Sounds like the same :bs: mt dealer fed me about how they scratched the core support when they changed the motor.They told me that these things happen and didnt even offer to fix it!They were feeding me when I wasn't even hungry!:wtf:
autobarn dealership can suck my *#@*#@
- Thread starter Dexter
- Start date
- :
- 2015 BMW 335i Sedan / 2015 Nissan Pathfinder Platinum 4WD
So are you going to go to another dealer and see what they say?
- :
- 2015 BMW 335i Sedan / 2015 Nissan Pathfinder Platinum 4WD
Good luck finding a better dealer...I don't have any other dealers close by, so I'm screwed..
boostisgood
Member
- :
- 1988 FC3S TII
Dex.
Follow this link to my sticky about the comsumers bill of rights, and links to SEMA and Enjoy the drvie http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21034
They have to formally, in writing, show proof that any aftermarket part is the cause of the warranty work. Not just speculate that a turbo timer COULDVE caused it. To me it seems like they were afraid to work on it.
I would suggest that anyone that takes thier MSP in for service, talk to the MSpeed tech face to face, and get an idea of his knowledge and skill. I never like to explain my issues to the writeup guys, I always talk to the techs directly.
Well dex hopew that helps, feel free to hit me up on AIM later tonight. Ill also be in chicago in july for HIN. mebbe we could go show off the speeds.
Follow this link to my sticky about the comsumers bill of rights, and links to SEMA and Enjoy the drvie http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21034
They have to formally, in writing, show proof that any aftermarket part is the cause of the warranty work. Not just speculate that a turbo timer COULDVE caused it. To me it seems like they were afraid to work on it.
I would suggest that anyone that takes thier MSP in for service, talk to the MSpeed tech face to face, and get an idea of his knowledge and skill. I never like to explain my issues to the writeup guys, I always talk to the techs directly.
Well dex hopew that helps, feel free to hit me up on AIM later tonight. Ill also be in chicago in july for HIN. mebbe we could go show off the speeds.
Guys, it is this simple, if it isn't in a manual car techs have no clue how to fix it.
Manuals go step by step logicly for a reason, the tech using them can't figure out s*** without them and can hardly draw an acurrate conclusion on there own.
Another good thing to keep in mind is most techs are gear heads and wiring scares the s*** out of them. Or completely baffles them. Just watch the remote starter episode of Shaddy Tree Mechanics to see what I mean.
This being said, if you do modify the wiring in some way then take the time to explain where every connection is to your dealer and explain how the device works. Most people don't know how to just hook somehting up the first time they see it and neither will the dealer.
Sex if you still need to get the sub fixed or are unsure as to what is the problem then feel free to ask me. Also get a multimeter. No one has an excuse to be under the dash without one. If you know what your looking for then you can show them whats wrong and prove how it has nothing to do with the turbo timer.
Manuals go step by step logicly for a reason, the tech using them can't figure out s*** without them and can hardly draw an acurrate conclusion on there own.
Another good thing to keep in mind is most techs are gear heads and wiring scares the s*** out of them. Or completely baffles them. Just watch the remote starter episode of Shaddy Tree Mechanics to see what I mean.
This being said, if you do modify the wiring in some way then take the time to explain where every connection is to your dealer and explain how the device works. Most people don't know how to just hook somehting up the first time they see it and neither will the dealer.
Sex if you still need to get the sub fixed or are unsure as to what is the problem then feel free to ask me. Also get a multimeter. No one has an excuse to be under the dash without one. If you know what your looking for then you can show them whats wrong and prove how it has nothing to do with the turbo timer.
1st MP3 in NH said:
Sex? With you? Sure!
anyways, i wanted to bust out my multimeter, take apart the sub enclosure and check that s*** myself, BUT i wanted to prevent any hassle from the techs saying "Well, you took it apart and voided the waranty! **** a duck!"
*shrugs*
im pretty sure some wiring is loose in the actual sub itself. sometimes it will fade back in for anywhere from 30 seconds to a couple minutes.
Sex, , the sub and enclosure belong to you and you can do whatever the hell with them you want. As long as you don't push a drill through the sorround there isn't anything you an do to hurt the sub.
They have to prove you killed it before they can void a warrenty. Start quoting actual laws and you will find them change tunes really god damn quick. Also get the BBB in your area invloved. Write them a complaint letter.
As long as you amp is turning on and you can hook a different sub/box in the stock ones place and it works fine, then you are right and it is the wiring at the sub.
Yet more info!
Kenwood has a no return subwoofer replacement policy, thus warrenty claim subwoofers get thrown out not sent back. Call kenwood and get the name of the Rep in your area. Call them up and let them know what is going they may just tell give you another sub if yours is smoked. I would only use them if you know the sub is blown though.
