Brake Pulsations

[beefski]

I have read in prior posts about the bad rotors, pulsating petal, etc. When did this occur? Local driving or slowing from highway speeds? I have pulsations only when decreasing from highway speeds. Going to dealer Sat. AM for something already. If this is something they should look at I will call and add it to the list. Full brake job was done right before I purchased the car. It has been under 10K miles since they were done.

Thanks.

 

[ceric]

Brake pulsation is more apparent when braking at higher speed due to more rotations per second.
Dealer could resurface them. Alternatively, you could try the 'bedding procedure" yourself.
See other related threads for details.

Proper brake break-in can reduce chance of brake pulsation.
I have not had such problems with my recent three vehicles after I started doing
brake break-in when they were new.

 

[beefski]

Well since they replaced them before I purchased the vehicle, if there is a problen they should have to take care of it. Brakes/rotors should last much longer than 10K miles.

What is the 'proper' bbrake bedding procedure?

 

[beefski]

Well, at the dealer 12/17, Open Road Mazda of Morristown, and as usual they did not want to hear anything. Brakes have 6k miles on them and the rotors are pitting and slightly warped. I am in negotiations with Mazda corporate to repair them and also coved the TSB on the scratched door pannel trim. The dealer did not replace them while in inventory or after the CPO process before I purchased. BOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! The CPO manager at the dealer did agree that these two items should be taken care of. We will see.

 

[beefski]

More brake issues... Went upstate ny skiing after christmas, the day after getting there dash was lit up like a christmas tree, brake light, traction control light and car with skid lines. I read the owner manual and checked the brake fluid resivor and to my suprise I could see no fluid. I added 3/4 of a container of fluid and all the lights went out. Spoke to dealer and have some kind of internal leak. What a PIA!!!!!!!!!!

 

[SeCX-9]

Only OEM Brakes work for me

To make a 3 month story short....at 55K miles the brakes were making a bad grinding noise when coming to a stop from about 10MPH. With the car exiting warranty I took the CX-9 to a local AAA approved shop that I have used with previous cars. Very honest and do great work for a reasonable price.

Report back that rotors are still fine, but brake pads could use replacing. I say sure, let's go that route for a few hundred bucks. Car comes back and sounds great. One week later the brakes start grinding again under same scenario. I plan to drive "through' the rough spots for another month or so to see if it settles out....after 3 months, problem remains and only gets worse. I call service center.

Bring car back to service place and they indicate that the front rotor has a patch, they just can't seem to clean-up no matter how hard they try. They also report the guy who did my car, did a bad job on the rears and inform me that he had quit the shop on his own free will. They freely admit this guy did a bad job. For about $150 they replace the front rotors and use different make pads on the front. On the rear, they "correct" and clean-up the rotors and use yet another brand of ceramic pads. Car drives fine for another week and starts grinding again. Problem seems to be when they heat up (such as my commute in or from work for 30 minutes).

At this point, I'm getting pissed. Bring car to service center and owner drives car for 30 miles (must be running errands) and notices grinding noise. They call me that they've pretty much run out of ideas other than use original Mazda OEM rotors and Pads. Not going to charge me for labor, but new pads, rotors and associated parts is another $305. Do I want to do this they ask? Do I have any other options I ask? Not really, as after market don't seem to be working. I pickup the car and they show me the invoice from Mazda for about $450 in brake parts. I pay only the $305 they informed me of. I've had the car for 6 days (and haven't been driving anywhere during the holidays) but no grinding noise yet. I told wife that this "fix" was free as she'd be pissed that I didn't go to the dealer.

At this point, what do I do if I DO have grinding noise?

- Service center is out of ideas, now that I have all Mazda OEM parts.

- Mazda Service won't honor any warranty as the repairs were done by a 3rd party.

- Hope for the best that the original OEM equipment perform flawlessly like the ones that came with the car.

Moral of the story. Guess I have to stick with OEM brakes next time around...

 

[Lindyrect]

Actually moral of the story is do your own brake jobs. I trust no one to do the things I want done right, including oil changes for the most part.

