AWR and VF engineering

three

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Mazda 3
I have the AWR motor mount. Is the VF engineering mount the same as the AWR or are they different?
 
I believe the VR mounts were not the correct ones for the 3...at least at first they were for the 6 or something. Plus they are more $$

I like my awr, even more so now.
 
I drilled a few holes in mine to soften it up a bit...really smoothed out the idle. Got kinda annoying sitting in traffic for a few hours.
 
Yeah I was totally used to it til one day in traffic. I think the fact I was pissed off because I was going .2 mph for a few hours made me edgy. Plus I was tired and sore, and the vibration of when you try to keep the rpms low when stopped and starting to go got to me.
 
Yeah it just seems like the sound or vibration that it makes is just the right pitch or vibration to mess with your ears and give you a headache. And i have an auto so evertime i stop its bad unless i put it in neutral.
 
WetsuitxNinja said:
I drilled a few holes in mine to soften it up a bit...really smoothed out the idle. Got kinda annoying sitting in traffic for a few hours.

Did you get the 70 durometer or the 88?

Unless that VF mount is different than the one in their picture, it's wrong for the Mazda3.
 
I have no idea which one i got because when i ordered it, it didnt give me a choice or maybe it did i just missed it. But i ordered it from protegegarage.
 
what is the diff between the 70 durometer and the 88... one is softer ? Which one is better... in what way? Thanks
 
lol... yeah it says 88 for race use only and they aren't foolin around! even if you autox or drag unless its a dedicated race car you don't need the 88
 
Your girlfriend will all of a sudden want to ride in your car more often. Next thing you know the ONLY place she will want to have sex is in your car with it running, with the A\C on.
 
better make the best of that mount before it completely breaks in.

you should see how nice the engine moves once a D70 finally gets broken in. When I was dyno'ing with the timing mod, the engine just nudged during a shift (you really had to keep from blinking to see it just nudge a little), and when WOT'd but that was during the break in period.

Quote from: thebeansoldier on March 16, 2006, 06:27:42 PM
done. 5:53-6:23 30 minutes (didn't put the right time i started, oops)!. i didn't remove that gun thing cause i'm lazy. whew! my elbow joints hurt like hell moving the engine back and forth.

EDIT: got to drive around for a few minutes... vibration can be felt on my seat, steering wheel, knob, pedal, floor (thank god no dash creaking-- yet). it feels like driving my friend's ol' buick! i can live with that for a few days. but this means i can't go creaking up hills for a while (or that might break it in sooner?). it BETTER break in. i finally get to clutch out even faster. I guess it's not so bad i paid MSRP.

Quote from: thebeansoldier on March 22, 2006, 05:33:15 PM
saw the AWR do it's work in a dyno... the engine probably bucks like an inch now instead of 2 or 3 like it once did.

Dyno on 5/4? I found out why shifting wasn't the same as it once was during the break in period-- the engine bucked like it was still on the stock mount. I really wanted to take a video but the lighting in the dyno area is so bad. I do have a video of it during the timing mod dyno tho. My suggestion if you haven't bought it yet? Get 88.
 
I noticed the same thing bean, shifting went back to the stock feel but it still vibrated the same as the day I got it. I drilled some holes in it, doesnt vibrate, I didnt get to peek at my engine movement at wot before or after the holes but I was over the vibrations anyway.
 
Ive herd of people replacing the inserts with a solid metal insert? I would think that that would create an ungodly vibration but have any of yall herd of that? And what is yalls opinion on it?
 
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