, the sub and enclosure belong to you and you can do whatever the hell with them you want. As long as you don't push a drill through the sorround there isn't anything you an do to hurt the sub. They have to prove you killed it before they can void a warrenty. Start quoting actual laws and you will find them change tunes really god damn quick. Also get the BBB in your area invloved. Write them a complaint letter.
As long as you amp is turning on and you can hook a different sub/box in the stock ones place and it works fine, then you are right and it is the wiring at the sub.
Yet more info!
Kenwood has a no return subwoofer replacement policy, thus warrenty claim subwoofers get thrown out not sent back. Call kenwood and get the name of the Rep in your area. Call them up and let them know what is going they may just tell give you another sub if yours is smoked. I would only use them if you know the sub is blown though.
i just got the service report in the mail since i just drove out of there cuz i was pissed
wow, i so cant wait to rip them a new one in my return mail.....
1) if the subwoofer is not working, why go to the lower dash panel? you saw the timer and immediatly got scared
2) how is wiring to the ignition harness "wiring to turbo"??
3) again, of course the radio is connected to 12V constant, 12V accessory, 12V ignition and ground. what electrical component ISN'T ??? If the Timer was causing such a problem, don't you think the entire system would be dead, including the head unit and amp?
4) I declined further repair because the technician used scare tactics of saying that i would be charged 91 dollars an hour if they found damaged wiring, and by thier claims that the timer is wired into the same wires as the "woofer", it would be hard to me to disprove the all mighty dealership "techinicians" claims of "Yep, the timer did it!" without having prepared myself before hand with mesurements of voltages and wiring diagrams. Since i was on the spot and under pressure from said "technician", who also called my work "tampering" and "playing around", something i dont appreciate, i declined service from your craptacular dealership
5) maybe the "tech" writing this up should have taken english 101. i've never seen so many period and comma errors.
i need some revising, but how does that sound so far off the top of my head?
Code:
DIAGNOSE: FOUND NO POWER TO SUBWOOFER, REMOVE LOWER DASH PANEL, FOUND MODIFY WIRING TO TURBO.
IN SAME LOCATION OF WIRING FROM RADIO TO WOOFER..
MADE CUSTOMER AWARE THAT IF WIRING HAS BEEN
DAMAGED IN ANY WAY, UPON INSTALLATION OF TURBO
TIMER WIRING.. THE CUSTOMER WOULD BE RESPONSIBLE, FOR ALL CHARGES.. CUSTOMER DECLINED FURTHER REPAIR
*******************************
VEHICE HAS AFTERMARKET TURBO TIMER
INSTALLED BY CUSTOMERwow, i so cant wait to rip them a new one in my return mail.....
1) if the subwoofer is not working, why go to the lower dash panel? you saw the timer and immediatly got scared
2) how is wiring to the ignition harness "wiring to turbo"??
3) again, of course the radio is connected to 12V constant, 12V accessory, 12V ignition and ground. what electrical component ISN'T ??? If the Timer was causing such a problem, don't you think the entire system would be dead, including the head unit and amp?
4) I declined further repair because the technician used scare tactics of saying that i would be charged 91 dollars an hour if they found damaged wiring, and by thier claims that the timer is wired into the same wires as the "woofer", it would be hard to me to disprove the all mighty dealership "techinicians" claims of "Yep, the timer did it!" without having prepared myself before hand with mesurements of voltages and wiring diagrams. Since i was on the spot and under pressure from said "technician", who also called my work "tampering" and "playing around", something i dont appreciate, i declined service from your craptacular dealership
5) maybe the "tech" writing this up should have taken english 101. i've never seen so many period and comma errors.
i need some revising, but how does that sound so far off the top of my head?
Last edited:
MazdaspeedZOOM
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
Bijou-MP5 said:hey dexter...try pugi mazda.. I have great service with parts department..and my friend ZMZMP5 said they had a great car service department too
Not a bad idea going to pugi, they seem like cool people it's were I bought my Speed from, just be careful your car doesn't get vandalized and broken into like mine did. There nice but the security isn't all that great...
MazdaspeedZOOM
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
ZoomZoom said:
Make sure you leave a trail of breadcrumbs so your duck can follow you.
peace
Griff
"What do you think of that Mr. Blue Duck?"
"That's QUACKTASTIC! quack quack quack"
Dex, just use this and run it by Griff(ZoomZoom) first.
If a subwoofer is not working the first step is to ensure the amp is on. If the illumination light on the amp is illuminated then the subwoofer or its wires are the likely problem.
Start by disconnecting the subwoofer speaker wires at the amp and use a multimeter to verify the proper impedance is seen. For this sub it should be around 4 ohm. If 4 ohms then move on, the sub is not the likely problem. Any impedance very low ( under 3 ohms) and there is a short and the sub is damaged. Very high, over a 1000 ohms and the wires are loose, fell off, or the sub is damaged.
