i just installed my fmic,inlet,and intake.driving for like 5 mins my cel comes on.anyways,on wot the car automatically starts to studder if i was to let go of the gas and smash it back in.can it be the atp 3'' intake on a stock turbo.i also i used the soap and water trick on the pipes and noticed when my bro hits the gas bubbles will very slowy inflat.i havent got around to fix it,but can this adjustment make a dramtic differance of what its doing on higher rpms??
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cel after atp fmic,inlet,and intake
- Thread starter mike000g
- Start date
SFCSpectre
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 3
Sounds to me like there a pipe loose somewhere. After installing my FMIC I had a similar problem. Turns out one of my couplings popped off on my FMIC. Just wasnt tight enough. And I agree make sure the little rubber hose is plugged back in and secured with that crappy little metal clip.
SallySpeed3
Member
- :
- GT Mazdaspeed3, Cosmic Blue
Another reason I like to do one mod at a time. Let the car learn what has just happened to it. A full intake AND a FMIC at once is a huge change from the stock set-up. It's most likely that it's just a loose coupler or something similar like mentioned above. If you check and everything looks tight but it's still happening I would reccomend putting the stock intake back on for at least 100 miles so that the car can slowly adjust fuel trims and what not.
SFCSpectre
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 3
thanks for the responses,i notice as well the boost solenoid is stretched to almost a 90 degree angle.and i forgot to mention my bov is vented to the atmosphere .im sure that is messing with it too.on saturday im gonna adjust everything,and reset the ecu.and go from there.
BOV vented to atmo shouldnt have any effect on this. Now the tubing being stretched may be creating a leak or is blocked by the 90 degree bend in the tubing.
BOV vented to atmo shouldnt have any effect on this. Now the tubing being stretched may be creating a leak or is blocked by the 90 degree bend in the tubing.
It could have an effect. Many people get cel's from VTA. I think the best way to fix the problem is to have the damn CEL checked lol . . . Get it done fore free at autozone or something.
i just installed my fmic,inlet,and intake.driving for like 5 mins my cel comes on.anyways,on wot the car automatically starts to studder if i was to let go of the gas and smash it back in.can it be the atp 3'' intake on a stock turbo.i also i used the soap and water trick on the pipes and noticed when my bro hits the gas bubbles will very slowy inflat.i havent got around to fix it,but can this adjustment make a dramtic differance of what its doing on higher rpms??
Do you have the ATP 3" MAF housing?
If so, how are you compensating for it (i.e. what tuning solution are you using)?
3" MAF housing without tuning = MIL (and possibly a blown engine).
Last edited:
could be but you shouldn't be having that problem with an intake...
The MAF housing is 3 inches (which is guaranteed to turn on the MIL).
ok i reseted the ecu.ran perfectly fine with no leaks,so i took it to the next step and floored the car,now at idle the car seems it wants to shut off,wants again i hooked it up the computer im getting error p0304(cylinder 4 misfire)and p2187(to lean on idle).so with the motor running i put pressure on the intake with my hands the car idles fine.with atp intake its lays over the bov so im assuming i have a gasket leak on the bov
I think I can help through a pm. But be forewarned, I may be a bit blunt about making too many mods which appear to be incompatable and/or inconsistent with working in coordination with each other.
These cars do not respond to mods the same way as recommendations you may be getting from friends with other rides. And even conventional thinking about mod compatability has frustrated even experienced fwd turbo guys who have been messing with cars like this for years.
The combination of our very, very sophisticated ECU, the high pressure direct fuel injection, the relatively high boost/compression ratio combination, and the MAF metering has produced a pretty steep learning curve on what mods do and how they can work against each other.
I can offer specifics by pm, but generally speaking, let me offer these humble suggestions (this will take a while):
These are personal opinions, and others here I respect may disagree, but they are informed opinions.
1. Forget about recommendations from friends who do not have this platform.
2. Forget about your own experiences from other platforms you may have owned in the past, unless they can be confirmed by experienced users here or at other good forums for this car.
3. Move away from an emphasis on appearance or sound oriented mods and focus first on mods with proven power potential that work together in harmony. You can improve appearance and sound only if you have your car running well first.
4. Focus on modest changes, made sequentially, rather all at once, with a goal that balances increased intake flow AND increased exhaust side flow that can operate within the limits of the K04 turbo and your ECU.
