Attention all oil changers!

Ljspeed said:
I just used the Pureone this weekend on my oil change. I got it at Pepboys and they had the new catalog there with 2003 and it has it under Mazdaspeed Protege and I believe its 14612 I think. But it is definitely available

Yep thats it, it must have just came out. Somone needs to compare the 14622 to the 14612.See what the difference is.
 
Quick questions about oil change? If you use jackstand where do you guys put the jack stands at?? I can't find a good spot yet. Just curious, and oh yea illustration would be greatly appreciated.

On the subject of the filter, I just Purlator Pureone filter model # L14612. Oil Filter size doesn't matter as long as it does the job which is filter the god damn debris or what not out of my engine.
 
And I'll update you guys on the 612 filter. It is a little be bigger than OEM filter (measured diameter distance), but size don't matter as the efficency of this baby.
 
YuYuRena said:
Quick questions about oil change? If you use jackstand where do you guys put the jack stands at?? I can't find a good spot yet. Just curious, and oh yea illustration would be greatly appreciated.

On the subject of the filter, I just Purlator Pureone filter model # L14612. Oil Filter size doesn't matter as long as it does the job which is filter the god damn debris or what not out of my engine.


Buy some ramps, they are like 15 bux and save your ass the trouble of getting out a jack, lifting the car, setting up stands, then all the yadda that comes afterward.
 
YuYuRena: Use ramps. Jackstands are too much work and the MSP has a high enough front end to drive right up most of 'em.

anarchistchiken, the lower numbers correspond to the "flowability" and hence lubricating properties of the oil. In layman's terms, the oil thins out when it gets hot: too hot/thin and it doesn't lubricate, too cold/thick and it doesn't flow. A multi-viscosity oil protects like a thin oil when cold and a thicker oil when hot - the lower number is how "thin" the oil can behave, and the higher number shows how well the oil behaves when hot. A 15W50 protects like a 15W when cold and a 50W when hot, for example. Racing oils are typically single weight - in that the racing engine is expected to operate in a narrow (and fairly hot) range, while a street engine must endure cold starts and so needs a thinner oil until warmed up. Thinner oils flow better, rob less horsepower, and work betterrwith tighter tolerances - so they're specced in more since manufacturing has become better and fuel economy more important. Older cars used 10W40 (thicker), newer cars 5W30. VW's love 15W50 (really thick syrupy stuff). Got it?
 
yeah, I got some valvoline 10w30 this time.. I think Im'a go with mobile one full synthetic next time.. seems to be the thing to do.. I'll still get it changed every 5000 prolly.... maybe 6k.. I change ever 3000 now with normal oil
 
SuperSpud said:
yeah, I got some valvoline 10w30 this time.. I think Im'a go with mobile one full synthetic next time.. seems to be the thing to do..

From what I read at various places, other than the dyno Valvoline oil, Valvoline does not worth the money they charge. Here is a virgin oil analysis of 5w30 Durablen:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000119#000000

Out of all the big brand motor oils available at WalMart, Mobil 1 is the only one that is considered fully synthetic. Most people at the forum above would stay away from so-called fully synthetic oil from Valvoline and Castrol.

Mobil 1 would be a good choice along with Royal Purple and Red Line.
 
t3ase said:
Wait, you mean someone agrees that Royal Purple is a good oil?! WHOA!#@

Hell yes! That's what I use...10w-30. Keep it thick for hard runs through autocross. May go to 5w-30 for the winter, though! Damn stuff makes a noticable difference if you ask me! Anyone know where to get redline for a good price online, though? Looking to change out the tranny fluid, not sure if I should use RP or RL.
 
nope you got that backward servo, you want 5w30 for autox and 10w30 for winter. thinner oil is better for racing hence the 0w20 from amsoil and other performance oil. 10w30 has a better low temp pouring property than 5w30. unless u live in fl or like az you probably don't wanna put 5w30, cuz it's no good around freezing temp.
 
Say wha? I'm pretty sure lower viscosity for winter is the idea...it gets to the engine and coats faster since it's thinner. It's also rated for lower temp use compared to 10w-30...check the MSP manual insert. It shows 5w-30 being used at lower temps. And at higher temps the 10w-30 will break down more slowly, protecting the engine etc. That's always the way I've been taught, anyway...
 
now i'm confused. i always thought lower weight oil is better since less friction = less mechanical loss. mmm good points though, i gotta do some more research on this. thanks for the pointer
 
Whew...man...I thought I had been taught wrong all along! :D

You are right, though about less friction, though...it increases performance more. Take a look around Royal Purple's site...very informative. It looks like I'll be looking for some racing 21, if I can find it....or I'll just stick with what I've got!
 
t3ase posted this link in a different thread:

http://www.racingbeat.com

Clicks on Miata, and then "oil system". I think their are at least a dollar cheaper than my local NAPA. I will give them a try for my next oil change.

Royal Purple 5W30 for $5
Royal Purple Racing 21 for $8
 
About the same as Jegs and JCwhitney I believe. There's tons of places and they're about the same. NAPA, I love for looking, but they're too freakin expensive!
 
Back