AWR Sway bar Pics!

[MikeBlueP5]

OK heres the pics, sorry about the size and all, but if i resize them anymore the quality turns to s***. They are already resized from down from 5 MP. Also if you see anything that looks out of whack lemme know. Thanks!

 

[Stealth5]

it looks good to me, except for how weird the struts look with the GC's on them, im used to seeing regular springs.

is there no place for the dust covers?

 

[macklum]

Take your rear sway bar blocks apart again and use antisieze in the threads of the bolts . This will help if you have to take them apart later .

 

[Mike R]

Looks good. The sliders are kinda close to the control arms though, it'll probably rub. And I would swap the bolt around on the strut end of the tie rod.


Screw anti-sieze. Go get some stainless steel allen bolts. The bolts that came with the sliders are really low grade.

 

[mazda808]

by moving the links between the arms, he means that you can detach the clamshell link on the bar (the black rectangle), and position it so the endlink runs between the arms on the suspension's lateral link. the bar isn't really designed to be used that way and having it that stiff might get you into trouble on the street, but it's apparently the way to go for autoX.



it can on some cars*, but it also helps the car turn in a lot faster. depends on what you're looking for. with the 21.5 bar in the rear, a bigger front bar will probably not introduce any understeer problems. you'll probably appreciate the quick turn-in response more than the slight tail-happiness at the limit anyway.

(in reality, if you're understeering a protege on the street, you need to slow down.)

*some FWD cars, like the neon, understeer less w/ a bigger front bar.

I ran my setup with the links between the arms for months with no problems. I even ran my teins with 7kg rear springs. The car was neutral most of the time with a little oversteer once in a while but I find oversteer easier to control than understeer.

 

[MikeBlueP5]

yup mike i did have to go back and loosen the links just a tad because they were rubbing a little bit when i first put them on, everything is good now but they are really close! And as far as the stainless bolts, do you know what size cause i will def do that! and as far and the bolt on the strut end of the link, i thought about turning it around, but it doesnt rub anything, i guess when i get stainless bolts for the sliders ill swap em around. I am also waiting on my front adjustable links from AWR they were supposed to ship on the 10th which means they wouldve been here by now so i guess i will email them about that. I am running the shocks at 3 front and 4 rear, i am also thinking of trading out the GCs for some regular springs, i want these struts to last a little longer than the last ones!! Any suggestions? Should i keep the coilovers? I like the height i am at, and i know the prokit is about the same. I have never seen a tein lowered p5 in person (just springs/not CO's)

Stealth-nope no room for any dust sheilds. I thought about fashioning one myself but i was too tired to mess with them anymore. I might do something in the future. Also did you figure out what your noise was from the other post? I have no noises except the right front coilover tophat squeaks on the spring, but thats normal.

 

[CustomMSP]

Looks like you have very little suspension travel with those GCs

 

[vindication]

subscribing because I will be getting this soon and installing it after winter. Has anyone asked Tony wether it is better or the same or worse to run the endlinks behind or infront of the control arms?

 

[dmitrik4]

what sort of spring rates are you running on those GCs?

 

[Mike R]

1/4"-20 about an inch long. Really common easy size to find. I got mine at Home Depot.

I also was running 3F/4R. good setup. I had my bar set about 6"-7" from the end of the bar. That sets it inbetween the control arms. It was awesome though, lift throttle oversteer was nice an predictable. I took all my AWR sway bar stuff off for the winter. What a pig this thing is stock...

I don't think the illuminas will be hurt by the GC's, they are designed for a higher rate spring than stock.

 

[MikeBlueP5]

There is room for suspension travel, maybe not as much as say a set of eibach lowering springs but there is, and as far as the spring rates i think they are listed on the GC website. I havent checked in a while so i dont remember.

 

[proman]

according to the spring buying guide it's Front 350 lbs/in and Rear 215 lbs/inch.

 

[323CiP5]

cant wait to get one

 

[Stealth5]

according to the spring buying guide it's Front 350 lbs/in and Rear 215 lbs/inch.

he asked because you can get custom rates made

 

[Brian MP5T]

What is this...Screw The Anti Sieze thing?

It's a good idea!

 

[dmitrik4]

anti-seize is ALWAYS a good idea.

he asked because you can get custom rates made

yup. for autoX, i don't think i'd want less than 400lb/in in the rear (probably more like 400f/500r). the only coilovers available w/ the right balance of rear spring seem to be the AWRs.

mmm, custom bilsteins.

for street only, totally different.

 

[proman]

yup i was aware that you can get custom rates. the vendors usually just have the standard rates i listed unless you order directly from ground control if you're getting them new.

 

[dmitrik4]

you can also just buy the springs themselves individually.

 

[Mike R]

What is this...Screw The Anti Sieze thing?

It's a good idea!

Don't need it with stainless hardware. Only the crap it came with needs anti-sieze.

 

[Brian MP5T]

subscribing because I will be getting this soon and installing it after winter. Has anyone asked Tony wether it is better or the same or worse to run the endlinks behind or infront of the control arms?

Any info on where the F-Ing thing is supposed to go?