Built engine - what oil are you using and why?

[Jaleik]

Since I'm on my second build and have not switched to synthetic yet I was curious to see what engine oil people are using.

I am tempted to try Brad Penn 10w30 or 10w40 but I know a lot of built cars such as EVOs use 20w50, especially in high revving engines. Anyone use oil that heavy?

If you also have a built transmission with PAR gear.. what oil are you using? I currently use motul 75w90 but I was thinking about trying redline 75w90NS as its GL5 (and cheaper).

 

[thuzil]

I use shell rotella t6 5w40. Stands up nice and I seem to think there is less noise from the forged internals.

The non synthetic rotella is 15w40 I think.

 

[ap123]

Im using 10w30 Amsoil signature series.
- Began using it 1000miles after my build. I heard multiple recommendations so i decided to give it ago. After i switched i loved it mainly b/c it really quieted the engine during warm up. Its also very convenient b/c when used with their filter its 1 year oil change intervals.
I used 10w30 b/c i used standard size bearings.

People that use 20w50 build the engine with much larger bearing clearances which is recommend for high revving engines.


-In my stock transmission, i have 75w90 amsoil in it at the moment its ok. I had gm synchromesh in it before i liked that better ill probably switch back next year. The synchromesh made shifts feel a little bit more crisper and smoother. But i have no clue what would work best with a built transmission.

 

[Jaleik]

Im using 10w30 Amsoil signature series.
- Began using it 1000miles after my build. I heard multiple recommendations so i decided to give it ago. After i switched i loved it mainly b/c it really quieted the engine during warm up. Its also very convenient b/c when used with their filter its 1 year oil change intervals.
I used 10w30 b/c i used standard size bearings.

People that use 20w50 build the engine with much larger bearing clearances which is recommend for high revving engines.


-In my stock transmission, i have 75w90 amsoil in it at the moment its ok. I had gm synchromesh in it before i liked that better ill probably switch back next year. The synchromesh made shifts feel a little bit more crisper and smoother. But i have no clue what would work best with a built transmission.

Yeah I used the oem clearances and I think most people with fs-de's do too. I was wondering if anyone switched to a higher weight oil.

 

[tweety2300]

Most people switch to higher weight to reduce noise and keep from burning/ leaking a lot. You can run any weight you want but if you're not turning over high rpms stick to 5 or 10w30. I run royal purple in most of my stuff everything else has gotten mobile 1 or if it went through a lot like my protege did it gets penzoil since it pretty much always had fresh oil anyway

 

[malcantry]

your not supposed to run any synthetics on a new engine. first 5k miles at least

lower weight colder weather imo. im in houston and its already hot as hell so my oil doesnt need any loss in thickness :X i use a 10-30

 

[Gabi]

Like stated previously it depends on your bearings. As far as transmission fluid I'm running the new manual transmission fluid from Honda. So far so good. Smooth as butter. I've only had it in for about 1000 miles. I'll keep you posted. I plan to change it every third oil change which I do every 3500-4000 miles.

 

[Ice88]

Im using 10w30 Amsoil signature series.
- Began using it 1000miles after my build. I heard multiple recommendations so i decided to give it ago. After i switched i loved it mainly b/c it really quieted the engine during warm up. Its also very convenient b/c when used with their filter its 1 year oil change intervals.
I used 10w30 b/c i used standard size bearings.

People that use 20w50 build the engine with much larger bearing clearances which is recommend for high revving engines.


-In my stock transmission, i have 75w90 amsoil in it at the moment its ok. I had gm synchromesh in it before i liked that better ill probably switch back next year. The synchromesh made shifts feel a little bit more crisper and smoother. But i have no clue what would work best with a built transmission.

Certainly not on FS engines, cant see how larger tolerances in general is a good thing on any engine.

You want as tighter tolerances as you can get when it comes to the rod/bearing supply to try get good lubrication at higher RPM so you dont generate excessive wear.

Yeah I used the oem clearances and I think most people with fs-de's do too. I was wondering if anyone switched to a higher weight oil.

You mean the cold weight? No real need.

