Clutch pedal lost pressure behind it.

Well I was told the same thing about my stage1 so well find out but I haven't seen any good reviews of the stage3 and the pads on it like to break off
 
It's been 2 weeks since I've drivin my car, it's killing me. Hurry up and wait already!
 
It's all back together, I have clutch now. Now for the rear struts. Thanks again everyone.
 
The 6 puck will be a little weird to get used to, it grips quite a bit different than I'm used to. But I'm back on the road again. New rear struts too, dont think they helped much, but they are new none the less.
 
If I can get used to the 6 puck act stage 4 ( I think) and drive it in traffic you will do fine. Trick is when it starts grabbing give it more gas instead of releasing the clutch
 
My 6 puck stage 3 is a great clutch...just gets real heavy really quick in bumper to bumper traffic.
 
I like it already. and boy does it grab fast. I also replaced the struts, but it appears my springs are weak, the back end still rubs the tires when I hit a little bump or dip in the road.
 
Yah, I used a $100 set off of ebay. I was hoping they would get me by for a little while, prolong it about another 6 months till I can get tires. Which I will need by then. If this says anything though, I didn't even need a spring compressor to get change the shocks. I could compress the red springs with my fingers.
 
so you think the springs themselves are shot? I can't find any locally at salvage yard, so I'd have to order them online from somewhere.
 
Yah it wasn't doing that, just got the tranny out. The throwout bearing was hung up on the pressure plate and bent one of the springs inward. Bummer Deal. No wonder I didn't feel any pressure, It wasn't even trying to push the springs on the pressure plate.

what were some of the symptoms? i've lost pressure in the clutch pedal after bleeding it. i've had problems moving the shift lever into gear from a standstill, it required a massive amount of force. i found that bleeding the cylinder mitigates the issue so today i bled it again. after bleeding an entire 12oz bottle worth of brake fluid, the pedal had no pressure. it stuck to the floor. usually i can pump the clutch pedal several times and the pressure comes back, but not this time. i went to look at the slave cylinder and pushed the rod in and i could hear the pedal snap back into place. good or so i thought! i went back and found i still needed to pump the clutch pedal to build pressure. turned on the car but could not get into gear!

i also noticed after i pushed the rod back in the slave cylinder the rod did not return. there is also a ton of free play in all directions in the clutch fork. is that normal for the clutch fork? did you experience this as well? thanks
 
I recently had a similar problem with my Mazdaspeed 3 (2010). Driving along and suddenly the clutch pedal has 0 pressure and just springs to the floor when touched. The clutch was engaged, so i could not change gears when the engine was running.. (well you could slam shift it if really necessary I suppose.) Went into gear when the car was off. Anyway, after some troubleshooting and ripping the drivers side of the engine compartment apart to be able to see anything, I didn't find anything wrong. Pressure tests seemed fine. Tried bleeding the line with a pump.. anyway to make a long story short, it turns out the push rod had broken off from the clip that connects it to the clutch pedal. Sadly, I can't seem to locate the pushrod separately, so I'll have to replace the entire clutch master cylinder to fix it.
Why the hell is the push rod made of plastic. Great spot to cheap out :/

Anyway, I couldn't find anything on the web regarding similar issues. So I thought I would add to this thread another feasible explanation to the issue for the next poor bloke this happens to, lol.
 

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