Having said those things, consider this.
5. Running a 3 inch MAF housing is an absolute no-no on stock tune, and probably on any tune for the K04 turbo. You are just screwing up the MAF sensor's ability to correctly meter air mass and send a valid signal to the ECU. It will probably result in confusing the hell out of the ECU with erratic swings in AFR from rich to super lean (read: zoom, zoom, boom).
6. Running VTA is only going to further confuse your ECU. Your MAF has already sent a false reading to the ECU on what fuel needs to be added to the air when the injectors fire. By running VTA, you are discharging to atmosphere air that has already been dedicated by your ECU to be going into the engine. This makes an already pig rich engine run even richer during shifts and produces some significant drivabilitiy issues for MAF controlled ECU engines.
So, at this point, I'm recommending that you return to stock MAF housing diameter and that you run whatever BOV or BPV in full recirc mode. The stock valve works amazingly well and has come to be preferred by many guys who have heavily bolted cars and are competitively racing them with success.
7. Why the FMIC at this point in your modding? Eye candy? Beyond a simple intake, either SRI or CAI, the next thing to logically consider is to uncork the exhaust restrictions so that the engine can actually use the extra air you are introducing (assuming it is properly metered and it all gets to the combustion chambers rather than being released to atmosphere). Instead, it would make sense to uncork the major restrictions in the exhaust, and they are not in the CBE. It flows better than the output capabilities of the K04 turbo. At a minimum, install a test pipe. It will get you far more improvement than the FMIC at your level of mods. Better yet, install a catted or catless downpipe/rp combo. When coupled with a good intake, this combo really wakes this engine up.
I do not find heat soak to be a significant problem for the TMIC on this engine at the flow rates for the K04. While you might drop temps a few degrees, you are contributing to turbo lag all the time in exchange for a little cooler BAT only some of the time under circumstances where heat soak actually occurs. Bigger turbo, yes, higher flow IC. Much more aggressive tune, yes, bigger IC.
8. My next recommendation is to do mods one at a time with some drive time in between to assess what is going on and to make sure the install went well, because it becomes very difficult to trouble shoot and fix when several changes were made at once. I know we get excited and anxious to improve our cars, and it is very tempting to fill the shopping cart up with goodies and play with them all at the same time, like Christmas morning. But to build power, to insure correct install, to make sure mods are compatable and your modding is all heading for improvement, going slow and deliberately is much better.
9. Final recommendation is to spend a little money on some monitoring tools. At a minum you must have a boost gauge with both vacuum and boost capabilities. You have to know what you are doing. You need a scan tool (with data display and OBD2 code reader) or preferably a DashHawk or similar device. Otherwise you are working blind and will join the zoom, zoom, boom club if you go much further. You should consider having some type of time, speed, distance measuring device. Even a simple $30 stop watch will let you do 60-100 mph pulls before and after mods and tell you if you are getting gains or not.
YOU SHOULD NOT GET YOUR CAR TUNED IN ITS PRESENT CONDITION, IMHO. Any tuner that would attempt to do so, is not someone I would trust. You need to fix the mismatched and incompatable mods first, get some monitoring equipment, learn how to use it and spend a lot of time on this and other boards getting educated on the strange behavior our particular engine has when presented with mods that might otherwise make sense.
Sorry if I have been too tough or have offended. That is not my intention. I just feel you need to approach your problem with your eyes open to the fact that you made some less than optimal choices with mods, put them all together at once and think that a tune will solve the problem.
PM for more info/insight if interested. I'm no expert, but I've been modding and racing since 1969 (yes, that is not a misprint) and most of the last 20 years has been modding boosted fwd platforms of several different models. This car is not like anything I've ever experienced and it bothers me to see well-intended guys start out on what I think experience suggests might be the wrong foot.
These cars do not respond to mods the same way as recommendations you may be getting from friends with other rides. And even conventional thinking about mod compatability has frustrated even experienced fwd turbo guys who have been messing with cars like this for years.
The combination of our very, very sophisticated ECU, the high pressure direct fuel injection, the relatively high boost/compression ratio combination, and the MAF metering has produced a pretty steep learning curve on what mods do and how they can work against each other.
I can offer specifics by pm, but generally speaking, let me offer these humble suggestions (this will take a while):
These are personal opinions, and others here I respect may disagree, but they are informed opinions.
