arg! brakes

[Mazdacub]

It looks like you got a botched up set from Hawk like i did. My HP+ pads i got for the front had 3 pads with the two small bumps on the pad back located near the centre (outside pads) and 1 pad with the small bumps located along the outside (inside pad). i had no choice but to install them that day so I had to grind off the centre bumps on one of the pads to make it fit right on the piston side. I ordered a new set from Moapc and just got as credit for the bad set.

The low pedal your getting and the sensation of the car just not stopping correctly and the rears locking up sounds like you got some major bleeding to do. Buy a nice big bottle of brake fluid and bleed your entire system till nice new clear fluid comes out of the calipers. Remember to always refill the reservoir after you bleed each caliper!!! to avoid the possibly of running low on fluid and sucking more air into the system. Im sure you know but start with the caliper that is farthest away from the MS.

I love the Hawk HP+ pads but they are loud and dusty. I have had mine only installed for about 6-7 months and my new Powerslot rotors look like they have been on the car for over 3 years. The pads chew on the rotors so hard the rotor will have to be turned by mid summer. The pads still look as good as new though.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Ya man, you got a bunk set, and while they may work I wouldn't reccomend using them on your car. Get a new set of KVR's. I love them as part of my iON brake kit.

 

[khaosman]

Thanks for the advice Mazdacub. I think I'll just install the old pads for now and then figure out what I'm going to do for new pads in the coming month (first autocross is March 26 so I've got time).

 

[Mazdacub]

You will love the pads for autox !!! I have put my personal sanity at risk with the loud brake noise so i could brake better on the track. My only suggestion would be to get new matching Hawk HP+ pads for the rears also. When changing pads on a vehicle you should keep all the pads the same make and performance level because of the friction coefficient. If you keep the stock rears on the car you will be putting too much braking load on the fronts because the rears will not be at the same increased level of braking as the fronts. (does that make sense?). If you want to go all out get some slotted rotors. the inside of my rims have heavy deposits of brake dust located inline with the slots on the rotor. This just goes to prove that the slotted rotors do a good job of ejecting the dust from between the pads and the rotor. I will post a pic of it when I get home today.

 

[khaosman]

Okay I removed the tabs and it works much better now! No drag or noise. However the pedal feel is still a bit off, so I'm going to rebleed the system. How do you go about bleeding the master cylinder?

The only bad thing is that whatever was causing the dragging (the tab I think) did the damn damns to my rotors I'll have to replace those, perhaps with some slotted ones like you mentioned Mazdacub. Or maybe just some cheapy Autozone ones, I've heard good things about them.

 

[Mazdacub]

Bleeding the master cylinder or priming the master cylinder is only necessary if it is replaced of taken off the car. Just follow the information in this link for a good basic how to on how to bleed brakes. It sounds like your pooched with the pads you got. Just save up and get an entire new setup for the best results.

http://www.teamscr.com/brakes.htm

 

[blownoffvalve]

i heard that the hawks are nice too