Bloody brake dust!!

3 day owner with custom gunmetal front rims for free!!! goo dust! Ya i saw this thread a few days ago and sure enough I've got break dust covering my front rims. So i tried to wipe them down but didnt take my time so now it just looks like crap. Ill try some wheel wax
 
frequent washing helps immensely with this issue. I wash mine a couple times a week with regular car wash solution (water + soap) and use a microfiber towel. Just take your time and get it clean between each spoke, then wash the wheelface and the tire sidewall. This will get it looking 100%

If your really crazy you can jack the car up, remove the wheel and wash the backside as well. I will be doing that every 3000 miles when I rotate the tires.
 
I let mine go majority of the winter and just washed it this week. Most of the brake dust came right off, but I am left with "specs" of black dust that don't want to come off. Is there anything that I can use to get these remaining spots off? I am thinking maybe some sort of attachment to my Dremel?
 
I can't believe the engine braking issue is still coming up. Engine braking does not hurt your clutch or your engine in any way.

Others tend to back me up as well....

Petrol and diesel cars manufactured from 1990 onwards, are generally equipped with fuel injection combined with an electronic function that cuts off the engine's fuel supply under engine braking (accelerator released and a gear engaged). The advantages of this fuel cut off function can be used by releasing the accelerator in time, for example when approaching traffic lights. This also reduces wear and tear on the brakes, reducing maintenance costs. Engine braking, not only has a positive effect on fuel consumption, but also on exhaust emissions, traffic safety, traffic flow and passenger comfort.

http://www.ecodrive.org/The-golden-r...ing.249.0.html

Instead of using your brakes to slow your vehicle down on a steep grade, use what is known as "engine braking" (big-rig drivers use something similar called "jake brake").
This is a good idea if you want to:
a) save your brakes a lot of unnecessary wear & tear
b) actually HAVE brakes at the end of the hill!
In fact, you will increase the life of your brakes by a few months (or even years, depending on how much steep downhill driving you do) if you simply use engine braking whenever possible, rather than actually pressing the brake pedal to slow your vehicle.
In short, you are literally using the engine to break the speed of your vehicle traveling downhill.
This does NO harm to the engine itself or any of the inner working parts.

http://thefuntimesguide.com/2005/07/downhilldriving.php

The advantage of using the engine to dissipate energy is this immediate ejection of energy. Hot gases are ejected from the vehicle very quickly and the gases also transfer much of their heat directly to engine parts. In addition, friction produced within the engine system also adds heat to the engine parts.
This engine heat is taken away by the engine's integrated cooling system: usually a liquid circulation system and a radiator. Disc or drum brakes have no such energy dissipation mechanisms. They must rely on air flow to remove heat and they retain heat without producing temperatures that would deform and damage the brakes.
Placing a vehicle in a low gear causes the engine to have more leverage (mechanical advantage) on the road and the road to have less leverage on the engine. This is what allows cars to slow down using their relatively flimsy engine parts. The engine maintains a high rotational speed to dissipate a lot of power without forcing too much strain on the engine.
The exhaust brake is used in large diesel vehicles because the rate of conversion of mechanical energy into waste thermal energy is low compared to the mechanical returns to kinetic energy from the air-spring effect in the engine.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_braking
 
A full CAI you will have to take your bumper off (not as bad as it sounds) and short ram is a lot easier but generally does not produce the same HP advantage (arguable either way). I do know that federal guidelines protect certain intake modifications unless absolutely noted on the vehicle warranty that it will not be covered. Mazda has them as green additions that are NOT supposed to void your warranty. I have been hearing of people having problems though but am not sure of other mods they may have...
 
from what i understand, all the CAI installs only require you to take off the fender cover in your left front wheel well. no one actually asks you to take off the front bumper.
 
so my warranty got voided. the dealership said because of my boost controller, front mount, intake, catless exhaust, hard pipes, and methanol setup they wouldnt touch my car.

this is total bulls***
 
*sigh* once again, they cant void your warrenty unless they can prove that what you have done to your car is the SOURCE of the problem. A new intake cannot cause your transmission to fall out while you are on the freeway, therefore they cannot tell you to screw yourself.

I think a full engine swap would do it though......... lol
 
what kind of oil do you use?

SwampAss, you still crack me up dude. I was expecting a little story like this though:

I was driving along with my new HKS SSQ, INJEN CAI, TWM shifter Bushings, HKS BOV, TWM SS,TWM Type R shift knob, COBB SRI, and then all of sudden, my rear engine mount broke! Unfortunately, because of the all weather floor mats, I was unable to get my foot out of the pedal well, so I ended up going into a small puddle of water. Fortunately though, my INJEN CAI sucked up over 17 gallons of water and immediately shut down my engine before I could do further damage.... I took it to Mazda, but they wouldn't work on it because the two technicians, Magnuson and Moss, said it looked like I modded my car. Can you believe the nerve of those guys?

Does this happen to everyone who owns and MS3 or just me?
;-)
 
I made an Shortening Ram Intake out of a wet/dry vac filter and crisco can with both ends cut out. I'd take pictures but the camera does not have enough mega pixels to capture how awesome I am.
It's so bad assed it unvoided two warranties that were previously voided on this site.

Darkson, and that squirrelly kid from Baltimore....go get your cars fixed. I got it covered.
 
Swamp, leave it to you to take this from a legitimate thread to jibberish in one post. I think someone even answered your question seriously. I guess they do not know you yet. Thank god for this forum while at work! Makes the day go by fast; good entertainment.
 
TRUE! But you did have to put the disclaimer of "seriously". Now the real question is "What kind of wax should I use?"

(p.s. Sorry for the threadjack, but I think we can put a fork in this one anyway!)
 

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