attn: spoolin and chdesign

Spoolin, those are simple 1 way plastic check valve that I took at Canadian Tire, a kind of hardware and car store. Here's a picture of the check valves installation:

Check_valve.jpg


Hummmmm.... I realy need to clean under the hood!!! :(

Before that, they had installed a big one made of brass I think. But those 3 plastic valves work better! :)
 
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Thats one way to do it but you are trapping vaccuum routing them that way. I will try to get a picture of my check valve installation so you can see what I did. Basically you don't want it to trap vacuum but you do want it to bleed off vacuum.
 
I can't wait to see how you installed your's chdesign!:)

Hey guys, on what color wire did you connected your Air/Fuel meter? I did some test but I'm not sure I got the good one....:confused:
 
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It's an Autometer gauge with 3 wires. Red (12V), black (ground) and purple to connect to the o2 sensor signal. I'm looking for the o2 sensor signal.
 
That's exactly the one I tought about but I can't find it under the dash bord. Did you cennected it from under the hood?
 
I ran a wire through the firewall to the sensor. Otherwise you would have to get a diagram of the ECU and find its pin in the ECU.
 
I looked at least 1/2 hour under the dash and didn't find it. I'll probably do like you and run it directly from the sensor.

Thanks!
 
chdesign, the car is runing very fine. I'm so anxious to change the clutch. I feel lot of power but can't use it because the clutch is slipping to much.

Even with the EGR connected, I still get the CEL. It's probably the 2nd o2 sensor. I'll get the o2 cheater.

Beside the clutch, I only have 1 problem left. I can't get the A/F gauge working. I don't understand why. From the sensor, we got the blue wire which change to the pink/blue wire after the connector. This pink/blue wire change gray on the wire harness, this is where I connected it. The A/F is completely black (no light). When I disconect the purple wire, I see 1 green led on (rich). When I touch the wire with my finger, I can see many leds flashing. :confused:

The guy who sold it to me said that I need to install a Civic 88-91 o2 sensor. Those sensor have only 1 wire which I must connected to the purple one. But on the installation sheet, it said it can work on a 4 wires sensor and your A/F is fonctionnal. So I don't want to put another sensor for nothing. :mad:
 
I put a Civic sensor (1 wire) and the A/F gauge is working fine :confused: :confused: :confused:

Maybe my original o2 sensors are broken. I read on the Autometer website that we must be careful if we use a voltmeter, "Damage to o2 sensor may result, use only a high impedance digital multimeter ". I'm not sure that my digital voltmeter is a high impedance one.

So for now my A/F is working and I'm always in the RICH zone, even if my SDS controller is at the minimum. Better RICH than LEAN!!!
 
Very Cool stou glad to hear its working well and welcome to the world of boosted proteges!!!!! My Air/Fuel jumps alot until I go into boost but thats because I have an extremely high flo cat on mine and i have no backpressure. Under boost though I'm extremely rich. I'm thinking about getting the same controller you are but I just don't like the idea of dumping fuel into the intake tract. Tell me if that O2 cheater works for you if it does I'm getting one I have a CEL because of my 2nd O2 but I fixed seeing that CEL light by taking out the bulb!! :D
 
I'm waiting for a reply from people at MIL Eliminator. I think this device can work on our cars but on the installation page, they only talk about wires colors of the Ford o2 sensor. Ford have different colors than Mazda on the sensors. So I need to know which one must be connected to the MIL Eliminator.

MIL ELiminator

Is someone got any info on that?
 
Craig, finaly I did something that seem to work. I did a road test and everything is working good, even my A/F that I reconnected to the original o2 sensor.

Here what I did:

o2 sensor modification

I simply installed a "1 Mega Ohm resistor" on the output o2 sensor wire (blue). I also splitted the blue wire before the resistor to connect my A/F gauge and everything work well now!

I looked on different post on Subaru, Mustang, Honda and Mazda forum and decide to try this. I don't know if it will work on heavy boost but I tried the best I can with my sliping clutch and no CEL.
 
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Excellent info! Actually I was thinking about doing that. I also used a resistor setup like that on my other car when I took out the airbag and replaced it with a momo steering wheel. Good to know that it works on o2 sensors too!:D

Stou when you getting a clutch?
 
Spoolin, I should received it this week. I ordered it last monday and they said it will take 2 weeks. They have received the clutch last friday but not the presure plate. They said they must get it this week. I can't wait to get it installed.
 
Bad news... the CEL cameback this morning after 1/2 hour ride downtown. Probably when the motor is hotter, the o2 sensor send more voltage to the ecu. I'll try to use a higher resistor, 2 Mega Ohm and I'll let you know if this work.
 
It's not going to work without a capacitor also wired in with it. There is a thread that gives an example of this. I'll try to find it.
 
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