Best way to warm engine in morning when colder temp [0-31°F]

[sugob]

Wondering if there was a preferred method to warm the car after car sitting outside overnight in sub freezing temps, say if it dipped to lower in the 0-31°F range [-18 - 0°C]
e.g. run engine [without revving it] for 5 mins - is longer better? I have remote start so could turn it on sooner, before starting the manual window de-icing
Just trying to minimise any engine damage [2.5T] rather than make car warm for the occupant [human comfort doesn't count ]

TIA

 

[jeffclj]

Hi there, I live in Ontario and more than half of the winter days here have sub-freezing temperatures.
I usually let my car idle on the driveway for about 2~3 minutes (depending on how cold it is) to let the engine be properly lubricated. But idling longer than that won't help increase the engine temperature too much, you can tell from the coolant temp gauge. Then I would put it in gear and let the car cruise at idle speed in the neighbourhood (while I'm on the way out), and intermittently press the gas padel gently to bring the rpm max to about 1500~2000 rpm. I feel this helps to warm up the overall components of the vehicle instead of just the engine alone.
Even when I'm out on the road, I have a general rule of thumb that I only allow my max speed equal to the current coolant temp.(e.g. at 40 degrees Celcius I would only go 40km/h max if traffic allows)

Hope that helps! You can play around and find out a routine that works for you.
(2018 CX-5 2.5 NA)

 

[CarpeDiem]

The best way is to use a engine block heater - an option for the CX-5. I lived in Alaska where winter mornings often dipped close to -40*. Idling for very long did little to raise the temps. In fact my work truck was often left running all night, yet the temp gauge still showed cold. Not as bad as the OP’s circumstances, but I’d get the block heater.

 

[Mazdiod2]

The best way is to use a engine block heater - an option for the CX-5. I lived in Alaska where winter mornings often dipped close to -40*. Idling for very long did little to raise the temps. In fact my work truck was often left running all night, yet the temp gauge still showed cold. Not as bad as the OP’s circumstances, but I’d get the block heater.

A block heater is the best. There are a few ways to add heat to the oil pan as well. There are stick on pan heaters and heated dipsticks.
I think to add a block heater you might have to remove a freeze plug from the block but the heater is inexpensive.

 

[sugob]

I usually let my car idle on the driveway for about 2~3 minutes (depending on how cold it is) to let the engine be properly lubricated. But idling longer than that won't help increase the engine temperature too much, you can tell from the coolant temp gauge
...
Even when I'm out on the road, I have a general rule of thumb that I only allow my max speed equal to the current coolant temp.(e.g. at 40 degrees Celcius I would only go 40km/h max if traffic allows)

Thanks, so a short time is enough and then drive low revs [which is probably a good idea due to icy conditions]. Easy rules of thumb are what I'm after [thou 104°F at 25mph is not so easy!]. I've been remote starting possibly up to 5 mins before getting to car [getting people out to the car on cold mornings can be tough!] then, as engine stops when open door, then restarting and pressing the 'front' [all air to windscreen/shield] and 'rear' [rear & front window/wiper warmer, maybe wing mirrors?] and the cleaning off any snow [in

The best way is to use a engine block heater - an option for the CX-5. I lived in Alaska where winter mornings often dipped close to -40*. Idling for very long did little to raise the temps

In MA, USA doesn't get that cold [well, usually!] so a block heater is something I hopefully to worry about

 

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

If you watch the TACH, the engine will idle down after 1-3 minutes from cold start. This means that the ECU registered information from the sensors and reached engine temperature "Closed loop" operation and is fine to drive normally. If it takes longer then about 3-5 minutes to idle down, you likely will get the engine check light and would need to retrieve the engine code to see what happened.

