Autoexe Earth Grounding Kit

[twilightprotege]

maybe i should add i havent really looked that hard at this stage, but once my cams are ground and headwork is done, grounding wires will be my next mod

 

[erockp5]

I put some ground wires(home made) in last week. Used 1/0 at $0.86 a ft with copper quick connectors from home depot. You don't really need to remove the factory grounds. Add a ground to the fuse box frame also. This made a noticeable difference. Jrodhotrod's install looks much nicer, but for the price you can go cheaper and still hear a difference.

Here is a japanese company reping Sun. They have the dyno tests on this link, with a suggested connection points for grounding kit in general(frame at page bottom).Good conceptual info on why this works.

http://www.sigmaautomotive.com:8080/EGS/bodymainegs.html

Here is a dc resistance guide for copper and aluminum wire sizes. In case you wonder how big the difference is between kits or use in your own design.

http://www.okonite.com/engineering/dc-resistance.html

And for the real nerds an aircraft wiring expert tutorial on what to consider in your grounding design. Check around there site for more good wiring info. If our grounds fail we don't fall from the sky.

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grnding.pdf

 

[PaulMP3]

i put my kit on tonight.

 

[p5sundevil]

well i got my HKS replica kit from ebay, 38 shipped, blue wires. came with:

new battery pole
circle plate to be mounted to block. 1 short, 1 longer, 1 longer, 1 longer, 2 longest, thats right 6 wires. lol

also with 2 3bolt plates if you want to use em, i didn't.
a shitload of extra bolt and nuts.

I grounded
chassis-->neg bat-->circle plate
circle plate --> trannie
circle plate --> intake manifold-->chassis
circle plate --> chassis
circle plate --> head/valvecover.

Ill take pitcures of it installed tomorrow and all the extra parts I have lol. Also you'll get to see my test run with duplicolors anodizing paint on my radiator cap =P

 

[twilightprotege]

thanks for those links erockp5. very interesting. that's rather a big difference in resistance from 8 gauge compaired to 4 gauge wire and then compaired to 1/0

 

[p5sundevil]

heh, i jsut read what he posted too and will add my last wire today, I think I will try to ground the distributor cap.

anyone who has used a circle eath system before, where did you put your circle plate?

 

[erockp5]

Hey, we don't have distributors, individual coils. It's funny though had a gen1 engine kind of glad to not have one, it ate rotors and caps.

Glad I provided some good info. I always try to understand as much about something as possible, I just wanted a good technical explaination which most kits do not provide.

I started by grounding just 2 points on the engine with 4awg. This made a big difference. The 2 points were the back left of the intake manifold and the bracket on the front right of the block. After reading about the resistance level we are fighting I decided to go with 1/0 because it provides the lowest reasonable resistance per foot. It also holds its shape when you install so you can keep it away from engine heat. Remember heat adds to resistance and the charts are only for 20C. The engine compartment is well over 35C on hot days here. I am also not sure what the jackets are rated for in the kits mentioned, my cable is heat and oil resistant.

The points I grounded next were the right back corner of the intake manifold, the fuse box bracket, and the front left bracket of the block. These points are close to the injector rail, the compressor pump and should be close enough to help the left chassis ground(factory).

All my grounds run to the bracket to the right of the battery where the factory ground from the battery terminates. Although I haven't looked at all the kits remember that the aircraft electrical expert said each connection adds resistance so daisy chaining adds some extra resistance. Some kits have all wires terminate at central hub/block I think this is the best from info I have read.

I may buy a multimeter and check voltage drops to see if there are anymore points which would benefit from additional grounding.

 

[p5sundevil]

well i got the circle earth design one, so I put the circle plate the only place it would fit and that is the empty hole on the front right of the block. Once the circle plate was there I ran a cable from their to neg bat and from neg bat to the factory ground next to the battery.

Next I ran a wire from the circle plate to the transmission, on top of the trannie towards the firewall, kinda hard to reach and harder to put back on as I found out but it seemed the best place.

I also ran one from the circle plate to the intake manifold on the right side and from their to the factory ground on the passenger side(i believe it is a factory ground, it is on the strut tower)

lastly I ran one straight from the circle plate to the passenger side ground just to get a little extra grounding for the plate since almost all the wires ran to or through it.

basically I only have 2 wires daisy chained(from plate to manifold to ground) but one of them is to a ground.

I still have one more of the longest wires, was thinkin of doing the fusse box bracket to the circle plate but havent decided yet.

sorry I didnt get pics today, definately tomorrow though,.

 

[twilightprotege]

pics would be cool yeah. i like to see different ideas on how to do things. i'm going to try and hide my grounding wires when i do my set up - i like a clean engine pay. eventually all my wires will be hidden, but i've gotta start somewhere.....just gotta decide 1/0 gauge or 4 gauge....decisions decisions....

does anyone have a complete 1/0 wire setup?