
 
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