Cheat Codes on MS3 for Maximum Boost?

Speedy3 said:
Found another one. Before turning on the ignition, hold down the DSC button. Turn on the ignition, wait a couple of seconds then let off the DSC button. Both the DSC Off and the Traction Control indicators stay lit until you press the DSC button again. I tried driving withe both lit and noticed traction control and DSC are disabled. The first one I posted (holding DSC for 10 seconds) doesn't disable DSC or Traction control, but doesn't allow you to toggle DSC anymore.

When I get a chance (and when the roads are dry), I will try both while logging Boost Pressure in 1st and 2nd gear.

Here's a list of notable qwerks:

1. With Ignition on, hold DSC for 10 seconds. DSC Light goes back off and stays off for the duration of ignition cycle. Cannot toggle DSC anymore.

2. With Ignition off, hold down the DSC button. Turn on the ignition, wait a couple of seconds then let off the DSC button. Both the DSC Off and the Traction Control indicators stay lit until you press the DSC button again.

i turned off the traction control by accident today, i thought the car was broke because the indicator was on and the car was not moving. Are you sure that indicator means the traction control is off. I noticed with the dsc off the indicator does not blink when you lose traction.
 
So DSC doesn't cover TC? I assumed without the DSC on you got full boost and they let you smoke the tires, the flashing light was just a reminder your wheels were spinning
 
You need to collect thirty intell pieces and beat the game on any difficulty to get the ultimate cheats. Or you can use R1, R2, L1, CIRCLE, LEFT, DOWN, RIGHT, UP, LEFT, DOWN, RIGHT, UP. I always use that after I get into an accident. Also, if you are speeding and you see a cop, use R1, R1, CIRCLE, R2, UP, DOWN, UP, DOWN, UP, DOWN.
 
in the 99+ mustangs there is a pretty complicated series of button presses to disable the seatbelt warning tone.
 
Apparently we have an answer:

You can get 100% boost in 1st and 2nd. Put the key in the ignition, hold the DSC button down, start the car, wait 2 seconds, then let go of the DSC button. This will disable the boost cut in 1/2, stability control, and traction control.

I'm too tired to try it tonight. Anyone game?
 
you guys forgot the most important part you have to splice an OBDII plug onto the PS2 controller to enter the codes haha
 
when my aeroforce gauge gets here ill let u know, iv ran the car w/ dsc/tc off and didn't notice much differnce other then the car will go all over the place when u launch, ull get a better 1/4 mile time because our car stops the power in order to regain control but i doubt u actually c full boost 1-2
 
Tried it and boost is still limited on boost gage. Both Stability control and traction control lights stay lit, but boost is still limited.
 
Hmm, guess I heard wrong. This does completely disable both DSC and TCS systems. Apparently you can't disable the 1/2 boost cut. Sad panda.

I'm sure there is a way to disable it. Mazda Engineers would have definitely programmed a way to test the car under full boost. Anyone know a Mazda Engineer?
 
well if the boost is declined based on wheel spin you may just need to wire up some resistors to the ABS sensor(im assuming thats what the ecu uses to tell the tires are being smoked in 1st and 2nd but i know very very little about the disi ecu).

Maybe make a dimmer switch to vary the resistance? Then you can control how much of a reading the abs sensor is outputting to the ecu? Sort of a home made traction control adjustment switch..

That would be my guess on how to do it. If the abs sensor is outputing "normal" voltage IE the same as the rear wheels, then the ecu shouldnt cut back the boost. Unless of course the ECU actually KNOWS what gear you are in and doesnt use things like the abs to calculate final boost pressure. in which case this entire post can be deleted lol

im sure ken would know ;)
 
but why would you want full boost in 1 and 2 anyways? You guys have 20psi slicks on and going to the track or something? Ive always argued that I would rather do my own power modulation via gas pedal during 1 and 2 to keep traction, but this seems like alot of work to undo a system that probably helps 95% of the ms3 drivers to get decent track times in the first place..
 
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