Blew head gasket Do i fix it sell it or junk it?

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whatusername

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02 protege5
Well guys we have the zoom zoom boom club for the NA cars and now the pssst pssst psssssssss club for the turbo's and now i am wondering what i should do.. i saw oil fom the back of engine leaking and all coolant is gone the damn thing left me 40 miles from home on the highway on a really narrow shoulder. waited 2 hrs for tow truck and when pulling car up on flatbed the chain bent up my nice brand fckin new intercooler and when letting the car down the intercooler bent out the other direction and is crushed on top too plus pulled my front bumper down on drivers side.. The Tow is company not responsible for damage to lowered cars and aftermarket parts so ift falls on me... now with that being said do i fix her? sell her? or junk her? im just aso tired of pouring so much money into this car. hell it was exactly 1 year ago i put an engine in it.What should i do?
 
first thing is just to find out the cost of the repair. Is it just a head gasket or did you throw a rod?
If you do your own mechanical work, you can get a used engine in there relatively inexpensively. The thing is if you don't want something like this to happen again its best to build the engine and it doesn't sound like that is something you want to invest in.

How did it happened? where you in boost/high revs?? Don't mean to be a nag but if you are running more the .5bar and excessively revving(dogging it) with a stock block you're asking for it fail.



If you decide to junk it, part it out first so you can get some of your money back.
If you know a mechanic ask them if they're interested.
 
Definitely find out how extensive the damage is first. If you're able to do your own labor, you could easily replace a head gasket for just the cost of the gasket and some new fluids...
 
Sounds like alot of things wrong. Check the oil if theres milk in it its either blown head gasket or cracked head
 
i was not dogging it i was on the highway under a little boost accelerating up an incline.. i know y it happened its cuz im an idiot.. i knew when i did the ic piping and the ic that the stock fans no longer fit so i used a single 10 inch slim fan and ordered a 12 in slim fan.. the 10 in was not enough to cool the car as it would bubble in the over flow.. well today was a hot day and i was driving and heard a pop and a hisss n smoke everywhere i pulled over and saw coolant all over but assumed it was from the overflow as usual.. then i started driving again cuz my gauge was at 1/2 like normal and a few min later i heard pinging then the car shuddered n engine died i pulled over n saw more smoke.. i looked in rad and it was bone dry. i looked underneath n saw oil.. i checked the oil and no milky oil but eng has no compression to start.. looked at the gauge again and it was at redline.. makes no sense cuz it was reading 1/2 when it happened. i have a coworker wit a 03 p5 and same thing happened to him read half car stalled tried to restart and gauge was hot also blew head gasket.. is there some kind of intermittent issues with our gauges? i dunno if these heads warp or if i can get away with a new gasket n fluids.
 
Well After talking with many people and long deliberations i have decided i am going to fix her 1 more time. if this ever happens again she is done.
Plus it gives me the chance to add the new t25/t28 turbo i have and remove the water lines plus mayb upgrade to the 626 intake manifold. my only concerns are with the t25/28 turbo what psi do i set the wga for stock boost? also what year 626 to get the intake from and do i use my old TB and sensors or the 626 ones? And do these heads warp or can i just add a new gasket and be good to go? Any info would be appreciated
My slim fan came in today (dam car couldnt last 1 more day huh lol) and my bro is coming tomorrow to take the bumper and repair it so all i need now is another new Ic i think im gonna get a 5.5" tall instead of a 7" tall so it dont hang as low as the other one.
 
youll need to get the head service... Any engine thats been over heated to the point of failure will need to be serviced and inspected by a reputable machine shop. Also check the deck surface just incase.


Just a suggestion change the wiring so both fans kick in at the same time. Its a simple cut and splice job at the ecu. or you might be able to jump the relay too.
Slim fans are not nearly as effective as the stock fans.

Also on the gauges are not an accurate representation of engine temp. I believe it has a few possible positions, on the gauge: bottom, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and top. Each position represents a range. Since ive watch the behavior of the gauge compared to my haltech exact reading. When the needle is in the middle of the gauge the actual coolant temp is any were from 140f to 220f (i cant remember the exact range but its close to that). IMO a coolant temp above boiling point (212f) is starting to lean toward the too hot side of things. Your thermostat is fully open around 180f-195f and your fan kicks on soon after around 200f If it starts to move on the dash above 1/2 at any moment its best to just pull over and shut it off because that means the coolant temp has already passed the ~220f.


edit: it does seam weird that it didn,t atlest move to 3/4 when you heard all the hissing... the gauge is slow to react too.. im really not too sure.
 
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the gauge not moving would seem to indicate that his coolant temp switch may have been faulty before hand.

sorry to hear about all this. i am in college and thats why i havent built my car. i need a reliable car for transport to work and classes, and modding would make me push it harder(i know me and i know if it had a turbo or any really big performance mods i would be racing and running hard) modding a car is asking for more repair bills no matter if dogged or not. i am tempted to throw a turbo system on mine but every time i think about it i look at the cost of everything and future repair/ gas costs and it keeps me from doing it.

hopefully you get it fixed good, it would be a shame to let it end up like this again. and as mentioned above try to keep stock fans slim ones dont do well at all.
 
cant keep stock fans piping wont let me i have a 12in fan im gonna use as a puller and a 10 in i will use as a pusher n hopefully that will be enough.. i will tear into the car on monday.
 
pulled the head off today i found the heater hose had busted and the exhaust valves where ash white and crudded and the intake valves wer fine just a little bit of black carbon.. also found 2 exhaust valves were broken. what could have caused it?
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Arghhhh if it aint 1 thing its another... friggin head i purchased had a broken valve cover bolt in it been trying to drill it out and that hybrid t25 compressor/t28 Exhaust turbo wont bolt on because the S pipe is hitting the turbo's exhaust housing is there a spacer i can buy to space the s pipe back a little? or do i need a whole new downpipe?
 
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What is the problem with the S pipe? That flange isn't really a spacer and you would need much longer studs to use it. Did the timing belt break or belt tensioner fail? Something had to happen to jump time to break the valves like that.
 
timing belt is good it didnt break or jump timing the s pipe hits the larger exhaust housing of the turbo so it wont sit flat and seal where the 5 bolts are and i have longer studs installed they came with the turbo rebuild kit
 
Do you have a wideband?

It looks to me like this engine has been running excessively lean under boost.
 
yes i have an aem eugo and according to it i run super rich at boost pegging 10.00 which is its lowest and on decel i hit 16 and ---- idle is stoich at 14.7-15.
 
Ehh then I'm probably wrong. Normally you see burned valves like this when there are combustion issues that cause high cylinder temperatures.
 
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