Change your own oil?

[MetsBuff]

I just did my first oil change at 420 miles. Some thoughts...

The filter was WAY too hard to get off.

The oil was MUCH dirtier than I expected.

Anyone else run into these problems? The filter would be much easier to access if you could take off the plastic panel under the engine. But, that is too much work for a simple oil change. Also, the hole in this panel is too small and not centered on the filter. So, when you take off the drain plug for the filter, it just spills onto the panel. I'm thinking of cutting a larger hole in the panel.

Was anyone surprised at how dirty their oil was? I was afraid I was too early at 420 miles, but the oil was BLACK! I could not find any metal bits in the drain pan, but it really surprised me how dirty the oil was.

Also, what brand of oil do you use? I could only find Valvoline in 5W-20. What a strange viscosity...

Just wondering if anyone else ran into these problems and what you did about it. Will let you know how my 1000 mile change goes.

 

[canada3]

I guess ya never know what was going on that day at the factory?

I am changing mine at 1k which wouls put the car at about 4 weeks old...only at 250 now

 

[dugrant153]

I've heard that the oil filter is a catridge type.
someone care to elaborate on my behalf? I can't remember the details.

 

[wongpres]

I've heard that the oil filter is a catridge type.
someone care to elaborate on my behalf? I can't remember the details.

It's cartridge-type for the 2.3l and spin-on for the 2.0l. Although the block is the same, the 2.0l has an adaptor to allow the spin-on type. In theory, if one has a 2.3l and prefers a spin-on, all they have to do is get the adapter from the 2.0l (in fact, rumour has it that the 2.3l Mazda6's assembled in Japan have the spin-on type). Why Mazda did this, I have no idea.

Pictures are worth a thousand words, so take a look at the mid-to-bottom-right section of this diagram:

http://gcubed.sytes.net/gcubed/oilfilter.pdf

 

[canada3]

i cant open that pic can u do a jpeg image?

 

[dugrant153]

You'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader.

 

[mikethuan]

Hey what oil filter did you use? And what tool did you use to get the filter off? I thought the manual said you needed a special wrench or something. If its too much trouble i'll just take it to the jiffylub and have them take care of it at 600miles.

I just did my first oil change at 420 miles. Some thoughts...

The filter was WAY too hard to get off.

 

[taylor5]

Jiffy Lube?? Dont do it ...

Dude,

you let Jiffy Lube touch your car? I guess you did not see the expose' on PrimeTime Live about a bunch of them on the east coast really screwing up a wide variety of vehicles with stupid mistakes and charging for services never performed. Happened to a good buddy of mine too.

DONT DO IT MAN, DONT LET EM' TOUCH YOUR BABY.....

Unless you just happen to have a buddy at the particular one you go to and REALLY trust. That would be understandable.

 

[slyydrr]

Dude,

you let Jiffy Lube touch your car? I guess you did not see the expose' on PrimeTime Live about a bunch of them on the east coast really screwing up a wide variety of vehicles with stupid mistakes and charging for services never performed. Happened to a good buddy of mine too.

DONT DO IT MAN, DONT LET EM' TOUCH YOUR BABY.....

Unless you just happen to have a buddy at the particular one you go to and REALLY trust. That would be understandable.

I wouldn't let anyone at jiffy lube touch my car, except for the fact that a buddy of mine is a manager @ one, and can hook me up w/ free oil changes w/ whatever oil/filter i bring in... weee hawwww!

 

[NRRfrogmanP5]

the the filter is extreamly hard the first time and my oil and very dirty ad i changed mine after about 290 miles

 

[sigep]

So what you are saying, you can convert the cartridge type oil filter to the spin on oil filter with an adapter. You are Right....What was Mazda thinking! and is thier any benifit are better filtration with a cartridge? It looks like the cartridege is more of a mess when changing the oil. Are the cartridge oil filters more expensive. If I buy a Mazda 3 I will tell them to change to the spin on type before I buy!

It's cartridge-type for the 2.3l and spin-on for the 2.0l. Although the block is the same, the 2.0l has an adaptor to allow the spin-on type. In theory, if one has a 2.3l and prefers a spin-on, all they have to do is get the adapter from the 2.0l (in fact, rumour has it that the 2.3l Mazda6's assembled in Japan have the spin-on type). Why Mazda did this, I have no idea.

Pictures are worth a thousand words, so take a look at the mid-to-bottom-right section of this diagram:

http://gcubed.sytes.net/gcubed/oilfilter.pdf

 

[chinaman]

The first time you take off the oil filter it's very difficult. It's torqued on well from the factory. Afterwards you need only to hand-torque it. However, be sure to lube the rubber seals with a little bit of oil before you put the new one on.

