Brainstorming subwoofer solutions....

izackary

Member
:
'06 MS6
OK, so here's where I'm at. I'm trying to design a system to work off my factory Bose radio since honestly it's cleanest solution aesthetically in my opinion, and simplest logically given the AuxMods and iPod solutions available, plus I have factory GPS. I've gathered that the head unit outputs flat line-level audio (albeit at about 2 Vrms) into the main amplifier under the passenger seat. When I get to it, I'll be bypassing the amp somehow, hopefully with a custom harness to plug into the existing connector from the radio, mimicking the amp's own connector. I'm already planning to gut and replace the door speakers and the Blowse sub in the rear deck, powering the doors off a 4-channel amp. That doesn't pertain to this thread, however.

What I'm trying to do is to collect advice and ideas as far as the sub box goes. Since I have the MS6 and my seats won't be folding, I plan to extend the box into the pocket-thingy between the bracing towards the front of the trunk, and probably build it the width of the trunk space between the wheel wells, or at least as wide as i can and still manage to shoehorn the box into my trunk. Originally I hoped to be able to fit four 10s in a sealed enclosure, roughly 250W each. Reason being that moving that much air obviously should create some volume down to 20 Hz, but being 10s, I can still get the punchy transients of a kick drum and such. (A buddy of mine had 4 sealed JL 10W1v2's run off a 500/1 amp in is old Denali and it sounded simple and oh so sexy.) But whatever...after measuring the opening of the trunk, I decided 4 won't work that well. OK so three 10s, right? Not so fast....

I'm not against having 3 woofers, except that I'd like to keep the load at 2 ohms if I can. I thought about still doing 4 subs in a box that's kind of a half-octagon; 2 on the flat in the middle, and 1 on each angle...but I still value my luggage. Yeah, I want my cake and to eat it, too, don't I? Then I got this crazy idea... Even though it may run best off 2 separate amps, what about a pair of 12s flanked by an 8 on either end? Same single box, but with separate sealed compartments. Has anyone tried that, or decided not to for any reason? I know this might be tough to visualize, and I'll try to get photos and some kind of diagram posted for those having trouble following along.

Opinions?
Ideas?
Advice?
Suggestions?
 
Would you be crossing the subs over differently? I think there might be some merit to it if you had the 8's running the higher frequencies and the 12's down low, but they would have to be crossed over and enclosed separately.

There are some pretty good quality high excursion 10's out there these days, and even single large woofers (15 or 18) that have good punch. I think I'd go one of those routes before mixing sizes, just for fear of cancellation and messing with the sound waves.
 
Yeah, I'd definitely have them crossed over, probably at 80 Hz between the subs, (THX standard, after all...) and around maybe 160 Hz between the 8s and the door speakers, that way the 8s can have an entire octave as if that made any difference. I figure that the midbass of the 8s would be able to pass thru the hole left by the OEM sub so that it wouldn't get completely muffled by the trunk trim and even moreso by the rear seatbacks.
 
ill get some pictures of mine up here for you as soon as i can. i have a custom built box that fits perfectly in the back side of the trunk and its bolted in so it does not move around at all...leaves me plenty of trunk space too.
 

Attachments

  • HPIM0465.webp
    HPIM0465.webp
    217.4 KB · Views: 283
  • HPIM0466.webp
    HPIM0466.webp
    229.5 KB · Views: 249
Last edited:
i have the amp mounted behind the box bolted to the metal seat reinforcement behind the black cloth of the trunk, and that is what the box is bolted to as well so it can not move around
 
ill get some pictures of mine up here for you as soon as i can. i have a custom built box that fits perfectly in the back side of the trunk and its bolted in so it does not move around at all...leaves me plenty of trunk space too.


id like to keep the room of the trunk then having those huge things back there
 
Me too, but as long as there's little more than my stuff (occasionally a suitcase when it's not my tool bag) and only me, I don't need tons of space. If and when I do, I'll just downsize. No biggie. :)
 
i have the amp mounted behind the box bolted to the metal seat reinforcement behind the black cloth of the trunk, and that is what the box is bolted to as well so it can not move around

How was it trying to shoehorn that behemoth into your trunk? I've been looking at building a sub box to span that width between the wheel wells to fit the 4 tens, but with my unrefined box-building skills and my DIYness, the box would be rather square. However the trunk opening gives me doubts that I could put that size and shape a box in. So today it struck me to build the box in 2 separate pieces and join them together once they're in the trunk, if necessary. I could shell out big bucks to get the box fiberglassed and made to slide into the trunk, but as I think I've said, I want to be able to secure the amps on top....not sure how well they'd stay put with fiberglass, unless there's a board underneath to fasten them to......

BTW, what's the Blowse sub still doing there? You still using it for midbass?
 
the box is 2 pieces...it is your standard 12in sub box but then there is a piece cut out of mdf to fit the outline of the trunk so it looks nice. the outside piece is wrapped in leather and suade and nailed and glued to the box. the seats fold down but only from inside of the trunk, so that is how the box got in there. the blowse is still in there because i listen to pretty much any music so when im not using the subs i have a switch up front to turn them off and i can just use the stock sub.
 
oOOOo. See, I'm just gonna tell my stocker to (gtfo). With the overall setup I have in mind, there'll be no need for it at all.

(Can you say "Type X Pro?" (rockon))
 
You could get a free air sub to replace the stock one and have o need for a box in your trunk (your trunk would b the box). As far as the signal goes, Crutchfield has all sort of adapters for this purpose and to add a separate amp.
 
Last edited:
You could get a free air sub to replace the stock one and have o need for a box in your trunk (your trunk would b the box). As far as the signal goes, Crutchfield has all sort of adapters for this purpose and to add a separate amp.

I could, however you're way off as far as what I'd rather do for the bass in this car. An 8-9 inch sub with a 14 cu. ft. enclosure or whatever it is isn't what I'm going for, though.

Your ears --> (fight) <-- my planned system

:D
 
Back