Can't figure this one out!

[mazdarichie]

Ok I changed the lines so far just from the intake manifold down to the T and to the bypass valve and down to the WGA. Same problem. If I clamp off the vacuum line below the T just to the WGA it will pick up to about 20 inches of vacuum. If I take the clamp off it drops back to 14 inches. If I clamp off the bypass valve only there is no change at all.

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

So the leak is somewhere else..

Keep Looking.

 

[Spiced MSP]

wouldn't the WGA be the issue if the car gains vacuum by clamping the line to the actuator? If there is no change in idle or vacuum clamping any other lines but that one lines changes idle and vac, the only thing it could be is the actuator, am I right?

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

He said he tested it...

 

[Spiced MSP]

He said he tested it...

yeah but wouldn't you think the same thing? If you could clamp every line one by one with no luck; and all of a sudden you clamp the line to the WGA and gain vacuum. Is there anything that could be used to hold a vacuum on the actuator and monitor vacuum with a gauge to rule it out other than blowing on it? I know blowing on it is the common method on here but considering the circumstances, it seems to still be a possibility.

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Perhaps is leaks under Vac, but seals under pressure.

 

[Spiced MSP]

bingo..lol

 

[mazdarichie]

Yeah I'm thinking it's still the WGA. I just bypassed it with a hose and ran it straight to the bypass valve to see how it works. With the WGA not hooked up at all the car is holding 21 inches of vacuum at idle. That's got to be the problem.

 

[Spiced MSP]

definitely the problem...I FREAKING LOVE THIS FORUM!!! PROBLEM SOLVING AT IT'S BEST!! lol. Ok, Im done

 

[mazdarichie]

Just finished changing the WGA. Vacuum is at about 21 inches now. I think I may have finally figured this out. Too bad I never tried a vacuum gauge to look for a leak in the first place. Took longer than I thought it would take to change it. That little clip on the wastegate that had to come off was a pain. Gave me trouble going back on too. But, It all went back together finally. Took it out for a drive and it seemed to run fine. Hope it stays that way!

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Win

 

[Maiello169]

I'm troubleshooting for the CEL P0171 , cleaned the MAF, O2 sensors have all been replaced in the last 6 months , was going to put new vac lines in anyways wich might help if there is a vac leak . Not sure on the sizes of them though, other than one is 3/16 correct ? And does it matter what vac line I tap off of for the BOV ? I have it off the main one that conects to the purge silonoid , wasn't sure if that would be an issue with why I'm getting that code ... I also tryed the blow in the vac line on the WGA and im not sure it im not supose to not be able to at all or if some air can go through it, i couold hear air comming out of the other end from where i was blowing from ....

 

[Spiced MSP]

you aren't supposed to hear anything

 

[im2bad4ya]

Just finished changing the WGA. Vacuum is at about 21 inches now. I think I may have finally figured this out. Too bad I never tried a vacuum gauge to look for a leak in the first place. Took longer than I thought it would take to change it. That little clip on the wastegate that had to come off was a pain. Gave me trouble going back on too. But, It all went back together finally. Took it out for a drive and it seemed to run fine. Hope it stays that way!

I just went through three engines this past month, and I can say that this last one is good to go, except I'm running lean and also got the dreaded P0171 code. All my vac lines are good and though I have a hair line crack in my exhaust manifold, I've sealed it up to make sure I have no exhaust leaks (I'll get a new one eventually but just put the sealant for troubleshooting purposes). I have a boost/vac gauge and a O2 wideband so I know I'm running leeeeeeaan. I wanted to know if you had the same symptoms as me. When the car idles initially I get a vac reading of about 20-18 and a pretty high A/F ratio of around 16.5-18 While still at idle as it goes into it's second idle cycle and subsequent cycles I completely lean out and vacuum jumps to 16-15. Just wanted to know if that's what you experienced. Aside from the new engine and all new parts, I've changed out almost all the solenoids, O2 sensor and was about to change my fuel pump and fuel filters. But I'd get a forged WGA if that's it. Don't mean to jack the thread, but we have the same problem, so just wondering if you had the same symptoms.(lurk)


EDIT: Don't know if it makes a difference, but when I connected the WGA to my vacuum block, I only got 15 HG In of vacuum, when I went directly to the top of the intake manifold it goes back to 20-18 range. My BOV goes to my vacuum block though and whether it's on that block or tee'd off the WGA, vacuum doesn't change.

 

[Maiello169]

Yeah I deffinetly could hear air coming out when I blew into the vac line . I'm guessing your not supose to he able to blow/force any air through it are you ? So that could be why I'm getting the P0171 .. where could I get an oem WGA ? And are they hard to swop out ?

 

[Spiced MSP]

no air should blow through. Don't get an OEM actuator, get the ATP replacement. It's around 65 bucks at ATP turbo

 

[Maiello169]

Is this it http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...p&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-011B&Category_Code=WGT

 

[Spiced MSP]

yup

 

[Maiello169]

Okay cool, hope this is the reason for the P0171 and solves that issue , thanks . Would that be why im only getting avg. around 225 miles per full tank as well ?

 

[im2bad4ya]

no air should blow through. Don't get an OEM actuator, get the ATP replacement. It's around 65 bucks at ATP turbo

*SIGH!* I'm a little relieved, I blew into the WGA and air was going through. I think I found my culprit! I'd be skeptical to think it was the fuel pump and filters, though now I have those as spares or could sell them on the marketplace to recoup some money. Anyhow, I already ordered a replacement WGA and hope this gets my car going good once and for all.