 

[ColtX-5]

I have a scangauge and can see coolant and trans temps. I try not to move the car until the coolant temp reaches 100F, about 90 seconds. The idea is to let some heat build up so bearing clearances are closer to normal before extra stress is applied to the engine. I would rather let it idle until the engine is fully warm, but that is rarely practical. Then, I drive gently and keep engine RPM below 2500 until the coolant temp gets to 180F+, about 7 miles. I will not tow or hoon about until the trans temp exceeds 180F., about 25 miles. After both are fully warm, anything goes.

The blue cold light goes off at 130F, so it's not a good indicator of much.

 

[sm1ke]

Wondering if there was a preferred method to warm the car after car sitting outside overnight in sub freezing temps, say if it dipped to lower in the 0-31°F range [-18 - 0°C]
e.g. run engine [without revving it] for 5 mins - is longer better? I have remote start so could turn it on sooner, before starting the manual window de-icing
Just trying to minimise any engine damage [2.5T] rather than make car warm for the occupant [human comfort doesn't count ]

TIA

I have a 2018 CX-9, and I live in an area where we tend to get really cold weather (-40c, sometimes even colder) often for long spells. With your temps, if you have no issues with the initial start, you can pretty much start it and go. My usual routine is start the car, unplug the block heater (if plugged in), brush off any snow/ice, get in the car and belt up, set seat heater/heated steering wheel, adjust HVAC (if necessary). I usually leave my HVAC on AUTO with recirculate off, and I rarely ever have to defrost my windows. Once I'm on the road I just keep it under 3-4k RPM until the coolant temp gauge is out of the blue (usually within 3-5 mins, but sometimes longer when it's really cold out). I do this regardless of what the temp outside is.

That's what I've been doing for my last few cars, all of them ran/run great. My wife has always been a little harder on her 06 Civic, she would literally start it up, slam it into gear and go. but her car is now 16 years old with over 200k on the odometer and it doesn't burn or leak any oil, and the transmission shifts great.

 

[Mazdiod2]

The blue cold light goes off at 130F, so it's not a good indicator of much.

It seems like the heater and defrost work better. I have the Scangauge so I can see the temperature. I guess the blue light is ( a little) better than nothing.

 

[sugob]

Thanks everyone for the feedback - it's informative that most are quoting shorter wait times [< 3 mins] after starting than I'd thought for ~0-31°F mornings [when I might be de-icing after starting anyway]. The remote start also prevents from being tempted/accidentally reving the engine when at it's coldest [just after start]

 

[minnesotaart]

Minnesota here, gets way colder here than where you are. I just get in, start it up, buckle up and go; fastest way to heat it up. Never had any issues or problems. Runs great after 90K+ miles and 9 winters.

 

[AL Cx5]

This an old thread with excellent info.

I'm considering adding a stick on oil pan heater. Mostly to improve FE and open up the clearances on the bottom end more quickly. Maybe remove a freeze plug down the road for a block heater....

I notice in balmy 45F conditions, it took the car close to 50 miles on the interstate before fuel milage started to increase on the Lie O Meter, LOM.

I have two oil pan and block heater on my Cummins diesel. I notice a difference in FE with and without pre heating in all ambient temps.

Anyone else using an oil pan heater and notice a difference?

 

[GFrosty]

Wondering if there was a preferred method to warm the car after car sitting outside overnight in sub freezing temps, say if it dipped to lower in the 0-31°F range [-18 - 0°C]
e.g. run engine [without revving it] for 5 mins - is longer better?

I don't know if it's a "preferred" method, but here's what I do when it's sub-30°F:

• Start the car, then let it idle until the first drop of the rpms.
• Depress the throttle for another 60 seconds at 1800-2000 rpms.
• Drive somewhat sedately (ie, no highway onramps or speeds, or hard acceleration) until the little blue indicator light goes out.
• The transmission/diff will still be colder, and I won't push it for awhile if it's been cold.

More or less, this has been how I've done it on the past four or five vehicles, when temps dip to sub-freezing.

