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- 2001 Pro 2.0 LX
thats why I put a "?" at the end of the post. I didn't put "!" did I? and that other post I posted cause of the way you responded.
CF turning yellow
- Thread starter mp3moose
- Start date
CrazyCaker
Member
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- '10 Stang GT / '06 Mazda5 GT
No need to argue guys. 
The clear coat is merely a way to help prevent the hazing from happening. You can use any clear coat safe detailing product or procedure on the CF. Products that offer additional UV protection would be the most beneficial.
The clear coat is merely a way to help prevent the hazing from happening. You can use any clear coat safe detailing product or procedure on the CF. Products that offer additional UV protection would be the most beneficial.
'87 Turbo II
Member
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- 1987 Mazda Rx-7 Turbo II
umm I think he's right. I don't own any CF products but I think in his application the resin is turning yellow. sand it and you litteraly have bare carbon fibers. No resin = no structural rigidity = blanket. Now I'm no wind tunnel expert but having a cloth hood may not be the best for drag. Also I doubt it would saty on. Now how about we all stop sounding high and mighty?vindication said:
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'87 Turbo II
Member
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- 1987 Mazda Rx-7 Turbo II
upon further reviewing, ForceFed was not actually rude. the "just stop, you seem not to have a clue" wasn't rude, apparently it was the truth, then you, vindication, snapped. He seemed to know the proccess of making, and caring for Caron Fiber. You really were giving advice based on generic hoods. I didn't see any forum rules here but on rx7club.com, you can get banned for giving out wrong info. Seeing as how your little mistake could've costed him $300+. Please, if you don't know, don't post an answer.
EDIT: and upon even FURTHER review, the question mark in your first post is invisible, and you're the only one who can see it. (note: his first post has not yet been edited, if you see an "edited by: vindication sometime after 2/28/06" then he changed it as to not lose the arguement)
EDIT: and upon even FURTHER review, the question mark in your first post is invisible, and you're the only one who can see it. (note: his first post has not yet been edited, if you see an "edited by: vindication sometime after 2/28/06" then he changed it as to not lose the arguement)
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- 2001 Pro 2.0 LX
prob around $400-600 depending on where you live and the shop. for a good job
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- 2001 Pro 2.0 LX
you might find it cheaper. I think I recall someone paying around $250-300 but not sure if it was whole hood or just the sides. also, places might be different. might be more expensive here in NY per say than in wherever mp3moose is from.
vindication said:
Your right. The guy I bought my old vis hood from paid $300 for the sides painted titanium professionally from a shop and it came out perfect. Thats not that bad. But you get what you paid for. I was offered from a guy for a $100 bucks that he would wet sand and repaint the hood to match my red p5. And I tell you what, it came out like s***. Drips in the paint near the front edge of the hood, You could tell he didn't wet sand and buff after painting. And I could feel the tape line too easily from the cf to the paint. Oh and the hood was off and looked more pink than red.
CrazyCaker
Member
- :
- '10 Stang GT / '06 Mazda5 GT
The quality of the clear coat also plays a huge factor. We only use PPG & DuPont clear coats on our products. I know that many other manufactures do not.
Hi, guys dont mean to chime in so late, but I have gained quite a bit of knowlege with carbon fiber. My hood, roof, and rearwing is Carbon fiber, the roof and wing are 2-3 years old and have never been waxed and neither are showing any yellowing. As for the roof, its made with a vinylester resin which is much more resistant to uv damage than polyester and epoxy resins.
Polyester resin is one of the most popular with many manufacturers because it is cheap, flexible and easy to work with, however it is not very chemically resistant, poor mechanical properties and is damaged by uv relatively quickly.
Epoxy resin is the strongest, very chemically resistant and more uv resistant than polyester resin, but is expensive and much more brittle than polyester resin (which is why you rarely see anything made out of straight epoxy, it always has some sort of aggregate or reinforcing fiber).
Vinylester resin, is not as strong as epoxy, but stronger than polyester. Its about as chemically resistant as epoxy and is more uv resistant than either epoxy or polyester. Its definitely more expensive than polyester close to epoxy, but its major down fall is its a b**** to work with, after it cures. Took my body guy almost 3 weeks of sanding with a DA sander (working 5-6) hours a day, to get it smooth.
OK with that said, the main reason none of my stuff has needed to be waxed is for this reason, They all have about 6 coats of a water white urethane clear with uv protectants added. Not all clears have uv protectants in them. Also most custom painters only apply 2-3 coats of clear. Most manufacturers only apply 1-2 coats of clear and they usually use the cheap stuff that doesnt have any uv protectants in them.
