BPVs and BOVs

AllLostThings

Member
:
2007 Mazdaspeed 3
Ok so since I've had my car I had a TurboXs BOV with sounded great and broke and leaked by after about a year. I bought a used Forge BPV and ran that from the early spring until just today when I realized it was leaking by and was junk. WTF!! Are other people out there going through valves like mad too? I'm not running crazy boost or anything. Does anyone have a recomendation for valves? I'd like another Forge as the price and sound are good but I'd like it to last a while.
 
As a matter of fact i do...

I have the stock valve. It works great and doesn't leak.

+1. I never understood the crazy impulse to go out and buy aftermarket BPV's or worse, to by BOV's and run them in bad VTA, just to get some kind of louder or stranger duck call or farting sound, or to operate under the illusion that the stock BPV is junk just because its housing is plastic, and therefore, it must be leaking and causing a loss of power.

I guess those who think plastic is bad better rip out all that other plastic stuff, especially in the engine compartment, because that thinking would lead one to conclude that it's all cheap and defective and will fail too!

Metal is not always better for every application.

People should mod their cars for whatever purpose they want, even to choose their favorite farting sound when shifting under boost. I completely support modding to personal taste.

But if its just personal taste, the owner should not try to justify it on the grounds that the stock BPV is a POS, and robs the car of performance. I can't help but notice all the problems people are having with their precious, and sometimes very expensive aftermarket valves, in either setting them up to perform at least as well as the "POS" plastic stock valve or in maintaining their valve. This is all amusing to me.

Under the hood, where things get pretty damn not, high thermal plastic might actually be a better choice with a lower likelihood of changing internal dimensions with changes in temperature, where high strength is not required.

I can't make my stock BPV valve leak. It just holds boost steady to my shfit point. Period. Dumb me. I must be doing something wrong. If it fails, I'm probably going to get an aftermarket valve that's as close in design and function and sound (or lack of sound) to the stock valve as possible.

I outgrew making "artificial" sounds to impress my frends when I realized as a kid that making armpit farts was not getting me the kind of attention I was looking for.

I also put an extra straight through 3 inch resonator in the middle of my race pipe to make things more quiet after the dp/rp mod. Was getting headaches from the noise. I'd rather speak with numbers - 5.1 seconds to 60, 60-100 in 6.3, quarter in 13.4 @106, with just an intake and dp/rp on stock BPV, stock CBE and stock ECU tune, stock rims and tires.

Something must be wrong with my stock BPV. What do I have to do to to it to make it leak?
 
Last edited:
You gotta service them from time to time! Take it out, clean the grease out, re grease it, and do the pen test (if you have a Forge).

There's a very good article on the other forum that explains how to do it the right way.
 
+1. I never understood the crazy impulse to go out and buy aftermarket BPV's or worse, to by BOV's and run them in bad VTA, just to get some kind of louder or stranger duck call or farting sound, or to operate under the illusion that the stock BPV is junk just because its housing is plastic, and therefore, it must be leaking and causing a loss of power.

I guess those who think plastic is bad better rip out all that other plastic stuff, especially in the engine compartment, because that thinking would lead one to conclude that it's all cheap and defective and will fail too!

Metal is not always better for every application.

People should mod their cars for whatever purpose they want, even to choose their favorite farting sound when shifting under boost. I completely support modding to personal taste.

But if its just personal taste, the owner should not try to justify it on the grounds that the stock BPV is a POS, and robs the car of performance. I can't help but notice all the problems people are having with their precious, and sometimes very expensive aftermarket valves, in either setting them up to perform at least as well as the "POS" plastic stock valve or in maintaining their valve. This is all amusing to me.

Under the hood, where things get pretty damn not, high thermal plastic might actually be a better choice with a lower likelihood of changing internal dimensions with changes in temperature, where high strength is not required.

I can't make my stock BPV valve leak. It just holds boost steady to my shfit point. Period. Dumb me. I must be doing something wrong. If it fails, I'm probably going to get an aftermarket valve that's as close in design and function and sound (or lack of sound) to the stock valve as possible.

I outgrew making "artificial" sounds to impress my frends when I realized as a kid that making armpit farts was not getting me the kind of attention I was looking for.

I also put an extra straight through 3 inch resonator in the middle of my race pipe to make things more quiet after the dp/rp mod. Was getting headaches from the noise. I'd rather speak with numbers - 5.1 seconds to 60, 60-100 in 6.3, quarter in 13.4 @106, with just an intake and dp/rp on stock BPV, stock CBE and stock ECU tune, stock rims and tires.

Something must be wrong with my stock BPV. What do I have to do to to it to make it leak?

You could have summed all that up in one paragraph, but I agree that the stock BPV works more than adequate. Of course all the stores are going to say the stocker leaks, they obviously want to sell you a $200-300 BOV.

Only reason I can see upgrading to aftermarket is if you go big turbo.
 
I can speak from experience. When I replaced my stock BPV with the Forge it was night and day difference in drivabilty. The car held boost between shifts allowing for a much smoother transition with the forge where as the stock would not, causing jerky unsmooth transistion between gears. I could not believe the difference. I'm not one that cares much about the sound they make but how they perform. The Forge, for the money, is the winner.
 
+1.
I also put an extra straight through 3 inch resonator in the middle of my race pipe to make things more quiet after the dp/rp mod. Was getting headaches from the noise. I'd rather speak with numbers - 5.1 seconds to 60, 60-100 in 6.3, quarter in 13.4 @106, with just an intake and dp/rp on stock BPV, stock CBE and stock ECU tune, stock rims and tires.
Something must be wrong with my stock BPV. What do I have to do to to it to make it leak?

Where do these numbers come from? Actual track numbers or Dash hawk numbers?
 
There's no question in my mind the forge wins the driveability contest over the stocker. Max boost was held fine by my stocker but, it fluttered alot at light throttle and that sapped low end response. Plus, boost recovery on non-flat shifts was faster.

Forge + Red spring, FTW.
 
Where do these numbers come from? Actual track numbers or Dash hawk numbers?

0-60 and 60-100 numbers are both by stopwatch (very easily repeatable by anyone) and by G-Tech Pro RR accelorometer, which also generates graphs and is consistently within 1 tenth of quarter mile times. Quarter times are both from strip timer and accelerometer.

Dash Hawk would not be accurate, as it measures wheel speed, which would be adversely affected by wheelspin. Also it is not designed to the accuracy tolerances of good acelerometers.
 
You gotta service them from time to time! Take it out, clean the grease out, re grease it, and do the pen test (if you have a Forge).

There's a very good article on the other forum that explains how to do it the right way.

I've never heard of the pen test. I'll just replace what there is to replace when the kit comes and I should be good. Thanks
 
Probably fine that way. The pen test means taking a cheap bic style pen, pushing the piston up and sealing off the upper port with your finger. The piston should stay up. If it doesn't, there's a leak.
 

New Threads and Articles

Back