BA, JL, or Focal for the $$$

[parks853]

the impedance is basically the resistance. the more resistance the more resistive it is. so 8ohms makes it harder for the current to flow than 4 ohms does. so if you have 2ohms the current can flow even easier. so more current. power is current times voltage. so if you have a smaller resistance then you get more current.. which = more power. and current is very important to a speaker. the flow of the current through the voice coils (which is where the impedance comes from) is what makes the speaker move and makes the sound. that is why you have ot check the 'ohms' when you are setting up your system. you want to get an amp that can handle your impedance, and give you the power you want. cause the specs will say "800 watts" but if you look close that maybe at 2 ohms. and maybe your sub can only present a 4ohm load. which means less current flow which means less power which means not the 800 watts that was advertised.

I think your sub has a 4ohm VC. but not sure.. let us know.. it will make it easier to help with the amp selection..

 

[sndsgood]

yes mbauarts are designed for off axis. but that is the speaker in relationship to the listener, generally in any installation you want teh mid and tweet to be on axis with themselves. when iwas running my mb quart 2-way setup i made a bridge to mount the tweeter over top of the mid. will give u a bit better sound and takes up less mounting space.

 

[FoxPro5]

yes mbauarts are designed for off axis. but that is the speaker in relationship to the listener, generally in any installation you want teh mid and tweet to be on axis with themselves. when iwas running my mb quart 2-way setup i made a bridge to mount the tweeter over top of the mid. will give u a bit better sound and takes up less mounting space.

Ok, so if you are going to mount the tweet right over the mid why not just buy coaxial's? Or do the seperates have a better crossover? (confused)

Also, my sub is 4 ohm (SVC) with 350 RMS and 1400 peak. The specs on my amp are as follows:

-14.4V RMS Continuous Power 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 65Wx4 4ohm; Bridged (0.3% THD) 130Wx2
-12V RMS Continuous Power 4ohm; Stereo (0.08% THD) 35Wx4 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 45Wx4 4ohm; Bridged (0.3% THD) 90Wx2

So, the way i read this (please correct me if I'm wrong) is that in a 3 channel set up my fronts will get 65W ea from the front channels and my sub will get 260W if I bridged the back channels??? Is this under-powering if the Quarts (pce 216) want 60-130W?? Should I even be concerned with matching the recommended power to these speakers or could I just try and see how it sounds?? I don't need monster bass....I want clean, accurate sound!

What do you recommend? I really appreciate the input, thanks.

 

[Poseur]

My general take on this is that alot of it has to do with the crossovers. Even like with my infinity kappa's that have an external crossover, it's a pretty weak one with a very mellow slope. But,really most coax's just have a small "cap" to block low freq from the tweeter, and thats about it. Another thing that seems to come into play is that sometimes coax's extra junk to mount the tweeter with gets in the way of the midrange being constructed properly.

The one thing in my head about making a bridge for your tweet over your mid isthat this for one blocks thatmuch of the sound coming off the mid, and reflects it back at the speaker which may throw off your midrange accuracy. Again, this is in my head, and perhaps it's not actually the case, but you do see some manufacturers talkinga bout designing their coax's sothat the tweeter post does not reflect soundwaves back into the cone.

As for your amp situation. for one I think you shoudl check the numbers on the outputs again, I'm gonna ssume that it's 45wattsRMS x4 a4 4 ohms. and 130wRMS x2 bridged at 4ohms. I'm afraid you may be a bit underpowered. This will give you 130w to your sub. and 45 to each of your quarts. Basically think of your 4ch amp as 2 2channel amps, a front and a rear portion. Each with a normal output of 45w per channel at 4ohms if I'm not mistaken. If you bridge the rear portion you get 130w at 4ohms ANd I'd assume your amp is not stable for any lower resitance than 4ohm bridged. Now with the front, running 2ohms (which is likely the 65wx4 output) really isn't much of an option as your speakers are 4ohm, unless you want to run your rear doors in paralell as well but this isn't adviseable on multiple levels, so your'e stuck with that 45w if that is correct.

Nowthen, Everyhtign WILL all work, just be a bit lacking in power for what your system can handle. Don't take this as an invite to crank everythign up all the way, though you'd be asking from trouble there as it's just as easy to blow speakers with not enough power but distorted as it is toomuch.

Fortunately there's a fairly simple solution for you. You COULD take the amp you have, and bridge the front channels to run for your left speaker and bridge the rears to run your right, This will give you 130w at 4ohms for each of your front speakers, and then all you'll need isto get a different sub-amp

 

[FoxPro5]

Thanks Poseur, that's what I'll probably do...get a sub amp. The numbers posted are from Alpine's website and are accurate.

So I've heard you say that putting the amp under the seat is the way to go as others have not advised this due to the fact that there is too much moisture under there. I just don't want the amps in the way all the time. I was actually thinking of mounting them on a piece of MDF and then securing that somewhere in the hatch. Any other options here, I'd like to be able to move them and my sub in and out when needed.....