As for your carbon fiber hood. when its made it, generally a gelcoat is applied to the inside of the mold, once it starts to cure, the carbon fiber weave is applied and then resin applied to that, just like with any other fiberglass part. Actually there isnt much difference between carbon fiber and fiberglass, mainly its just the reinforcement material which is the carbon fiber or fiberglass. On structural parts the manufacturing is different mainly due to the fact that it takes more fiberglass material to equal the strength of the carbon fiber. Carbon fiber structual parts tend to get vacuum molded because there arent that many layups and on the thick layups they use pre-empregnated and heat cured. Whereas, fiberglass is hand laid or chopper gunned. You get a better, stronger part with vacuum molding than a regular hand layup, because you get a better resin to reinforcement ratio, resin is brittle, the fibers make it strong.
But back to the actual topic, depending on the age of the part and how long its been exposed to the elements and uv, most of the yellowing and cloadiness (the cloadiness is just pitting) you see is on the surface of the gelcoat/resin, it generally can be sanded, and buffed back to its original appearance well before you ever get the the actual fibers. Then recleared, hopefully with uv protectants and more coats than what the manufacturer did.
BTW good way to clear up foggy headlights on older cars, cut and buff with 3M compound and polish(3M products are worth the money, definitely get what you pay for there). The fogginess is usually due to pitting on the surface due to the elements and uv exposure.
Polyester resin is one of the most popular with many manufacturers because it is cheap, flexible and easy to work with, however it is not very chemically resistant, poor mechanical properties and is damaged by uv relatively quickly.
Epoxy resin is the strongest, very chemically resistant and more uv resistant than polyester resin, but is expensive and much more brittle than polyester resin (which is why you rarely see anything made out of straight epoxy, it always has some sort of aggregate or reinforcing fiber).
Vinylester resin, is not as strong as epoxy, but stronger than polyester. Its about as chemically resistant as epoxy and is more uv resistant than either epoxy or polyester. Its definitely more expensive than polyester close to epoxy, but its major down fall is its a b**** to work with, after it cures. Took my body guy almost 3 weeks of sanding with a DA sander (working 5-6) hours a day, to get it smooth.
OK with that said, the main reason none of my stuff has needed to be waxed is for this reason, They all have about 6 coats of a water white urethane clear with uv protectants added. Not all clears have uv protectants in them. Also most custom painters only apply 2-3 coats of clear. Most manufacturers only apply 1-2 coats of clear and they usually use the cheap stuff that doesnt have any uv protectants in them.
As for your carbon fiber hood. when its made it, generally a gelcoat is applied to the inside of the mold, once it starts to cure, the carbon fiber weave is applied and then resin applied to that, just like with any other fiberglass part. Actually there isnt much difference between carbon fiber and fiberglass, mainly its just the reinforcement material which is the carbon fiber or fiberglass. On structural parts the manufacturing is different mainly due to the fact that it takes more fiberglass material to equal the strength of the carbon fiber. Carbon fiber structual parts tend to get vacuum molded because there arent that many layups and on the thick layups they use pre-empregnated and heat cured. Whereas, fiberglass is hand laid or chopper gunned. You get a better, stronger part with vacuum molding than a regular hand layup, because you get a better resin to reinforcement ratio, resin is brittle, the fibers make it strong.
But back to the actual topic, depending on the age of the part and how long its been exposed to the elements and uv, most of the yellowing and cloadiness (the cloadiness is just pitting) you see is on the surface of the gelcoat/resin, it generally can be sanded, and buffed back to its original appearance well before you ever get the the actual fibers. Then recleared, hopefully with uv protectants and more coats than what the manufacturer did.
BTW good way to clear up foggy headlights on older cars, cut and buff with 3M compound and polish(3M products are worth the money, definitely get what you pay for there). The fogginess is usually due to pitting on the surface due to the elements and uv exposure.
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- 2001 Pro 2.0 LX
Reffoxel said:
thats what I was trying to get at before what's-his-name popped off at the lip. I just dont know what condition the hood is in and how old.
I am having the same problem moose. I was searching the houston-improts forum and found a post the recommended a product called tr-3. I am in the process of trying it right now. First I claybared the hood to remove oxidation etc, then I applied the tr-3. It has to cure for 2 hours. Then I will buff it out and see how it works. I will post results soon. I neglected to take before pics but if it looks good I will deff. take some after shots for you guys.
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- 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon, 2000 Miata
Mazdacub said:
that will get tiring and old.... fast
