Recently when getting new tires the shop showed me that rear right shock mount is busted. Guess after 12 years and northeast US salt this is bound to happen. They also said the link pin needs replacement - that's something I'm not quite sure about. what does the 247 collective wisdom think? also this should be a easy enough DIY job right? Just replacing with OEM-level KYB part, nothing fancy. I'm okay-ish handy when it comes to my CX-5 - did rear brakes as well as oil change before, not much of a big deal. Have floor jack/stands.
2013~2016 AWD CX-5 Replacing Rear Shocks - Questions
- Thread starter hxdai
- Start date
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- Denver, CO
Ouch, hurts just looking at that rust. I haven't done the rears on my 2014 but I've seen a few videos. I imagine the hardest part will be getting out the rusted bolts.
yieldchase
2016.5 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Is the shock ok? You could just change the mounting?
Changing the mounting only could work but it will be awkward because of the shock wanting to be upright while you are maneuvering it. Having someone hold the shock retracted (or something) could help with change. However, if you need to take off the shock from the knuckle ... you may or may not have a decent battle with the mounting bolt to the knuckle and rust.
I did this last year and it took some not so kind words, time, heat, grinder, and a long pipe wrench -- What have you done to your CX-5 today?
Changing links is not bad. Tight space if you got big hands. Looks like you may need to do some cutting or melting.
Good luck
Changing the mounting only could work but it will be awkward because of the shock wanting to be upright while you are maneuvering it. Having someone hold the shock retracted (or something) could help with change. However, if you need to take off the shock from the knuckle ... you may or may not have a decent battle with the mounting bolt to the knuckle and rust.
I did this last year and it took some not so kind words, time, heat, grinder, and a long pipe wrench -- What have you done to your CX-5 today?
Changing links is not bad. Tight space if you got big hands. Looks like you may need to do some cutting or melting.
Good luck
Cant really tell if the shocks are bad - although I would think with the broken mount, the bumper wouldn't save the shock piston if I hit a pothole and bottoms it out (could very well be the reason why mount broke). With new tires now the car rides fine.
I could just change the mount and keep the bumper if I have to, but figured might as well get the whole thing done - bumper feels much rougher/harder than I expected, guess it's from all the salt/heat
I could just change the mount and keep the bumper if I have to, but figured might as well get the whole thing done - bumper feels much rougher/harder than I expected, guess it's from all the salt/heat
I'd hope so, but the exposed part of shock tip seems to have rusted as well, and I'm having a very hard time trying to push rubber bumper back into the mount - feels like the bumper has expanded somehow - guess I'll just replace them all.
quick question in case I break something - can the bolt/stud for the mount be replaced? I'm assuming I'll need to rip out all the trunk liners to get access to it, if it's even replaceable?
after calling around shops and getting wild prices, decided to DIY this. A bit of quirk when picking parts: there is a difference between TO 5/13/2013 (KYB 349219) and FROM 5/13/2013 (KYB 3440013) when picking KYB shocks at rockauto - are they dimensionally different? my car's sticker on driver side door says built date 12/2012 so I should be using the TO part?
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- Denver, CO
I don't know for sure, but that's how I'd interpret it. My car is from 01/2013 on the door sticker, so just a month after yours. I'd assume I'd want the part that is To 5/13/2013. I'd read "from" 5/13/2013 as any car made on that date or later.
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- 2014 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech
If you search around here for posts on the rear shocks you will find that you can't buy just the mounts and aftermarket shocks do not include them. It's a known problem that these mounts crack and fail. Some people were able to use mounts from a Mazda 3 (which are available from the dealer) but it is not a perfect solution. The absolute best solution is to just buy new OEM shocks that include new mounts (which, by the way, are a bit redesigned to be stronger). I went through all this last spring. I let me local shop change them because I knew how rusted things were (I'm in Minnesota) and what a job it would be. He had quoted me a price upfront for 1.2 hours of labor. When I went to pick it up he said that it was one mother of a job to get the rusty old ones off and he struggled even with a lift and lots of tools. But, he said, he quoted me a price and he would stick with it. So, my advice to you is buy the OEM shocks which come with the new mounts and let a trusted mechanic put them on for you. Just get a price quote for labor ahead of time! 