If The sub read 4 ohms then a last test of using a standard 9 volt battery to "pop" the subwoofer. Just place the positive terminal of the battery to the positive speaker wire and the negative terminal to the negative speaker wire. Once connected the speaker should quickly fire out and the battery should be immediatly disconnected. Just a tap will do and prove the subs proper function with the impedance testing.
If the amp is not on or the sub has check out fine then the amps proper function should be checked. The first and easiest thing to check if the amp is off is that the fuse under the hood is fine and passing voltage. If that is ok then check the fuse on the amp. The amp fuse being blown will allow the amp to be on but not sending power to the sub. The amps terminals should be checked to make sure they are getting very close to the voltage measured across the battery terminals, within a 1/2 volt is desireable. More then a volt difference and there could be a ground proplem at the amp. The remote wire on the amp should als show atleast 12 volts.
If a ground terminal is suspect then the ground terminal can be measured back tothe negative battery terminal and should be under 1 ohm. If the power wire is suspect then the wire should be disconnected at each end and the impedance should be checked from the positive wire to ground. Ther should be no reading. The only way for the power wire to be problematic from another device being wired to it is if the device is wired in series to it. Of coarse, a turbo timer would not function if wired in series.
Also the amp would not work. If wired in parallel off the amps power wire even a dead short can not do anything except blow the fuse on the wire.
Enjoy Dex!
I can put this in writting if you need with my cradentials even though they aren't overly impressive.
If a subwoofer is not working the first step is to ensure the amp is on. If the illumination light on the amp is illuminated then the subwoofer or its wires are the likely problem.
Start by disconnecting the subwoofer speaker wires at the amp and use a multimeter to verify the proper impedance is seen. For this sub it should be around 4 ohm. If 4 ohms then move on, the sub is not the likely problem. Any impedance very low ( under 3 ohms) and there is a short and the sub is damaged. Very high, over a 1000 ohms and the wires are loose, fell off, or the sub is damaged.
If The sub read 4 ohms then a last test of using a standard 9 volt battery to "pop" the subwoofer. Just place the positive terminal of the battery to the positive speaker wire and the negative terminal to the negative speaker wire. Once connected the speaker should quickly fire out and the battery should be immediatly disconnected. Just a tap will do and prove the subs proper function with the impedance testing.
If the amp is not on or the sub has check out fine then the amps proper function should be checked. The first and easiest thing to check if the amp is off is that the fuse under the hood is fine and passing voltage. If that is ok then check the fuse on the amp. The amp fuse being blown will allow the amp to be on but not sending power to the sub. The amps terminals should be checked to make sure they are getting very close to the voltage measured across the battery terminals, within a 1/2 volt is desireable. More then a volt difference and there could be a ground proplem at the amp. The remote wire on the amp should als show atleast 12 volts.
If a ground terminal is suspect then the ground terminal can be measured back tothe negative battery terminal and should be under 1 ohm. If the power wire is suspect then the wire should be disconnected at each end and the impedance should be checked from the positive wire to ground. Ther should be no reading. The only way for the power wire to be problematic from another device being wired to it is if the device is wired in series to it. Of coarse, a turbo timer would not function if wired in series.
Also the amp would not work. If wired in parallel off the amps power wire even a dead short can not do anything except blow the fuse on the wire.
Enjoy Dex!
I can put this in writting if you need with my cradentials even though they aren't overly impressive.
I used to go to Pugi when I had my VW, they never cared that it was modified. They weren't the most punctual of places however.
I also went to Bill Jacobs VW-Mazda when I had a window regulator blow on my VW and Pugi was closed for the weekend. They not only fixed my window regulator on a day all other dealers were closed but covered it under warranty even though the car was 500 miles over my warranty periord (this was before the window regulator recall btw)
Since I got my Mazda I've used Wilkin's Mazda in Villa Park, they seem pretty cool, but I haven't modded my MSP yet, so I don't know how they'd react to your turbo timer.
Overall I liked Bill Jacobs (in Aurora) the best, but I haven't used them for anything Mazda related.
Good luck man. If you go to Wilkin's, pop across the street to the shopping center, if you see an Orange MSP parked there, that's mine, stop into the Mac store and say Hi.
I also went to Bill Jacobs VW-Mazda when I had a window regulator blow on my VW and Pugi was closed for the weekend. They not only fixed my window regulator on a day all other dealers were closed but covered it under warranty even though the car was 500 miles over my warranty periord (this was before the window regulator recall btw)
Since I got my Mazda I've used Wilkin's Mazda in Villa Park, they seem pretty cool, but I haven't modded my MSP yet, so I don't know how they'd react to your turbo timer.
Overall I liked Bill Jacobs (in Aurora) the best, but I haven't used them for anything Mazda related.
Good luck man. If you go to Wilkin's, pop across the street to the shopping center, if you see an Orange MSP parked there, that's mine, stop into the Mac store and say Hi.
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