Big front brakes from MazdaSpeed3

[TheMAN]

Interested in upgrading your normal 3's front brakes to the BIG 320mm front brakes from the ms3? Well here's the parts list and retail prices:

B3YF-33-61X right front caliper $427.95
B3YF-33-71X left front caliper $427.95
B3YF-33-28X front caliper mounting bracket (same for both sides) $194.50
B37F-33-233 front caliper bracket spring (same for both sides) $66.20
B37F-33-25X front rotor $75.25
B3YF-33-23Z front brake pad set $183.00

optionally (and probably recommended), you can upgrade the brake booster and master cylinder also:
B37F-43-800 brake booster (price TBD)
B37F-43-400 master cylinder $194.40
BA6R-43-550 brake fluid reservoir $94.80
BN8F-43-55YB brake fluid reservoir cap $6.10


the rear brakes on the ms3 are the same as the normal 3s, but interestingly I found the rotor to be different, not sure what the difference is... maybe the rotor hat is a bit different so that the wheels could sit better? anyway the part number is C25Y-26-251A in case someone wants to check it out... retails for $59.80

 

[tsunami]

wow those prices are crazy but then again its a bbk for the fronts so 1700 for just the axle upgrade and then another 3bills+ for the booster and master cylinder upgrade... so just over 2k... thats onpar with whats out there...


thanks for the info and prices...

 

[keleko]

~$1711 for the complete kit, and then another ~$496(est) for the options, and then another ~$75 for braided lines

ouch.

 

[TheMAN]

no one ever said to pay retail prices! there's tons of places that sell OEM mazda parts at major discounts

 

[RPI-Speed3]

While I was painting my calipers this past weekend I took a close look at the front brakes on the MS3. One thing I noticed, the brake pad surface area is extremely small to me. I'm hoping Hawk or Porterfield will make some replacement pads with more surface area for the fronts.

I am also interested to see if StopTech or Wildwood develop 2 piston caliper kits for this car.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

no one ever said to pay retail prices! there's tons of places that sell OEM mazda parts at major discounts

*cough* me *cough*

 

[Grodzman]

12.6" MS3 Rotors/Pads + 215/45/18 Bridgestone RE050A's = 116 ft. 60-0.

 

[RPI-Speed3]

12.6" MS3 Rotors/Pads + 215/45/18 Bridgestone RE050A's = 116 ft. 60-0.

I hear ya, but I'm coming from an RX-8 running Carbotech Panther XP8s. In comparison these brakes seems soft.

 

[Grodzman]

My primary concern is good initial bite, good pedal feel, and minimal brake fade. The MS3 hits the spot for me there. A stiffer pedal feel doesn't give more confidence or anything, it just makes pedal modulation and (my bad) heal-toe downshifting even harder to do.

*rant* I still do not feel comfortable downshifting in the MS3, the steering wheel is just too low (even on highest setting, with the seat as low as it goes) and I keep hitting it with my knee. I have relatively skinny feet too, so I can't just roll my foot over onto the gas pedal with confidence. *end-rant*

 

[gar777]

I'm new to the 3 so correct me if I'm wrong but I read that the MS3 calipers were the same as the standard 3, only the brake rotor and (I'd guess) the caliper mounting bracket were different (see WindingRoad.com review). If this is right, then I'd think you'd only need to buy those pieces. Anyone know for sure?

 

[TheMAN]

if I wasn't sure, I wouldn't have posted this thread, duh!

 

[Chibana]

Yes, the calipers are definitely different. If I recall correctly, the front brakes are straight off of one of the Volvos, the S60, I think.

So the question now is, "Is this worth it?" I'm looking to take my 3 to the track once in a while, and I'm wondering how much of an improvement this will make over the stock brakes on my 2.3L 3, with upgrading to pads that are more track appropriate, stainless steel brake lines, and more track appropriate brake fluid. I don't expect anyone can really answer this question, but I'd be interested in thoughts. The reviews of the Mazdaspeed3 seem to indicate that it has not only good brakes, but brakes that are designed for light track duty as well as daily driving. Of course, the reviews of the 2.3L Mazda3 also comment on how good the brakes are, at least for normal driving.

