Blown headgasket (azian6er)

PRO 5 said:
Just a quick question for you guys. How would you know if you have a blown head gasket or a warped head? I have a rubber coated copper head gasket but don't have much miles on it yet and I have coolant and oil sitting on all 4 of my pistions. I already did the retourqing so I know that it's not that. Which one do you think it is for me? I will be taking the head apart (AGAIN!!!) and will be getting the head decked. What do you think about my head gasket? I don't want to have to buy another head gasket if I don't have to. But then again if I deck the head and then put it back together and it still leaks I will have to take that b**** back apart again. Well I've done this enough times to where I can practically do it in my sleep but it is a pain in the ass to do. So any opinions on what you think it could be? Head or head gasket? I really hope it's not both cause money is kinda scarce right about now.
Just for your info, oil and coolant is not leaking around the outside edges of my head just the inside onto the pistons. What do you think........

Dave
Click to expand...
Anyone?
 
Hmm, these copper gaskets are tougher than imagined...is your block o-ringed and are you using the 11mm ARP studs?
 
Well do you have a cooling problem right now? Do you have chocolate milk in your engine?(antifreeze and oil mixed) Coming from me who has blown a couple of head gaskets on the turbo Probe. If you have your head checked and its not warped or its within tolerances then I would carefully check torque specs. Also make sure you torque them in the sequence they need to be. Dont go from left to right. One time I was losing coolant but didnt know where it was going until I would overheat and find bubbles in my oil. But all that overheating warped the head just outside of tolerances so I had to get it shaved. Now i wish I had studs instead of factory head bolts because I always felt that the turbo(T3/T4 hybrid) I was running was too much for it, and the head wasnt clamped right or enough. Now on using the old head gasket, I wouldnt recomend that since youve already clamped that down and its experienced pressures. So your just taking it off and putting it back on which i dont think it will have the same strength. But maybe someone with more experience of copper head gaskets can give more imput
 
Last edited:
got my head off now, after a good 2 hours of taking s*** apart, by the way this is my 1st time doing this, so im pretty sure anyone with any mechanical skill can do it in the same amount of time...THANK GOD, my head is not warped from what i can tell, and hg is gone for sure, will be doing a few things to the head since it isnt warped, ps. brian if you need help takin the engine apart call me ill try to help any way i can...
 
oh yea, i needed a nice sized breaker bar to get the stock head bolts out, haha, i broke a socket trying to get these bitches out without one.
 
PRO 5 said:
Just a quick question for you guys. How would you know if you have a blown head gasket or a warped head? I have a rubber coated copper head gasket but don't have much miles on it yet and I have coolant and oil sitting on all 4 of my pistions. I already did the retourqing so I know that it's not that. Which one do you think it is for me? I will be taking the head apart (AGAIN!!!) and will be getting the head decked. What do you think about my head gasket? I don't want to have to buy another head gasket if I don't have to. But then again if I deck the head and then put it back together and it still leaks I will have to take that b**** back apart again. Well I've done this enough times to where I can practically do it in my sleep but it is a pain in the ass to do. So any opinions on what you think it could be? Head or head gasket? I really hope it's not both cause money is kinda scarce right about now.
Just for your info, oil and coolant is not leaking around the outside edges of my head just the inside onto the pistons. What do you think........

Dave
Click to expand...
I don't know what really happened to your car, but I do know a couple of things:

1.From my dealings with rubber and gaskets, I don't like them because they don't stand up to heat well. Remember my oil leak issues from the turbo? Damn rubber gasket!

2. Did you o-ring the block? I hear that you should if you get a copper head gasket.
 
As of right now I don't have the 11mm studs yet but I am working on getting them. I still have the 10mm studs. I don't have my block o-ringed because I thought that the rubber coated copper head gasket did not need to have the block o-ringed. I have not had time to take off the head yet but when I do, I will take it to then machine shop to see if it is indeed warped. If not then I guess it is the head gasket and I will go with a stock head gasket instead of another rubber coated copper head gasket because I didn't even have 100 miles on the gasket yet and if it is blown........ Doesn't speak very well for it. As far as overheating, I haven't had an overheating problem. Only when this problem just started (car running funny and starting to see oil and coolant on the pistons) did I see the car get hotter then normal.
I checked my oil and it is not milky. The oil and coolant have not mixed in the oil pan or the radiator. So I don't know. It seems like a small leak but it is leaking on all 4 pistons. I will keep you all updated on what I find.

Dave
 
Dave,
Make sure you get the 11mm ARP studs because those 10mm will be a problem. I think that is why Bryan blew his stock gasket.
I have already o-ringed my block so hopefully I won't have the leaking issues with my copper gasket.
 
OK I just got my 11mm studs today. I will be taking my head back apart (AGAIN!!!) check the deck as well as the headgasket. So hopefully soon I will have my car back up and running soon. Damn I miss driving my car. Been almost a year already. :(

Dave
 
Well just an update, took my head off and the rubber coated head gasket looked alright. So I took my head to the machine shop to get the deck checked. Come to find out it was perfectly fine. (uhm) So the machine shop guy and myself have come to the conclusion that I would need to o-ring the block even though the gasket is rubber coated. So I guess it is misleading about the rubber coating. It doesn't seal well at all. So since I am not about to pull out my block, take it all apart and have it o-ringed I will just pick up a stock head gasket. The machine shop guy said that a multi-layer steel head gasket should be good enough.
I wouldn't doubt that a lot of my problem was my the 10mm studs that is very lose in the block unless it is tightened down. I would put money down that this was a big contributer to the problem. Well the stock head gasket will not come in until next week Wednesday so hopefully I will be back on the road by next weekend.

Dave
 
How do I know if I have 10mm head studs as opposed to 11mm? Is the difference in the diameter of the stud? What's the problem with the 10mm?
 
PRO 5 said:
As of right now I don't have the 11mm studs yet but I am working on getting them. I still have the 10mm studs. I don't have my block o-ringed because I thought that the rubber coated copper head gasket did not need to have the block o-ringed. I have not had time to take off the head yet but when I do, I will take it to then machine shop to see if it is indeed warped. If not then I guess it is the head gasket and I will go with a stock head gasket instead of another rubber coated copper head gasket because I didn't even have 100 miles on the gasket yet and if it is blown........ Doesn't speak very well for it. As far as overheating, I haven't had an overheating problem. Only when this problem just started (car running funny and starting to see oil and coolant on the pistons) did I see the car get hotter then normal.
I checked my oil and it is not milky. The oil and coolant have not mixed in the oil pan or the radiator. So I don't know. It seems like a small leak but it is leaking on all 4 pistons. I will keep you all updated on what I find.

Dave
Click to expand...
Anytime you go copper, you should o-ring.
 
Kooldino, I bought my ARP studs with the suggestions from that thread too. The problem is they are 1mm narrower so the threads are not being fully engaged.
 
So it lasted three years great this one do ARP head studs and Cometic HG I quess you still remember how to do it.
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

New Posts and Comments

K
Does my 2025 CX-5 Have Cylinder Deactivation?
2 3
Replies
42
Views
14K
stickerbush
S
C
How many miles has your Mazda2 traveled?
2
Replies
28
Views
36K
blackbean
B
T
Clutch replacement without engine removal?
Replies
2
Views
408
blackbean
B
mrplt
Framed autodimming rearview mirror to frameless
2
Replies
23
Views
10K
NikoB
N
SparkYellow
    • Like
Transmission pan filter change at 159K miles
Replies
10
Views
279
SparkYellow
SparkYellow
B
What grade oil do you prefer?
Replies
0
Views
79
banjos-n-beer
B
View more…

New Threads and Articles

Back