 

[Poseur]

I've NEVER had a problem running under-seat amps for the past 6years. in other cars as well. The one possible moisture problem is if someone spills a drink. Even in this case, the likelyhood of it getting onto the amp is pretty slim to none. There's LOTS of room under our seats for amps (especially that one) and especially if you Just at least put your front speaker amp under say your passenger seat, It's a spot that you'd likely never use for anythign else. The rear-seat vents can very easily just blow right over the top of an amp. Thusly everything functions as normal, nothing's in the way of anythign else, and you've just freed up extra space. Granted it's a cruddy spot if you want to dress thigns up and make it all look pretty, but form a sheer function perspective I'd call it ideal. Added bonus, you've got shorter wires to everything and thus less money wrapped up in wiring, etc. Let me know if you need more information on this. I managed to fit 2 rather large amps under my seats without a problem very cleanly, and better yet, from a security standpoint, noone will ever know they're there, or be able to get them out ever without pulling my seats out as well.

As far as power ratings, I guess the only confusing thing to me here is the 12v ratings and the omission of 4ohm stereo ratings for 14.4v which is what I'm assuming to be 45w. Of course I was also kinda of reatarded when I wrote that as I'd just woke up a bit hungover at the time.

But yes, definately aleast hook everything up as-is and see if it's enough to satisfy you. Even if it isn't, It'll get you by nicely until you manage to find another amp and get the money together for it. The only wiring change you'll want to make for that alpine amp is to definately pull wire through your doors if you're running much more than 50w.

 

[sndsgood]

poseur hit it pretty good. crossovers, this is half the reason componets sound so much better the crossovers are better designed, the other reason is better materials are made using the componet set versus the co-axial. wich most companies realis are for people who just want to drop in a speaker for a little better sound.. as for blocking the sounds, if say u have a 4" mid and a 2" tweet i wouldn't suggest it, but for a good 6.5" and a decent sized tweet, any downfall of having the tweet slightly block the sound i feel will be overshadowed by the better sound u get from having it mounted this way. allot of problems with having the tweet in a diffrent location as the mid is when u get to the edge of the soundtage. with most people staging, allot of times the highs will sort of fall off at the edges of the soundstage, i feel u will have just the opposite problem with your tweets up high. your highs will be staged really high on the outter edges of the stage and drop down towards the center.

 

[FoxPro5]

Well after a lot of research, listening to your opinions and listening to speakers I decided to go with the Quarts (Premium 6.5"). They ended up to work the best for my situation and for my budget.

I got them today and I am very impressed...them German's really know how to put together a speaker. The crossovers are incredible...they weigh more than the damn speakers!! They will definately have to go inside the door pockets.

Now all i need is a few days in the 40's or so and my system will be big pimpin(nana) Put my HU in the other day and it's pretty mint (can't believe i just said that).

I'm sure i'll have more questions as i get deeper into the project. A special thanks to servo, parks, poseur, chopstick, sndsgood and others who have given me invaluable advice..you guys rock(bow)

 

[parks853]

Well after a lot of research, listening to your opinions and listening to speakers I decided to go with the Quarts (Premium 6.5"). They ended up to work the best for my situation and for my budget.

I got them today and I am very impressed...them German's really know how to put together a speaker. The crossovers are incredible...they weigh more than the damn speakers!! They will definately have to go inside the door pockets.

Now all i need is a few days in the 40's or so and my system will be big pimpin(nana) Put my HU in the other day and it's pretty mint (can't believe i just said that).

I'm sure i'll have more questions as i get deeper into the project. A special thanks to servo, parks, poseur, chopstick, sndsgood and others who have given me invaluable advice..you guys rock(bow)

glad I could help. and also glad we helped you find a product that you are happy with. We will be here if you need help with the install. it is pretty easy. there is alot of stuff about adapter plates and stuff for the 6.5's. servo is making some now. and I have posted pics and a how to on the ones I made. just let us know when you are ready. sure we can help.

 

[Poseur]

Well after a lot of research, listening to your opinions and listening to speakers I decided to go with the Quarts (Premium 6.5"). They ended up to work the best for my situation and for my budget.

I got them today and I am very impressed...them German's really know how to put together a speaker. The crossovers are incredible...they weigh more than the damn speakers!! They will definately have to go inside the door pockets.

Now all i need is a few days in the 40's or so and my system will be big pimpin(nana) Put my HU in the other day and it's pretty mint (can't believe i just said that).

I'm sure i'll have more questions as i get deeper into the project. A special thanks to servo, parks, poseur, chopstick, sndsgood and others who have given me invaluable advice..you guys rock(bow)

Isn't it nice to know you've done all your homework and got EXACTLY what you want? I wish I was wise enough to consult with these guys and go listne to speakers BEFORE I took the cop-out route. Ah well. All I need is my tax return and those Focals are MINE. Feel you on the weather thing, BTW> it's been either below freezing or raining here forlike the past 2months. FOrtunately I don't really have much to do but chase rattles.

 

[sndsgood]

no prob. give yourself a few days to get used to the tweets and then evaluate the sound again. so if u need to adjust the crossover u can.