 

[gar777]

Yes, the calipers are definitely different. If I recall correctly, the front brakes are straight off of one of the Volvos, the S60, I think.

So the question now is, "Is this worth it?" I'm looking to take my 3 to the track once in a while, and I'm wondering how much of an improvement this will make over the stock brakes on my 2.3L 3, with upgrading to pads that are more track appropriate, stainless steel brake lines, and more track appropriate brake fluid. I don't expect anyone can really answer this question, but I'd be interested in thoughts. The reviews of the Mazdaspeed3 seem to indicate that it has not only good brakes, but brakes that are designed for light track duty as well as daily driving. Of course, the reviews of the 2.3L Mazda3 also comment on how good the brakes are, at least for normal driving.

My view: it's not worth it to upgrade to the bigger MS3 brakes for a standard 3. Instead, spend your money on good pads, new rotors every time you change the pads and good brake fluid. If you can also afford it, sticky tires will help your braking much more than bigger-than-stock brakes.

In order, I'd change (1) brake fluid, (2) high end pads (like Carbotech Panther or similar) with new rotors (not drilled or slotted), (3) SS lines - optional (I have them but I'm not sure they make much difference), and (4) sticky tires (this will help braking much more than bigger brakes). Bigger brakes generally won't shorten stopping distances but may provide better pedal feel and/or more resistance to fade.

If you haven't done many track events, just change (1) + (2) and see how it goes. Your tires will be the limiting factor at this point and should be the next thing you spend money on if better stopping is your goal.

 

[Chibana]

Thanks for the reply. I've been wondering about the SS lines. My 3 already has by far the best brake pedal feel (very firm) of any of the cars I've owned. I replaced the brake cables on my 1997 Contour SE, and it made a noticeable difference, but I'm not sure it would on my 3. Thanks again!

 

[bustanut]

i was driving some tight roads today and it was the first time i was dissapointed with the brakes. Tell now ive been impressed and it stops really good. Today i was noticing a lot of wheel shake while braking which i think would have to be from them overheating. Was i just driving to hard or have you guys also noticed your brakes overheating? Until now i wasnt planning on upgrading the brakes. What would solve this problem, could i accomplish it with minor parts or should i get some bigger rotors, maybe slotted, any advice?

 

[TheMAN]

"shaking" doesn't happen due to overheating, it happens because the rotors got warped... rotor warpage occurs frequently when the lug nuts aren't tightened evenly and to spec

 

[bustanut]

i know what if feels like when the rotors get warped and it doesnt seem to be that. If i drive my car really hard into corners it feels perfect until it gets really hot and when i drive easy on it again and then brake later the wheel doesnt shake then. Not saying that my rotors arent warped but it doesnt seem that its the problem. Rotors only have 5000 miles on them and no hot spots.....

 

[gar777]

actually, it could be lots of things but I have never had any kind of shake up front under braking that wasn't cured by new pads and new rotors (and/or new tires - since tire wear and balance effect this, too). you should definitely try changing those before considering upgrading brakes to a larger size. our stock brakes are really very good, even for track driving (with the right pads and tires) and it isn't likely that you need more for canyon road driving

 

[bustanut]

so with the stock pads and brake set-up u dont think theres a chance im experiencing overheating? My brakes/steering wheel never shake under normal conditions exept when i drive really hard and do a lot of braking. Is there any other explanation for my steering wheel shaking under braking?

 

[gar777]

could be (1) uneven tire wear and/or balance - how many miles on tires? how many miles since rotated? balanced? or (2) brake pad/rotor wear. heavy braking will transfer alot of weight to the front of the car and push down on the tires more heavily than normal, often revealing a pulsation in the steering wheel not felt (or not as pronounced) in regular driving.

what I'm saying is that by changing tires and/or brake pads/rotors, the pulsation will most likely go away. the stock brakes in good condition and with pads appropriate for the driving conditions and with good, balanced tires will not pulsate