 

[wlong01]

Not sure if it would make any difference but logically it sounds like it would.
Since the heater pulls heat from the engine don't turn the heater on until the engine has warmed sufficiently. Should allow the engine to warm a little faster although it might be negligible.

 

[AL Cx5]

I just found a new Mazda block heater kit, 0000-88-CX5A-CA, on eBay for $59.00 shipped.

At that price, I'll take a chance and install a block heater kit. It looks like a straight forward install.

I'll use a timer to pre heat a couple hours in the AM...

The seller has 8 more kits left.

Mazda 0000-88-CX5A-CA Engine Block Heater CX-5 115V, 400 W | eBay

 

[Odrapnew]

This an old thread with excellent info.

I'm considering adding a stick on oil pan heater. Mostly to improve FE and open up the clearances on the bottom end more quickly. Maybe remove a freeze plug down the road for a block heater....

I notice in balmy 45F conditions, it took the car close to 50 miles on the interstate before fuel milage started to increase on the Lie O Meter, LOM.

I have two oil pan and block heater on my Cummins diesel. I notice a difference in FE with and without pre heating in all ambient temps.

Anyone else using an oil pan heater and notice a difference?

I'd be curious to know if that stick on heater would make a noticeable difference.
In your Cummins, are the 2 oil pan heaters the stick on type?
I'm genuinely curious since oil takes longer to heat up than coolant, so getting the oil a head start is a good thing. With my old Golf R, it had an oil temp gauge, which easily took 2x longer to get to full temp vs. the coolant on cold days.

50 miles in 45F temp seems excessive to me though.

I can definitely tell a difference in cold weather and using more fuel initially, but even on really cold days, doesn't take more than 15 miles to get nice and stable in my vehicles. My drive to work is about 18 miles.

Not sure if it would make any difference but logically it sounds like it would.
Since the heater pulls heat from the engine don't turn the heater on until the engine has warmed sufficiently. Should allow the engine to warm a little faster although it might be negligible.

It's likely minimal, but you are right.
Heater core is basically a mini radiator, so the more/colder air you flow across it, the more heat is removed from cooling system.



Oh, and to add to the subject of this thread, I typically let it idle until rpm drop down from high idle and then drive easy for a few miles if I can. Remember, idling the engine doesn't heat other parts of the drivetrain like front/rear diffs. Transmission will warm up a little bit while idling, but not as quickly as the engine.

 

[AL Cx5]

I'd be curious to know if that stick on heater would make a noticeable difference.
In your Cummins, are the 2 oil pan heaters the stick on type?
I'm genuinely curious since oil takes longer to heat up than coolant, so getting the oil a head start is a good thing. With my old Golf R, it had an oil temp gauge, which easily took 2x longer to get to full temp vs. the coolant on cold days.

50 miles in 45F temp seems excessive to me though.

I can definitely tell a difference in cold weather and using more fuel initially, but even on really cold days, doesn't take more than 15 miles to get nice and stable in my vehicles. My drive to work is about 18 miles.



It's likely minimal, but you are right.
Heater core is basically a mini radiator, so the more/colder air you flow across it, the more heat is removed from cooling system.

Oh, and to add to the sub

ject of this thread, I typically lRememberet it idle until rpm drop down from high idle and then drive easy for a few miles if I can. , idling the engine doesn't heat other parts of the drivetrain like front/rear diffs. Transmission will warm up a little bit while idling, but not as quicklyas the engine.

My 06 Ram/Cummins doesn't have an oil temp sensor. I have crawled under the truck and can feel the oil pan is warming the 3 gallons of oil. I have used magnetic heaters on my race car. It has an oil temp sensor and I have noted an increase in oil temp. My race car burns Methanol or nitromethane/methanol blend that is hard to light off when the engine is below 60F. Sometimes we start it on gas and switch to Methanol...