Like stated previously it depends on your bearings. As far as transmission fluid I'm running the new manual transmission fluid from Honda. So far so good. Smooth as butter. I've only had it in for about 1000 miles. I'll keep you posted. I plan to change it every third oil change which I do every 3500-4000 miles.

Good way to think of it is to change oil every 6-7 tanks. That way if your just cruising your not replacing oil that's had a largely easy life. If your giving it alot of poke then temps etc etc.

 

[Gabi]

^ that's an interesting way to go about oil changes. I drive 90-95% freeway with no stop and go traffic and the other 5-10% city driving with stop and go. I use valvoline vr1 synthetic 10-30. I know 3500-4000 miles is overkill but the motor has 163k miles so I try to keep fresh oil in it as much as possible.

 

[J_Naoto]

i run 20w-50 in the summer and 10w-40 in the winter, mainly because of low oil pressure issues. for the trans (par 3rd & 4th), i'm using motul gear 300 75w-90. i've used neo synthetic 75w-90hd in the past and didn't notice a difference between the two.

 

[Perro del Sol]

I run T6, 10W-40W in mine, because I track my car. with the DOC B Oil Pump fix and the relocation kit has worked well for me. My oil pressure is a lot better and with the AWR Oil Pan, the motor is holding up well!

 

[TURBOJ1]

Using Brad Penn 10w30 for break in, so far so good....Been thinking about using CASTROL after break in. Definitely won't be using MOBIL 1 after reading up on various forums. I''ve been looking into what car manufactures use on the production TURBO cars as a reference.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Several manufacturers run and recommend Mobil in their FI engines. There is a lot of heresay about oil on the internet, I have never had a problem running mobil 1.

 

[brandini]

Im using 10w30 Amsoil signature series.
- Began using it 1000miles after my build. I heard multiple recommendations so i decided to give it ago. After i switched i loved it mainly b/c it really quieted the engine during warm up. Its also very convenient b/c when used with their filter its 1 year oil change intervals.

Built engines (read: non-stock) are not included in extended drain recommendations from Amsoil. I'd recommend oil analysis to see if it's holding up as you're hoping. Get the first at 5k and work up from there.

Source: I'm a certified dealer.

(1) Engines operating under modified conditions (non-stock) are excluded from extended drain recommendations. Examples include the use of performance computer chips; non-OEM approved exhaust, fuel or air induction systems; and the use of fuels other than those recommended for normal operation by the manufacturer.

On the product listing for signature series oil: here

 

[Jaleik]

Built engines (read: non-stock) are not included in extended drain recommendations from Amsoil. I'd recommend oil analysis to see if it's holding up as you're hoping. Get the first at 5k and work up from there.

Source: I'm a certified dealer.

On the product listing for signature series oil: here

I couldn't change my oil once a year regardless.. wouldn't seem right to me.

 

[brandini]

I'd recommend it in naturally aspirated port injection engines, but beyond that I'd still check with a UOA. Amsoil warranties it's performance so if you're following instructions and you have an oil related failure they pay. That and UOAs like this are just impressive: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3127456&page=1

 

[ap123]

Built engines (read: non-stock) are not included in extended drain recommendations from Amsoil. I'd recommend oil analysis to see if it's holding up as you're hoping. Get the first at 5k and work up from there.

Source: I'm a certified dealer.

On the product listing for signature series oil: here

Good to know.
I haven't had this oil in it that long only about 2k, the first time I changed the amsoil and the filter was at about 4K because i put in a new turbo, just looking at the oil it looked really clean. But this time around i was planning on leaving it in there until i didn't like what i saw on the dip stick or the year came around... I check my oil visually on the monthly or 3 weeks to make sure it still has a nice gold bronze color.

Where do you get the oil analyzed and how much does it cost? seams a bit over board but im defiantly curious if this oil is really worth the extra money.

A buddy of mine with an Evo uses amsoil on the yearly intervals , i checked his oil a couple months prior to the year and it still looked good. 10X Better then any conventional i've ever seen at the end of its 3k/3month interval.

 

[brandini]

#1 visually expecting oil will tell you nothing useful unless it's contaminated to the point of being obvious, so don't rely on it
#2 kits and sample pump here: http://goo.gl/Ii0rGG