I replaced my pads and rotors with after market items and have over 33k on them and have had zero problems as compared to the 8k I got on the OEM rotors/pads before pulsation. Not to mention that I drive the car harder here than I did in Maryland, with highway speed at 80mph (legal) average and severe stop and go traffic.

 

[table5511]

Beefski, (nice username) it sounds like you are experiencing a leaking abs/haudraulic brake actuator failure which is a known issue and the NHTSA is currently investigating this.... http://news.consumerreports.org/car...ng-braking-problems-with-2008-mazda-cx-9.html it should be covered under warranty.

Lindyrect, I completely agree, do your own work whenever possible. In the line of work that I am in, I had a customer who's brakes failed...long story short, turns out that the local Kia dealer pushes brakes in and does not bleed them when they replace rotors...when you have the manufacturer pushing the caliper piston without bleeding brakes, then houston we all have problems. Trust no one.

 

[beefski]

I'll take that as a compliment, thanks. The service manager said the same thing. Strange though, drove home from upstate ny appox. 250 miles and the fluid level did not decrease at all. The fluid is VERY dark. Trying to work out an appointment with dealer to have it taken care of. Also trying to work in the rotor problem as well. Could be contributory to premature wear. Hope they go for it. I would much prefer to do my own maintenance but as I have full coverage until 100k miles I dont want to give them a reason for not paying on something because I did oil changes etc. My father owned a shop for 45 years so I could do maintenance if I wanted.

 

[SeCX-9]

Actually moral of the story is do your own brake jobs. I trust no one to do the things I want done right, including oil changes for the most part.

I replaced my pads and rotors with after market items and have over 33k on them and have had zero problems as compared to the 8k I got on the OEM rotors/pads before pulsation. Not to mention that I drive the car harder here than I did in Maryland, with highway speed at 80mph (legal) average and severe stop and go traffic.

Would if I had the nerve to and all the necessary tools. I can do electrical and wood, but cars repairs (beyond most basic servicable parts) are something I haven't attempted.

 

[table5511]

Yeah I don't agree with the only oem setup either. My oem brakes were the problem for me...see my posts for pictures of chunks of brake pad falling off the pad. I do think there ALOT of crappy aftermarket rotors and pads out there a.k.a. autozone/advance. I am very pleased with my Centric rotors and pads to date.

 

[Lindyrect]

Yeah I don't agree with the only oem setup either. My oem brakes were the problem for me...see my posts for pictures of chunks of brake pad falling off the pad. I do think there ALOT of crappy aftermarket rotors and pads out there a.k.a. autozone/advance. I am very pleased with my Centric rotors and pads to date.

Totally agree helbigtw about crappy aftermarket rotors. Just do a search about offshore rotors and see the difference from proper lathed rotors vs cast. There is a big difference in construction, finishing, and venting. I do not own any stock in Centric, but I have nothing bad to say about my rotors and ceramic pads. Not to mention I have not had to do any de-glazing procedures. Call me a cinic, but de-glazing procedures after 8k is a little overboard.

 

[Z-Thrizzle]

When I test drove my CPO CX-9 the brake pulsated when braking hard from highway speeds. They fixed the issue before picked up the car...I think they just changed the rotors. Anyway about 500 miles later I got a bunch of dash lights on. The dealer replaced one of the ABS sensors under warranty and haven't had the light come on since. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123807269-(Dash-Lights)-SS-ABS-TCS

 

[nuru]

Replaced my pulsating rotors with EBC slotted rotors and pulsating sensation went away. I have an audible groan/grinding that happens when I hit the brakes form highway speeds. I took it to Mazda and had them look at it twice and they are indicating the EBC Green brake pads and the rotors are making the noise but there is no problem with the brakes, they are fine. I contacted EBC, to get their say on this. The car stops without issue from all speeds, so....?

 

[Lindyrect]

I noticed something similar on my friends italian car months ago. When he hit the brakes I noticed an audible groan/grind, hard to explain, but not like metal on metal. He said that he had taken his car to the dealer and it was normal. I happens because of the rotor type and pad composition.

 

[nuru]

Same thing my dealer said. So i guess once these pads are worn out I will go with the full ceramic versions which will/should be quieter but not as good for stopping distance as these are - but still much better than stock!