Brake pad and rotor replacement question

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2013 CX5 GT
Hi,
I am looking at replacing my brake pads with OEM. I live in Canada and they have quoted 120 USD front and 87 USD rear.

The dealer told me that the hardware is not included and would cost me around 55 USD for the front. Still needed to ask the rear. Is it recommended that I change the hardware on the pads or I can reuse the old ones?

Regarding rotors, I don't feel any vibration on the brake pedals right (this is how I knew a warped rotor on my old cars) now and my car is 130,000 km already. Is it also recommended to change it as well?
 
Hi,
I am looking at replacing my brake pads with OEM. I live in Canada and they have quoted 120 USD front and 87 USD rear.

The dealer told me that the hardware is not included and would cost me around 55 USD for the front. Still needed to ask the rear. Is it recommended that I change the hardware on the pads or I can reuse the old ones?

Regarding rotors, I don't feel any vibration on the brake pedals right (this is how I knew a warped rotor on my old cars) now and my car is 130,000 km already. Is it also recommended to change it as well?
If I were you and want to have someone else doing the brake job, dealer will be the one the last I’d want to go. The price will be the highest. Try to find a reputable chain brake shop, such as Brake Plus in the US, for your needs. You can ask for the shop using the OEM parts if you prefer. And those shops usually have a proper standard procedure for the brake job. The rotors will be checked, resurfaced if the thickness meets the specification or getting a new set if needed.
 
If I were you and want to have someone else doing the brake job,
Why? Brake jobs are literally one of the easiest maintenance tasks you can do on your vehicle.

As far as OP's question, being in Canada is messing you up with prices, unfortunately. I replaced all of my components with OEM, including the hardware, and it was like $250 in parts.

You may consider going with Canada's version of CarQuest or Napa, and get whatever their premium brand is.

Akebono is Mazda's OEM for brakes, so maybe search that route as well.
 
The rotors could be thick enough" but are they messed up? Is there any vibration or pulsing?
 
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Also, you may be able to save a significant amount of money by having your rotors turned, so long as they are still in spec after the turning.

Most places will turn rotors for well under $20 each. My local guy does them $10.
 
Also, you may be able to save a significant amount of money by having your rotors turned, so long as they are still in spec after the turning.

Most places will turn rotors for well under $20 each. My local guy does them $10.
That’s what I’ve been always doing, resurface the rotors if they’re still within specs, with the new pads, although you do need a second car to take the rotors to the shop.

What I’ve found is those rotors on my VW’s and BMW’s are either too soft or the pads are too hard, which makes them unusable (too thin) in one life cycle of the brake pads. New rotors are always required with the pad replacement.

On the other hand, the front rotors of my 1998 Honda CR-V had been turned 2 times during the first 2 pad replacement, even the 3rd pad replacement at 170K miles the rotors were still within the specs to resurface but I chose to get a new set of OEM rotors.
 
Thank you for all the responses. Yeah, sometimes I envy the parts prices in US compared here in Canada. The parts alone that were quoted on me are somewhat almost for front and back already in the US. Right now I don't feel any pulsating or vibration. The only thing i hear right now is a metal noise. Thinking that was the indicator that the pads are too thick. But i would only hear it after driving for quite some time. Nothing when starting the drive.

I am also considering just buy a tool to compress the brake pistons and try to do it myself. I have asked a local part store and they have a bosch brand that already includes the hardware for the pads for about 80 CAD. Going to research as well about turning the rotors.
 
Dude, get the brake kit from Princess Auto (your version of our Harbor Freight). Their brake kits are fantastic and cheap.
 
In America at Harbor Freight, the brake tool brand is called Pittsburgh. No clue what it would be up there.

Just to be clear, they don't sell brakes, they sell the tools to do your own brakes, namely the tools to push in your calipers. I hope there was no misunderstanding.
 
When I did the rear brakes on my 2014 a couple of years ago, I bought OEM Mazda pads online (ebay) from a Mazda dealer. The pads were $75 and the stainless pad guides were $15.

Last year I replaced the front pads with Raybestos 'Element 3 EHT Hybrid pads' that cost $37 and included the stainless pad guides. ROCKAUTO had them even cheaper than what I paid on ebay. Online, OEM parts would have been about $100 for pads and guides. Never liked having rotors turned (only replaced) and the fact that mine were in such good shape (parallelism, runout, surface finish, plenty of thickness left, no shudder), I didn't even try to "break the glaze " with sandpaper. Just a good wipe down with brake cleaner. The new pads gripped great at their first application. This was unbelievable. The pads have been great, with better bite than OEM, and I see no reason to go back to Mazda's overpriced pads.

*** As for turning rotors (or automatically replacing them), I do neither if they are in good shape. After time they look like used rotors anyway so other than mating to the new pads the end result is the same anyway. Initial braking may be "grabbier" but reverts to the norm after the rotor gets polished.
 
In America at Harbor Freight, the brake tool brand is called Pittsburgh. No clue what it would be up there.

Just to be clear, they don't sell brakes, they sell the tools to do your own brakes, namely the tools to push in your calipers. I hope there was no misunderstanding.
Got it. I was looking at amazon for the toolset where it can also be used for the rear.
 
When I did the rear brakes on my 2014 a couple of years ago, I bought OEM Mazda pads online (ebay) from a Mazda dealer. The pads were $75 and the stainless pad guides were $15.

Last year I replaced the front pads with Raybestos 'Element 3 EHT Hybrid pads' that cost $37 and included the stainless pad guides. ROCKAUTO had them even cheaper than what I paid on ebay. Online, OEM parts would have been about $100 for pads and guides. Never liked having rotors turned (only replaced) and the fact that mine were in such good shape (parallelism, runout, surface finish, plenty of thickness left, no shudder), I didn't even try to "break the glaze " with sandpaper. Just a good wipe down with brake cleaner. The new pads gripped great at their first application. This was unbelievable. The pads have been great, with better bite than OEM, and I see no reason to go back to Mazda's overpriced pads.

*** As for turning rotors (or automatically replacing them), I do neither if they are in good shape. After time they look like used rotors anyway so other than mating to the new pads the end result is the same anyway. Initial braking may be "grabbier" but reverts to the norm after the rotor gets polished.
I read about Raybestos is also good. Will try to see if I can find those brands in our local part stores. Do i need to torque wrench the caliper pins when I put them back? Did you also put some grease in it when you did yours?
 
I read about Raybestos is also good. Will try to see if I can find those brands in our local part stores. Do i need to torque wrench the caliper pins when I put them back? Did you also put some grease in it when you did yours?
Here’s all the info you need to know on CX-5’s brake job. Yes I’d use a torque wrench for caliper pins as they have different torque requirements in different applications.

Strange Brake Pad Wear

You should only use “rubber grease” on caliper pins. Many have been using AGS Sil-Glyde brake lubricant for caliper pins.

Rear brakes gone at 15k..
 
Rotors are inexpensive and brakes needed infrequently. The time I spend on a brake job is a lot more valuable than the cost of new quality rotors.

The hardest part of a brake job for me is the bedding in. It's hills and windy 2 lane highway with stop signs around our place.
 
The hardest part of a brake job for me is the bedding in. It's hills and windy 2 lane highway with stop signs around our place.
Since I always resurface old rotors or getting new rotors if they’re out of specs, I’ve never done any bedding-in process by following “avoid unnecessary hard stops” outlined in break-in precautions.
 
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