brakes HOW TO:

[PaulMP3]

brakes HOW TO: ????

My new front rotors and pads should be here by wedsday, I need to get these on ASAP. I would like to do them myself, but im nervous to do the bleeding on my own. Would it be possible to just but on the pads and rotors then take it to the local brake shop and hand them the brake fluid and have them bleed them for me. I have never done anything brake work b4, but i would love to learn. I am also getting a SS clutch line, if i put that on will i loose to much fluid, to the point i copuldnt drive it 2 miles to the brake shop?? I will be doing these thursday or i will be having them done thurday. We have a meet/cruise sat so i need my brakes for then.

I also still need to find a local place that can get me motul 600. If anyone knows of a shop that carrys it near Philly or trenton tell me. Im gonna stop on my way home from work tomorrow at a bike shop.

 

[mp3moose]

Thats basically what I did.

Moose

 

[PaulMP3]

The motul 600 comes in 1/2 liter containers. how many should i buy? what is the capacity for brake fluid?

 

[03Speed]

Are you getting slotted rotors??

 

[PaulMP3]

Also what tools are needed. i have a nice selection of tools. I might go buy a impact wrench and a torque wrench wedsday. i have a air ratchet already.

 

[PaulMP3]

yes i am getting the rotora slotted rotors (fronts only)

 

[Installshield 2]

You will not need an impact wrench for anything in this work, except the wheels...which are obviously still easy to remove anyway...

all of the lines are relatively easy to replace...but like mentioned the bleeding process is tedious and annoying...If you don't plan on doing all the work on your own, best bet is to take the lines and fluid to a decent brake shop...You will loose some fluid in the clutch line replacement, but more importantly allow a lot of air in the system...It will probably immediatly cause shifting and clutch engagement/release problems until bled...So I wouldn't change the line and then drive it anywhere until it is bled free of air...

I will see you next saturday man...

 

[Little Beavis]

My new front rotors and pads should be here by wedsday, I need to get these on ASAP. I would like to do them myself, but im nervous to do the bleeding on my own. Would it be possible to just but on the pads and rotors then take it to the local brake shop and hand them the brake fluid and have them bleed them for me. I have never done anything brake work b4, but i would love to learn. I am also getting a SS clutch line, if i put that on will i loose to much fluid, to the point i copuldnt drive it 2 miles to the brake shop?? I will be doing these thursday or i will be having them done thurday. We have a meet/cruise sat so i need my brakes for then.

I also still need to find a local place that can get me motul 600. If anyone knows of a shop that carrys it near Philly or trenton tell me. Im gonna stop on my way home from work tomorrow at a bike shop.

The clutch line is an issue, bit to replace your rotors and pads. . .you won't need to bleed the system. . .

You aren't putting in new brake lines right?

And where did you get the SS clutch line? And how much? (Plus let us know if it makes a difference!)

 

[PaulMP3]

You will not need an impact wrench for anything in this work, except the wheels...which are obviously still easy to remove anyway...

all of the lines are relatively easy to replace...but like mentioned the bleeding process is tedious and annoying...If you don't plan on doing all the work on your own, best bet is to take the lines and fluid to a decent brake shop...You will loose some fluid in the clutch line replacement, but more importantly allow a lot of air in the system...It will probably immediatly cause shifting and clutch engagement/release problems until bled...So I wouldn't change the line and then drive it anywhere until it is bled free of air...

I will see you next saturday man...

sounds good, i will have whoever bleeds the fluid for me also install the SS line.

I didnt know you were comming down, are you from this area or are you just comming down for the day.

 

[PaulMP3]

Re: Re: brakes HOW TO:

The clutch line is an issue, bit to replace your rotors and pads. . .you won't need to bleed the system. . .

You aren't putting in new brake lines right?

And where did you get the SS clutch line? And how much? (Plus let us know if it makes a difference!)

no ss brake lines.

I got it off corksport for a probe or mx6, there is a thead in this section about it. I will tell you if it makes a difference. There is a chance i might not put the ss line in, i ordered it fri so we will see if it is here by thurs afternoon. If not i will order some ss brake lines also and do them all at once. It cost 24$ after shipping.

 

[PaulMP3]

anyone wanna give me the basic steps on how to change rotors/pads. I think i know the basics, just so im not confused when im in the middle of the project. I have the protege manual, i will print out the brake section.

also what is the capacity

 

[toucci]

hmm well to replace the pads you gotta take off the caliper and remove the old pads, and compress the cylinder back to make room for the new, wider pads (i use a vise grip tool for this)

this makes the extra fluid flow into the overflow and makes room for the pads. instal like it was, and voila.

 

[garretts77]

Yeah, if you don't run into any problems, it takes longer to jack the car up and remove the wheels than it actually does to change the pads and rotors... Pretty easy really.

 

[PaulMP3]

cool, sounds simple. Is there any torque # for the bolts? i dont have a torque wrench, should i go get one? I planned on buying one soon anyways.


also i drove the car tonight and the brakes squeal sometimes when im not even braking, also my brake light flashed under heavy braking.

 

[garretts77]

paul, send me your email, and I will send you the brakes section of the FSM. Should answer all of your questions...

 

[Installshield 2]

Yeah paul, make sure you get a torque wrench before you do the work...Sears has some pretty accurate ones for $25...

When you first torque the wheels back on, you need to make sure everything is torque to spec...if not you will "run out" the rotors, that will make them pulsate and vibrate after a few thousand miles...Rotor run out is similar to "warping" but is caused the rotor not being perfectly flush between the suspension knuckle and wheel hub....Just take your time and make sure everything is perfectly clean before you install the new rotors...

 

[PaulMP3]

Yeah paul, make sure you get a torque wrench before you do the work...Sears has some pretty accurate ones for $25...

When you first torque the wheels back on, you need to make sure everything is torque to spec...if not you will "run out" the rotors, that will make them pulsate and vibrate after a few thousand miles...Rotor run out is similar to "warping" but is caused the rotor not being perfectly flush between the suspension knuckle and wheel hub....Just take your time and make sure everything is perfectly clean before you install the new rotors...

Thanks, i will check out sears, i know lowes had one for 49$ also.

Anything recomended to clean them with?

 

[PaulMP3]

paul, send me your email, and I will send you the brakes section of the FSM. Should answer all of your questions...

FSM???


If you are talking about the service manual, i already have it. Im gonna print it out and use it during the install. It seems pretty simple.


thanks though

 

[PaulMP3]

got my pads today, i really hope my rotors are here tomorrow..

 

[Installshield 2]

FSM???


If you are talking about the service manual, i already have it. Im gonna print it out and use it during the install. It seems pretty simple.


thanks though

FSM - Factory Service Manual...so yeah you already have it...

And when I changed my brakes I just bought some "Gumout" disk brake cleaner...It is alcohol based I think, so it dries really quickly but did an excellent job...Just place a piece of card board under that corner of the car you are spraying...Black s*** will literally run off of the brakes and onto the floor of your garage...and once that s*** dries it is a b**** to clean off...