Assuming you are talking about the upper rear shock mounts, yes, you can buy them separately.If you search around here for posts on the rear shocks you will find that you can't buy just the mounts and aftermarket shocks do not include them. It's a known problem that these mounts crack and fail. Some people were able to use mounts from a Mazda 3 (which are available from the dealer) but it is not a perfect solution. The absolute best solution is to just buy new OEM shocks that include new mounts (which, by the way, are a bit redesigned to be stronger). I went through all this last spring. I let me local shop change them because I knew how rusted things were (I'm in Minnesota) and what a job it would be. He had quoted me a price upfront for 1.2 hours of labor. When I went to pick it up he said that it was one mother of a job to get the rusty old ones off and he struggled even with a lift and lots of tools. But, he said, he quoted me a price and he would stick with it. So, my advice to you is buy the OEM shocks which come with the new mounts and let a trusted mechanic put them on for you. Just get a price quote for labor ahead of time!
And, they are exactly the same for CX-5, 6, and 3.
Just recently had it done, using this or something similar. Was quoted about an hour of labour.
https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned)
DUZFOREI 2PCS Car Rear Shock Absorber Strut Mount, Replacement for Mazda CX-5 2012-2016, Replacement for Mazda 3 2014-2016, Replacement for Mazda 6 2014-2016 : Amazon.ca: Automotive
a.co
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- 2023 CX-5 2.5 Turbo AWD Auto
RIP 8/23:2013 CX-5 Sport FWD Auto 120k
That’s great that some aftermarket mounts are available. They weren’t a thing when I replaced my rear shocks at least 5 years ago.
Based on the vehicle mileage and rust, ehh…, I’d probably suck it up and pay to get the rear shocks replaced altogether. I know one mount is broke but might as well replace the shock while the bolts are off. And then you should replace in pairs. Pay once cry once?
That lower bolt on the shock is going to be a cast iron $@!&@ to remove if it looks like the link. Factory torque spec to tighten it is at least 150 ft lbs if I remember right. Add rust and god almighty that sounds like a rough day. Lots and lots of rust release over a few days.
Best of luck!
Based on the vehicle mileage and rust, ehh…, I’d probably suck it up and pay to get the rear shocks replaced altogether. I know one mount is broke but might as well replace the shock while the bolts are off. And then you should replace in pairs. Pay once cry once?
That lower bolt on the shock is going to be a cast iron $@!&@ to remove if it looks like the link. Factory torque spec to tighten it is at least 150 ft lbs if I remember right. Add rust and god almighty that sounds like a rough day. Lots and lots of rust release over a few days.
Best of luck!
I didn't see what model year the OP's Cx-5 is but mentions 12 years so I'll guess 2013. My 2014 was built in 9/13 and does not have a bolt retaining the bottom of the shock ( although service manual shows bolt)) but instead has a stud threaded into the knuckle and a 19mm(?) nut. I think the bolt is used on later models. I've read (on this forum I do believe) about the need to cut the shock eyelet apart to remove it and the rubber bushing from the stud. To me this sounds like a job that is best done on a lift and maybe a torch is needed also. My plans are to have it done and I'll supply new studs along with new shocks and mounts.
I think @minnesotaart in post #10 above has given good advice.
I think @minnesotaart in post #10 above has given good advice.
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The studs I'm referring to are the one's that fasten the BOTTOM of the shock to the knuckle not the top. Take a look at where the bottom of the shock mounts to the car. You should see a big nut and the tip of a stud that will accept a small hex socket to remove /install the stud. My understanding is that the issue is that the metal bushing in the shock eyelet becomes corroded to the stud and the metal eyelet and rubber have to cut off of the stud. It isn't a case of just unscrewing the stud or sliding the shock off of the stud. So it has to be cut off. As said above, I plan to furnish new studs along with other parts when having it done in case they get butchered when doing the job. I wouldn't expect the mechanic to try to source new studs, or even a proper size bolt as a replacement, while the car ties up the lift.
