Cheapest way to check boost levels

Z-Indy

Member
:
2008.5 Mazdaspeed3 Black
I would like to be able to check the amount of boost I am getting, just to be sure that everything is working right in terms of the turbo and the BPV. I don't really feel like I need to constantly see the boost levels(In other words, I don't think I need a permanent hard wired boost gauge). Is there some cheap way to check that, or would it be best just to get a dashhawk or something? I know there are units that you can get to allow you to hook up your laptop to your ECU to see some readings, but I think the software to go along with those cables gets expensive too, and at that point it would probably be just as cost affective to get a Dashhawk.

I'm thinking about going the dashhawk route because if nothing else I can use it for a boost gauge, and for reading error codes that may pop up on this or our other vehicles.

Does that make sense? Any other suggestions? Anybody tried the laptop route?

Thanks.
 
Cheapest way? Borrow a dashhawk.

Other than that buy a cheap mechanical boost gauge from autozone/other autopart store and use it when you want it. Though you would have to route the lines inside the car and if you didn't want to have the gauge in the car all the time then you would have to stash the lines somewhere too.
 
Borrowing a dashhawk would be great, but I don't know anybody who has one in my area.

I suppose I could buy a used one, and then sell it. Probably get about the same amount back out of it.

Thanks.
 
An accurate mechanical gauge can be purchased at any auto parts store for less than half of that $80 price, and would make a good choice for someone who just wants to check boost once in a while.

The line can be "t"'d into the bpv hose, run through the firewall, and simply plugged at the "t" when not connected. You can even just temporarily duct tape the gauge to the windshield if you don't want to run the line through the firewall. You don't even need electricity unless you want to use it inside the car at night.
 
The issues with the mechanical ones, is they are known to vibrate, basically the needle fluctuate at idle even. It did for me. I sold it, got the electronic and it worked right since.
 
The issues with the mechanical ones, is they are known to vibrate, basically the needle fluctuate at idle even. It did for me. I sold it, got the electronic and it worked right since.

A slightly fluctuating needle at idle (presumably around -20 to -22 inches) is an accurate reading gauge and something good and reassuring to know, especially if engine rpm at idle is fluctuating too, which is not uncommon.

More than that degree of fluctuation or a different and higher reading (less vacuum) points to something that needs to be identified and resolved. These kinds of fine resolution analog readings can be seen instantly and really helpful in chasing down vacuum or boost leaks, among other things.

Electric sending units may not have the same resolution abilities and can come from the factory miscalibrated. Either type is good. I've just learned to put more trust in analog mechanical boost gauges and have found them to be more reliable.
 
Screw cheapest way. Have piece of mind and monitor all and buy a DashHawk. C'mon... you're already thinking of going that route anyways.
 
Back