Best bang for the buck suspension upgrade (for the MSP)?

I wouldnt't get sleeves.... save and get real coilovers with matched spring/strut rates.

I'm looking into D2's myself.
 
sickspeed94 said:
definate downfall is the noise the GC's and S2's make... but durring the install of the illuminas i'm gonna try to remedy it.

what noise and what remedy :wink: im getting GC prety soon.
 
sabishii said:
But wouldn't just getting stiffer springs instead of the GC springs + adjustment be just as worthwhile, plus costing less?

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

Cheaper but not the same. There is no springs you can buy that have heigh adjustability and 350 lbs up front and 250 lbs inthe back. The most would be 180-200 up front....better but thats barely noticable. 400+ is race spec. 200-300 is streetable. D1 drift cars have 895 lbs/in springs...thats like 0 body roll...thats like fliping over when you hit a rock because the car does not give. 6 tiems stiffer then our stock set up. Watch a D1 car drive...on rails and 0 give.

bascially springs are to lower the car and prove a slightly firmer ride. But GC you will definately notice the differnce becuase its stiffer then any spring package you can get.

If you can afford it go with a full coilover system. I just want firmer springs and some height control. Ksport is a great bang for buck deal...you gt dampening and height adjustability + camber plates and urethan bushings.
 
FBI14 said:
The KW Variant 2's that Dave from Delsing Motorsports used sounded really great, but they were expensive

only problem is some people say stay away from progessive spring rates. The rear springs on the KWs have 2 spring rates. When you go in a straight line you use the top of the spring which is soft to give you a more comfortable ride. But when you turn you use the whole spring which is stiffer to prevent body roll.

I like those coilovers alot...I just dont like the rear progressive spring rates. I like linear...because its easier to predict. I dont know if the average driver would care.
 
hehe... definately on-rails. ;)
I got the eibach sportlines. Definately onrails x2.


daedalus said:
Ditto. K-Sport is the best option for performance, looks, and price. You'll spend close to that amount on springs/struts or crappier solutions (i.e. sqeeka-a-thon GC's) with 1/4 of the perfomance or adjustability.

K-Sport + GT SPEC = ON RAILS. I am going to do the awr rear sway as well... should tighten the car up even more (if thats even possible).
 
tire & alignment is the best bang for the buck, unless you want a monster handling machine. MSP is a great handling car, a good set of tires with proper alignment will give you hours of pleasure. GC and other just accentuate the great MSP handling, if you can dial it in correctly
 
Yea, if you can't max out the OEM suspension, a good alignment and tires will make the most noticable diff. If you need something more than OEM, I still suggest the Ground Controls due to increased spring and ride height/corner balance(CG) adjustability. On the street, you really don't need more than the OEM suspension as far as handling goes, looks is another concern.
 
My mazdaspeed adjustable struts with goldline springs seem to work very well. The car is only properly dampered on the softest setting in the rear and is over-dampered with anything above the first setting out of the 5 available in the rear, but that's because of the weak spring rate of any replacement spring available for the protege. However, it handles VERY well with this combo, and rotates very easy with the use of the brake pedal. I believe the Goldlines are linear in the front and progressive in the rear. I did a lot of searching, and found that some state the above it true, and some believe that both front and rear are progress. However, the front spring definitely looks linear to me. The car has almost no dive/squat/lean with the fronts set @2 out of 4 and rears set @2 out of 5. If you go with the Tokico Illuminas, you'll be able to dial in the suspension just like you need it between the 5 settings. I like my Goldline springs for their performance and the look of the stance :)
 
CustomMSP said:
My mazdaspeed adjustable struts with goldline springs seem to work very well. The car is only properly dampered on the softest setting in the rear and is over-dampered with anything above the first setting out of the 5 available in the rear, but that's because of the weak spring rate of any replacement spring available for the protege. However, it handles VERY well with this combo, and rotates very easy with the use of the brake pedal. I believe the Goldlines are linear in the front and progressive in the rear. I did a lot of searching, and found that some state the above it true, and some believe that both front and rear are progress. However, the front spring definitely looks linear to me. The car has almost no dive/squat/lean with the fronts set @2 out of 4 and rears set @2 out of 5. If you go with the Tokico Illuminas, you'll be able to dial in the suspension just like you need it between the 5 settings. I like my Goldline springs for their performance and the look of the stance :)


well put i heart my GC's and illuminas... by the way, i found out how to kill the above noise stated by me about the GC coilovers (and probably S2's as well)... PM me for details and maybe i'll do a writeup.
 
K, so I should be aiming for K-sports and GT-specs.

I was just thinking and wondered, is a beefier rear sway bar really beneficial? I mean, Mazdaspeed has already tuned the car so it has pretty neutral handling - I myself have experienced lift-off oversteer - so wouldn't a bigger RSB make it oversteer too much and thus actually make it handle worse? Perhaps getting a bigger front sway bar would be necessary with the RSB... And on that, how come there's no aftermarket FRONT sway bars?
 
sabishii said:
K, so I should be aiming for K-sports and GT-specs.

I was just thinking and wondered, is a beefier rear sway bar really beneficial? I mean, Mazdaspeed has already tuned the car so it has pretty neutral handling - I myself have experienced lift-off oversteer - so wouldn't a bigger RSB make it oversteer too much and thus actually make it handle worse? Perhaps getting a bigger front sway bar would be necessary with the RSB... And on that, how come there's no aftermarket FRONT sway bars?