1. Forget about recommendations from friends who do not have this platform.
2. Forget about your own experiences from other platforms you may have owned in the past, unless they can be confirmed by experienced users here or at other good forums for this car.
3. Move away from an emphasis on appearance or sound oriented mods and focus first on mods with proven power potential that work together in harmony. You can improve appearance and sound only if you have your car running well first.
4. Focus on modest changes, made sequentially, rather all at once, with a goal that balances increased intake flow AND increased exhaust side flow that can operate within the limits of the K04 turbo and your ECU.
Having said those things, consider this.
5. Running a 3 inch MAF housing is an absolute no-no on stock tune, and probably on any tune for the K04 turbo. You are just screwing up the MAF sensor's ability to correctly meter air mass and send a valid signal to the ECU. It will probably result in confusing the hell out of the ECU with erratic swings in AFR from rich to super lean (read: zoom, zoom, boom).
6. Running VTA is only going to further confuse your ECU. Your MAF has already sent a false reading to the ECU on what fuel needs to be added to the air when the injectors fire. By running VTA, you are discharging to atmosphere air that has already been dedicated by your ECU to be going into the engine. This makes an already pig rich engine run even richer during shifts and produces some significant drivabilitiy issues for MAF controlled ECU engines.
So, at this point, I'm recommending that you return to stock MAF housing diameter and that you run whatever BOV or BPV in full recirc mode. The stock valve works amazingly well and has come to be preferred by many guys who have heavily bolted cars and are competitively racing them with success.
7. Why the FMIC at this point in your modding? Eye candy? Beyond a simple intake, either SRI or CAI, the next thing to logically consider is to uncork the exhaust restrictions so that the engine can actually use the extra air you are introducing (assuming it is properly metered and it all gets to the combustion chambers rather than being released to atmosphere). Instead, it would make sense to uncork the major restrictions in the exhaust, and they are not in the CBE. It flows better than the output capabilities of the K04 turbo. At a minimum, install a test pipe. It will get you far more improvement than the FMIC at your level of mods. Better yet, install a catted or catless downpipe/rp combo. When coupled with a good intake, this combo really wakes this engine up.
I do not find heat soak to be a significant problem for the TMIC on this engine at the flow rates for the K04. While you might drop temps a few degrees, you are contributing to turbo lag all the time in exchange for a little cooler BAT only some of the time under circumstances where heat soak actually occurs. Bigger turbo, yes, higher flow IC. Much more aggressive tune, yes, bigger IC.
8. My next recommendation is to do mods one at a time with some drive time in between to assess what is going on and to make sure the install went well, because it becomes very difficult to trouble shoot and fix when several changes were made at once. I know we get excited and anxious to improve our cars, and it is very tempting to fill the shopping cart up with goodies and play with them all at the same time, like Christmas morning. But to build power, to insure correct install, to make sure mods are compatable and your modding is all heading for improvement, going slow and deliberately is much better.
9. Final recommendation is to spend a little money on some monitoring tools. At a minum you must have a boost gauge with both vacuum and boost capabilities. You have to know what you are doing. You need a scan tool (with data display and OBD2 code reader) or preferably a DashHawk or similar device. Otherwise you are working blind and will join the zoom, zoom, boom club if you go much further. You should consider having some type of time, speed, distance measuring device. Even a simple $30 stop watch will let you do 60-100 mph pulls before and after mods and tell you if you are getting gains or not.
YOU SHOULD NOT GET YOUR CAR TUNED IN ITS PRESENT CONDITION, IMHO. Any tuner that would attempt to do so, is not someone I would trust. You need to fix the mismatched and incompatable mods first, get some monitoring equipment, learn how to use it and spend a lot of time on this and other boards getting educated on the strange behavior our particular engine has when presented with mods that might otherwise make sense.
Sorry if I have been too tough or have offended. That is not my intention. I just feel you need to approach your problem with your eyes open to the fact that you made some less than optimal choices with mods, put them all together at once and think that a tune will solve the problem.
PM for more info/insight if interested. I'm no expert, but I've been modding and racing since 1969 (yes, that is not a misprint) and most of the last 20 years has been modding boosted fwd platforms of several different models. This car is not like anything I've ever experienced and it bothers me to see well-intended guys start out on what I think experience suggests might be the wrong foot.
Last edited:
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