I installed a separate oil pressure gauge/sensor on my Ram. The factory gauge is a faux gauge or pressure switch. Oil pressure stays at 75 PSI much longer when I don't preheat the oil. After about 45 miles the oil pressure settles down to about 50 PSI. It appears the magnetic heater is transferring heat to the oil pan. On the Cummins Forum a group of us actively work on improving FE of our trucks. We share ideas and modifications back and forth. Also, driving habits. Many of us have improved FE 30%. Many preheat the oil pan and coolant for a measurable improvement in start up FE.

Operating temperature: We are talking about the entire system, tires, wheel bearings, diff and such. My long haul trucker friend says they experience the same thing, 45 miles to get everything up to temp on big trucks too. I notice the LOM on my Ram starts climbing after about the same distance. I suggest you try this for yourself.

Heater Core: Since the thermostat does not open until the engine gets to the set point, the heater core has little to no effect on reducing the time for the engine to reach operating temperature.

I'll install the Mazda block heater kit in a few weeks and report back how it helps FE.

 

[Odrapnew]

My 06 Ram/Cummins doesn't have an oil temp sensor. I have crawled under the truck and can feel the oil pan is warming the 3 gallons of oil. I have used magnetic heaters on my race car. It has an oil temp sensor and I have noted an increase in oil temp. My race car burns Methanol or nitromethane/methanol blend that is hard to light off when the engine is below 60F. Sometimes we start it on gas and switch to Methanol...

I installed a separate oil pressure gauge/sensor on my Ram. The factory gauge is a faux gauge or pressure switch. Oil pressure stays at 75 PSI much longer when I don't preheat the oil. After about 45 miles the oil pressure settles down to about 50 PSI. It appears the magnetic heater is transferring heat to the oil pan. On the Cummins Forum a group of us actively work on improving FE of our trucks. We share ideas and modifications back and forth. Also, driving habits. Many of us have improved FE 30%. Many preheat the oil pan and coolant for a measurable improvement in start up FE.

Operating temperature: We are talking about the entire system, tires, wheel bearings, diff and such. My long haul trucker friend says they experience the same thing, 45 miles to get everything up to temp on big trucks too. I notice the LOM on my Ram starts climbing after about the same distance. I suggest you try this for yourself.

Heater Core: Since the thermostat does not open until the engine gets to the set point, the heater core has little to no effect on reducing the time for the engine to reach operating temperature.

I'll install the Mazda block heater kit in a few weeks and report back how it helps FE.

Racecar on Meth(anol) =

Operating Temp: Good point on all the other parts. Obviously engine and transmission are the big hitters, but all the other little things between the road and the engine impact FE.

Heater Core: I guess it depends on the vehicle. I know my 89 Mustang (yes, old) has the heater core bypass before the thermostat, so it's pumping coolant through the heater core all the time, regardless of thermostat position. Not sure on newer cars if they block off heater core as well during warmup. In any case, the size of the heater core is tiny compared to the actual coolant radiator, so the impact to warmup speed is minimal.

Also, while on the topic of fuel efficiency, don't forget the other features that 'suck power' like HVAC fan blasting full speed, heated seats/steering wheel, rear window and side mirror defrost. Those add electrical load and reduce FE as well.

 

[N7turbo]

Heater Core: I guess it depends on the vehicle. I know my 89 Mustang (yes, old) has the heater core bypass before the thermostat, so it's pumping coolant through the heater core all the time, regardless of thermostat position. Not sure on newer cars if they block off heater core as well during warmup.

They do. Usually, the rule of thumb is if you have the blue water icon, you won't get heat yet.

Also, while on the topic of fuel efficiency, don't forget the other features that 'suck power' like HVAC fan blasting full speed, heated seats/steering wheel, rear window and side mirror defrost. Those add electrical load and reduce FE as well.

Electrical load won't reduce mileage unless you drive an EV.

 

[RL911]

Regardless of temp, I let the car idle until RPMs drop (about 30 secs) and I don’t use the heat until the blue light goes off, about a mile drive.