Yes... the AWR 21.5mm is a great way to go. Its what i plan on adding very soon. Bigger front is only gonna make you understeer more... I would prefer more turn in and oversteer in my handling, and the AWR will give you just a hint more while still making the car feel much more planted and stable.
 
i dont know much about handling mods, but wouldnt subframe connectors be a good way to start? and that way you arent replacing the "stock aftermarket" suspension that you just paid for? I guess it depends what you want out of the car and what you are looking to spend, but u guys got any input on them for the MS as a good first mod?
 
i still love my GC's/Illumina's they handle great and seem to be lasting. i'd go with an AWR rear bar, the sleeves, shocks, and some mean tires and a good alignment.
 
There Are A Ton Of Different Aspects To A Good Handling Car.....
Drivetrain Slop, Tires, Spring Rates, Dampening/rebound Rates, Sway Bars, Chassis Stiffness, Alignment Specs, And The Most Important Driver Ability.

On A Fwd Car Drivetrain Slop Can Cause Huge Amounts Of Understeer Or Snap Oversteer Depending On When It Rears Its Ugly Head. If Your Engine/trans Is Planted And Not Moving Much It Will Make The Front Tires Have More Grip And Less Hop Under Hard Cornering And Acceleration.

In All Cars Getting A Sticky Set Of Tires Will Be A Night And Day Experience. I Bet If You Went With Tires That Were Better Than The Stocks Like The Bfg Kdw2, Azenis, Kumho Mx, Parada Spec-2, Gs-d3, Etc. You Would Notice A World Of Difference In Edge Line Abilities And Road Holding Capabilities.... Although You Could Never Drive The Car At 10/10's With These. If You Went To Victoracers, Toyo Competition Tires, Hoosiers, Etc. These Would Increase The Cars Abilities Ten Fold If Not More. Tires Are The Biggest Bang For The Buck And A Essential Part To Any Combo!

Strut/spring Assemblies Play A Big Role In Handling And Control.... And Yes You Can Over Do It. You Need To Find The Proper Set Up To What You Plan On Doing (sport Driving, Daily Driving, Auto-x, Time Trials, Etc.) And Just Remember If You Over Do It You Could Be Hurting Performance By Overstressing Tires, Lifting Wheels On Hard Corners, Creating Understeer With Too Much Stiffness, Etc. This Area Of Upgrades Should Be Addressed After Your Entire System Is Designed So That You Can Match Your Strut/spring Assembly To Your Car And Not Adapt Your Car To The Strut/spring Assembly You Chose.

Sway Bars Are Essentially An Extra Spring...... These Bars Swing Into Action When There Is Any Difference Between The Left And Right Corners. The Sway Bar Increases The Spring Rates To Reduce Body Roll And Keep The Tires Planted To The Road. But, If You Over Do It You Could Lift A Wheel Under Hard Cornering And Create Understeer. This Mod Is Very Important And Can Make A Huge Difference In Performance Handling And Can Actually Increase Your Cars Abilities Even With Stock Springs. There Are Also A Ton Of Different Types Of Sway Bars: Hollow, Solid, Progressive, Adjustable, Etc. They All Have Their Own Pros And Cons That You Should Research Before Making A Decision.

Chassis Stiffness Plays A Huge Role.... Think Of Your Car As A Giant Slinky That Will Move In Any Direction When Pushed. Your Car Will Twist And Stretch Counteracting What Your Suspension Is Trying To Do. If You Increase Ridgity Your Car Will Increase Its Road Holding Abilities And Let Your Suspension Do Its Job. You Really Can't Over Do This But There Is A Point Where There Is No Need For More. Like You Really Don't Need A 100-pt Roll Cage, And A Complete Underbody Cage, Etc. Because There Is No Need For All That Weight And Tension.

Driver Ability And Alignment Are Huge Roles In Handling.... These Two Should Go Together Because Everyone Is Different And Every Driver Will Have Different Alignments To Maximize Their Abilities. Proper Specs On These Only Come With Seat Time. There Is No Way For Anyone To Tell You What Alignment Specs To Choose, They Can Only Give You Ranges And Help You Dial In Whats Comfortable To Your Driving Style.
 
I'm thinking of going with the GCs... But I don't really want a drop, so what's the min. drop that they have? And would I need stronger struts, too (also considering that I'll be keeping it as close to stock height as possible)?
 
jeffmsp said:
i dont know much about handling mods, but wouldnt subframe connectors be a good way to start? and that way you arent replacing the "stock aftermarket" suspension that you just paid for? I guess it depends what you want out of the car and what you are looking to spend, but u guys got any input on them for the MS as a good first mod?
Thank you! When I put SfCs in my SHO it changed the car... rattles and squeeks were reduced by half and the car handled much better. Our MSPs are a bit stiffer, but I'll bet good money that they'd help our cars out. I keep meaning to call some places around here and get some made/put on, but I don't have much time off to do that. Anyway, if there are some SfCs already made for us, then I'd get 'em in a heart beat.
 
Zhan said:
K, so I should be aiming for K-sports and GT-specs.

I was just thinking and wondered, is a beefier rear sway bar really beneficial? I mean, Mazdaspeed has already tuned the car so it has pretty neutral handling - I myself have experienced lift-off oversteer - so wouldn't a bigger RSB make it oversteer too much and thus actually make it handle worse? Perhaps getting a bigger front sway bar would be necessary with the RSB... And on that, how come there's no aftermarket FRONT sway bars?

If you want I'll be having a hell of a install day in Orlando. D2 coilovers, Unichip, Break rotors, Nology hotwires, GT spec stuff, CP racing stuff, SS breaklines, break pads and spark plugs
 
Back