 

[netranger6]

I just had mine drained and replaced at 605 miles from the dealer. Checked the oil, and it was very dirty/black. This is why I always, always break my new engines in properly, drain at 600, run harder and drain again at 1000. By the way, my local Jiffy Lube/Lube Express, all of 'em, nobody had the cartridge in stock for this engine. The dealer charged me $32.

 

[MetsBuff]

I had to go to the dealer and get a cartridge filter and 2 O-rings for $13.42.

The filter has its own little drain plug that you can take off with an allen wrench (I think it's like 7/32"). The stupid cartridge needs one of those cap wrenches, but it's some really strange size (like 72 mm) that no one carries. I managed to get it off with a regular strap wrench - just had to wrap it really tight around the cartridge! But, I just saw an adjustable cap wrench in the store and I think I will try it next time.

It's really not that bad with all the right tools. I can't believe the manual says to bring it into the dealership. Still, $13.42 for a filter is a total RIPOFF!

 

[goldwing2000]

It's really not that bad with all the right tools. I can't believe the manual says to bring it into the dealership. Still, $13.42 for a filter is a total RIPOFF!

You've never had to buy a motorcycle filter, have you? $13.42 isn't bad, actually.

You guys need to be careful what you use to remove the large filter nut. It's only plastic and the wrong tool may crush it.

Also, the large underbody panel isn't that hard to remove. There's only like 6 or 7 10mm-head bolts holding it in place. It comes off really easy. You don't want to get any spilled oil on it. Besides being messy, oil and plastic don't mix well.

 

[MetsBuff]

Maybe $13.42 isn't bad for a motorcycle filter, but it sure is a lot more than a $1.99 Fram.

Thanks for the advice on the large filter nut.

That underbody panel has 5-10 mm bolts, but also has 2 plastic pins at the front corners. How do you take those off without cracking something? I just cut a larger hole in the panel that is centered on the filter and now have easy access. I'm sure this is slightly less aerodynamic, but it beats spilling oil all over the panel or having to take it off every oil change.

By the way, I've driven another 100 miles since the first oil change and it is still so clean and clear, I have trouble reading it on the dipstick. Still can't believe how dirty the oil was the first time.

 

[goldwing2000]

Oh yeah... forgot about those. (crazy)

Plastic Pin removal: Get a small flat screwdriver and pop out the center portion. That's the lock. The rest of it will just fall out.

With regard to filters, these are more like bike filters than car filters, hence the cost comparison. It can definitely be a bit shocking the first time. You get used to it.

 

[goldwing2000]

Update:

Just bought two filters and the big o-ring for $14.60 plus tax. $5.56 for each filter and $3.48 for the rubber. MetsBuff, I think you got ripped off.

A word to the wise: you don't have to change the o-rings every time. Remove it carefully and inspect it closely. If it's not deteriorated, nicked or otherwise molested, it's fine to re-use. I bought the large one but didn't use it for the above reason. It's good to have them just in case, though.

Also, the "dirt" that people are seeing in the first oil change is more than likely molybdenum assembly lube that has washed through all the bearings and/or any number of additives that are meant to help the engine break in.

I wouldn't get too worked up about it.

 

[ZippityZoomZoom]

So...

1) Remove 5 10mm bolts and 2 pins to remove splash guard.

2) Drain oil from engine and cartridge assembly.

3) Remove cartridge with adjustable cap wrench (unknown size).

4) Replace cartridge filter (unknown part number) and O-ring making sure to lubricate O-ring with oil.

5) Firmly hand tighten cartridge filter assembly.

6) Refill with X quarts of oil. Run engine.

7) Check for leaks, clean up, replace splash guard.

Right?

 

[goldwing2000]

So...

1) Remove 5 10mm bolts and 2 pins to remove splash guard.

2) Drain oil from engine and cartridge assembly.

3) Remove cartridge with adjustable cap wrench (unknown size).

4) Replace cartridge filter (unknown part number) and O-ring making sure to lubricate O-ring with oil.

5) Firmly hand tighten cartridge filter assembly.

6) Refill with X quarts of oil. Run engine.

7) Check for leaks, clean up, replace splash guard.

Right?

Pretty close. You can remove the filter cap with a strap wrench, just be sure you don't get oil on the strap. And, as I stated earlier, you don't necessarily have to change the o-ring.

Most importantly, you probably won't be able to tighten the cap by hand. The o-ring gives too much resistance. You're better off getting the proper cap wrench and a torque wrench and tightening it to spec (the spec is printed around the rim of the cap). I really don't expect most people to do that but that would be the best way.

Amount of oil is 4.5 qts.

And I think there's 7 bolts and two pins. (thumb)