Build advice

gangstagangsta

nutturner
:
03 MSP Black Mica #913
Hey guys,
As of recent I have been running into more and more issues with the MSP. I have always wanted to forge it but cant afford the $3199 outright for the speed circuit long block. I would really like to pick someones brain on how to best go about sourcing a long block and pairing that motor with a set of forged internals. As well as any other should do/must do alterations. If anyone is interested in helping out a fellow MSPer go forged I would love to ask some questions via PM or in this thread. This is a daily driver and I dont need to go bigger than the T25 Garret so all of my bolt-ons should still work. I just want to up the boost to 10psi and be able to zoom zoom when I want to and cruz when I dont.

Just to give you some backround on the car:
Altered Customs FMIC
SSAFC v2
Greddy type RS BOV
SLS midpipe with J pipe(high flow CAT)
BC racing coilovers
Data aquistion system running my boost and AFR gauges(This stores the information)
ATP WGA
Vibrant VAC block
Millenia Purlator PCV
NGK Coil wires




Mods waiting to be installed: (Have been waiting on these due to the MSP not running right)
Greddy EBC
IntakeManifold with VCTS removed (upper Butterflies) and a mild PnP
PnP stock s-pipe
newer turbo (Stock) Mine has some shaftplay and it cant hurt to have a spare
Spal slim fans

Wish list:
Forged internals
Valves/springs bored to 1mm over
Exhaust manifold (looking at the POPE's)

Thanks for your time mates (cheers)
 
If you dont plan on upgrading the turbo then I wouldnt build the engine. Just raise the boost to 10psi with supporting mods and you should be fine.

If you really want to get good power out of your car I hear people have great luck when they are heavily modded with the stock turbo when tuning with a standalone. But then again you will be throwing big money at something that you would really need a bigger turbo to really benefit from.
 
I am not eliminating the possibility of getting a Disco, and thanks for responding! My motor is about to go, I can feel it, I have always wanted to take on a forged project so I will be proceeding with the build. I dont have a aftermarket ExhMani so I can always go bigger on the turbo when I replace it and I will have the room for it with the Spal fans installed. The 10 PSI would be for the DailyD. and I would up it for spirited driving/track days.

I need to talk with someone who has forged the motor before to let me know what types of problems they had and parts that they needed to complete the job. The weird parts that you might forget about like replacing timing belt with tensioner pulley&waterpump or main/head studs and any unforseen machine work that they ran into. Or someone to just give me an idea of what I am getting into. This may sound needy and I don't want to burden anyone but information cant hurt. If I can save a few bucks or a few hours of install time it will be worth it.
 
Im building my motor right now. All i can say is its expensive prepare to spend 10 g plus
 
Im building my motor right now. All i can say is its expensive prepare to spend 10 g plus

I have been reading your thread every day... all 20 pages. You are looking for more HP than I am, I am going for modest power, not trying to break 300WHP. I am basically using the Forged SpeedCircuit motor as a template. If I am going to spend 10k I would just buy it from them for $3100 and get the head for and extra 1300. I have most of my supporting mods already so I am really just looking to build the longblock and be safe and fun.
 
I would buy the block from them, Because they have built a ton of them and when you get the block you know it will be done right. On the other hand if you use a shop near you it could be the first FS they ever built. If I were you I would get the engine from them.
 
I would buy the block from them, Because they have built a ton of them and when you get the block you know it will be done right. On the other hand if you use a shop near you it could be the first FS they ever built. If I were you I would get the engine from them.

The thought has crossed my mind believe me. But I am only using a machinist for the decking, the hone/balance work and the Pnp/overbore on the head. My pops and I have built our fair share of cars and definately have the tools to get the job done. I have built a purchase list and with the quote from my machinist I would be under $3000 for my build, just trying to save what little money I have by doing the work myself... To be honest, that all the fun! I would be happy to post a list of build parts if you would like to take a look at it and let me know if there is anything I am leaving out.
 
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What about ems though? And clutch plus injectors and allthe other stuff u will need

MSP ecu w/ssafc piggyback for my EMS which I already have and the clutch will be replaced along with the throw out bearning but, I already have a clutch fund saved so I am not including it in the cost
Thses are the type of questions I am looking for. Thanks for taking the time mate! it is greatly appreciated!
 
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i posted all this in somebody elses thread, but here is all the same stuff of my uber-cheapo-forged-buildo:

i have 2300 miles on my freshly forged fsde. if u want accurate prices, here they are.
stock compression k1's: ZH5315AEAB4-A $431 shipped
and wiseco's: K614M835 $465 shipped
arp main studs: 203-5403 $92 shipped
arp head studs: 218-4703 $90 shipped
DNJ complete gasket rebuilt kit from rockauto: FGS4056 $165 shipped
felpro plenum gasket (for some reason its not included in the above kit, i even called rockauto about it): MS96145 $11 shipped
DNJ Main bearings: MB425, Rod Bearings: RB425, Thrust washers: TW425: all together $77 shipped
Crank balance and micropolish, new rods and pistons balance check, block cleaning and honing: $354
8qts of cheap penzoil and 2oil filters $43
2011-12-08013758.jpg


atp stock replacement wga (not absolutely necessary but mine was busted): ATP-WGT-011B $80 shipped
ngk spark plug wires :5659, wells 2 ignition coils: 5C1208, ngk 4 copper plugs: 4291 (made a huge difference, no more stutter, and again not completely necessary) 118 shipped
blood sweat and tears and a couple of 12packs of warsteiner black 20bucks
374133_10101112918199853_5257261_72685936_493201951_n.jpg


so the the absolute low total was $1728
with the couple things that were specific to get my car running WELL, $1926

and u know what, i would do it again any day, not only because of the satisfaction of doing it yourself but because now u have silenced ur check engine light for ever. and u can crank the boost to what ever level u want, (as long as u have a tune)

here is my dyno chart after the rebuild, on 8psi stock turbo, 2.5 fmic, open downpipe
dudyak_run2.jpg


and a little teaser video:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/KjePz5A1wME" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
2088MSP, Love the teaser video! That guy yelling at you in the end made me laugh. I could not have asked for a better post, how long did it take you to acquire all the parts? Some shops are telling me 8 weeks for the pistons and rods to come in stock.
 
you can do it for a decent price but expect to spend about 2500-3000 to do it right. pm me if you need some advice/direction
 

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