Cams are in.

[DiscreetSpeed]

just checking but make sure you have the cams in the right place..i mean it could have been overlooked and slapped the intake one on the exhaust side and vice versa.

 

[DiscreetSpeed]

im guessing theres you checked everything else?

 

[Paul]

just checking but make sure you have the cams in the right place..i mean it could have been overlooked and slapped the intake one on the exhaust side and vice versa.

i did them right. i left the intake cam in the box just how i got it and did the exhaust first. then i did the intake. i know 110% that they are on the correct sides

 

[wicked]

can you leak down test?it'll show if you bent any valves

 

[xfaradx]

If all else fails try putting your stock cams back in and see if it fires. Talk to phil about it.

 

[Paul]

i'm going to play w/ the timing to see if i can get it set right first. i'm really hoping it's something stupid like that. stock cams would be the last resort

 

[Dexter]

maybe you shoud try the stock cams again to make sure there arent any ****** up sensors or something

 

[stdntDrvr]

to set your time...I and E (i think) on the cam gears...two should be at 12:00 and the other two should be facing each other...when at top dead center...there's a thing you can read it by above your crank pulley...you've gotta look down under the hood to see it...it'll show you where top dead center is...just turn the crank until you're there.

and i thought i ****** my car up when i took my cams out...holy s***. i was off by 1 tooth on the intake side and forgot the cam seals (lost all of my oil)...your car sounds ****** up.

i also put them in wrong at first...the intake cam goes at the BACK of the motor...close to the firewall...the exhuast is at the front.

 

[Kooldino]

Did you follow the HOW-TO on cams on this site?

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

JDm cams are not the best for F/I. They have more overlap than the stockers.

 

[Paul]

^so am i going to loose power w/ these cams?
so what do u recommend? just the jdm intake cam?
topher-
i had it all lined up. now that i think about it, maybe the intake might have been off 1 tooth. i'll let u guys know an update.

 

[Dexter]

paul, thats what i had posted in your other thread. blkzoomzoom and focus said they weren't very gofd for F/I but installshield2 said it would be a good mod to move the powerband up...or sometihng like that.

 

[Paul]

that's what i remember reading was that it moves the powerband up. Which is cool w/ me. As long as i have a smooth powerband and don't loose horse then i don't have anything to loose

 

[wicked]

more overlap,allows for less boost to actually get into and stay in the combustion chamber.

it wroks well for N/A,because it helps remove more exhaust,when the exhaust side does close,it causes more intake are to get stuck in the combustion chamber.

adjustable cam gears would help this out,but you would have to spend time on the dyno to get them right.

 

[Aricjm15]

there is not much overlap with these at stock timing

 

[Paul]

well i took the valve cover off tonight and did some looking around. the 2 timing marks dont' seem to be where they were before. Now i know that i tried to turn the motor over but if they were origonally at 3 oclock and 9 oclock shouldn't they both move in sequence?
now it looks like that the intake is at 10 oclock and the exhaust is at 3 oclock.
someone let me know if that's normal.
on that note, i had someone crank the motor while i looked at it and i noticed that something is wrong w/ my crank pulley. when the motor cranks the pulley wobbles...a lot.
so maybe i didn't get it to sit far enough in. either way that's gotta come off then put back on. Could this be the only problem?

 

[Aricjm15]

well i took the valve cover off tonight and did some looking around. the 2 timing marks dont' seem to be where they were before. Now i know that i tried to turn the motor over but if they were origonally at 3 oclock and 9 oclock shouldn't they both move in sequence?
now it looks like that the intake is at 10 oclock and the exhaust is at 3 oclock.
someone let me know if that's normal.
on that note, i had someone crank the motor while i looked at it and i noticed that something is wrong w/ my crank pulley. when the motor cranks the pulley wobbles...a lot.
so maybe i didn't get it to sit far enough in. either way that's gotta come off then put back on. Could this be the only problem?

the crank pully also has the crank position teeth on it, if those are gayed the ECU will not know where the crank is, thus gayness, fix the crank pully and make sure ALL of the teeth are ok, none of them should be bent, the spot where it looks like one may be missing, its supposed to be like that, but it SHOULD NOT WOBBLE

 

[Captain KRM P5]

LinuxRacr runs these cams on his turbo protege at 10psi on a T3 and the overlap does not negatively affect the car or the powerband

 

[Paul]

the crank pully also has the crank position teeth on it, if those are gayed the ECU will not know where the crank is, thus gayness, fix the crank pully and make sure ALL of the teeth are ok, none of them should be bent, the spot where it looks like one may be missing, its supposed to be like that, but it SHOULD NOT WOBBLE

what's odd i know for a fact that i liked the key hole up when i put the pulley back on. i remember that it didn't go on very far though but i didn't think anything of it (bang)

 

[Aricjm15]

what's odd i know for a fact that i liked the key hole up when i put the pulley back on. i remember that it didn't go on very far though but i didn't think anything of it (bang)

that needs to be torqued down to about 150 ft/lbs, it should slide on pretty easy, make sure the washer is still there, take off the pasenger wheel and the cover so you can get to it easy, put the car in reverse and have a friend mash on the brakes as hard as they can while you tq it down