Any photographers in here?

FunkyBuddha said:
I guess it's still just a "you" problem LOL. Keep at it. You have to nail these focuses down man. It's been like a year almost. Get on it!
Click to expand...

I think my main problem is I'm trying to keep the F stop down to keep the shutter speed fast, and the ISO low. I need to be comfortable turning the ISO up, and raise the Fstop. Guys always talking about faster glass has lead me to believe that people shoot lower Fstops than I think is really even remotely true.. going to have to go out and try some stuff, but I think I may finally understand enough to make a real improvement that I've been lacking.

FunkyBuddha said:
You seriously gonna ask the max settings on an unsharp mask? I'm sorry man..but your skillz have to improve first before you can even touch post processing techniques. If the focus is bad on that bird, then no matter what you do..you can't put that into focus again.
Click to expand...

So, no point in knowing how to fine tune while working on a gross tune? I guess I don't see the logic there, as the general guideline would apply fairly universally.
 
Wagonbacker9 said:
So, no point in knowing how to fine tune while working on a gross tune? I guess I don't see the logic there, as the general guideline would apply fairly universally.
Click to expand...

I don't wholly agree with that either. Sure, focus is one thing you can never get back, but I think most of the time in a picture's life is the editing process, which can take place ina darkroom or on a computer

A lot of times I don't find mistakes until they end up on my computer anyway. And when I edit sometimes I teach myself the part of the pic I need to work on next time
 
EXIF viewer

There are also plugins for firefox I believe that allow you to right click an image and see EXIF.



As funky said, you definitely need to hone your shooting skills before working on your PP skills. ALWAYS focus your shots on the EYES of your subject. Also, if the subject of your photo is a bird, make sure the whole bird is in focus. If the subject of your photo is the HEAD of the bird, you can go with a more shallow DoF. Remember one thing: your shutter speed should pretty much NEVER be above 1/1000 of a second, and more often, around 1/250 is where I shoot. If you're shooting faster than that, you're losing out on ISO (causing noise) or DoF.
 
oaklandopen said:
I don't wholly agree with that either. Sure, focus is one thing you can never get back, but I think most of the time in a picture's life is the editing process, which can take place ina darkroom or on a computer

A lot of times I don't find mistakes until they end up on my computer anyway. And when I edit sometimes I teach myself the part of the pic I need to work on next time
Click to expand...

you basically disagreed with him at the beginning of this post, but ended up agreeing with him at the end.

You can never go back and re-push the shutter button, but you can PP the same photo 100 times. You HAVE to get it right when you're shooting.
 
When I used the word "either" I was saying that I didn't agree with part of funky's reply just like wagon. About the editing aspect. Didn't mean to sound contradicting if I did
 
sleeper3 said:
EXIF viewer

There are also plugins for firefox I believe that allow you to right click an image and see EXIF.



As funky said, you definitely need to hone your shooting skills before working on your PP skills. ALWAYS focus your shots on the EYES of your subject. Also, if the subject of your photo is a bird, make sure the whole bird is in focus. If the subject of your photo is the HEAD of the bird, you can go with a more shallow DoF. Remember one thing: your shutter speed should pretty much NEVER be above 1/1000 of a second, and more often, around 1/250 is where I shoot. If you're shooting faster than that, you're losing out on ISO (causing noise) or DoF.
Click to expand...

I'd say on general rule I need to turn the iso up anyway then. Most of the shutters I remember watching were around 1/30-1/60.
 
From last weekend...

5195425926_6ff09274e3_z.jpg

5195407704_66815666eb_z.jpg

5194817685_b4a35edb2a_z.jpg
 
with a wide angle zoom and image stabilization, you should be more than fine shooting 1/30 - 1/60 unless your subject is moving around a lot.

I suggest doing some reading, since it looks like you're struggling to get some pretty basic stuff. There is a book out that pretty much EVERYONE suggests called "understanding exposure" by brian peterson. It is highly recommended and will help you to understand what you're changing with all the different settings and when to change them. I think it would help you a lot to read it.
 
Never above 1/1000th? I have never heard that before...

here is an example of 1/2500th, what negative effect did this shutter speed have on this image?

4471294192_c87331565a_z.jpg
 
Well, considering you were on your lowest ISO setting, your DoF is completely adequate, I'd say you were fine using a high shutter speed.

When you're shooting ISO1600 and your aperture is wide enough to make your DoF too shallow for the photo, the light lost shooting 1/5,000 sec could be better used by lowering the ISO and narrowing the aperture.

I'm sure you weren't actually looking for an explanation though, more just trying to tell me I was wrong.


with a wide aperture, I shoot above 1/1,000, and when shooting fast action I shoot above 1/1,000. Other than that, there's no reason.
 
sleeper3 said:
Well, considering you were on your lowest ISO setting, your DoF is completely adequate, I'd say you were fine using a high shutter speed.

When you're shooting ISO1600 and your aperture is wide enough to make your DoF too shallow for the photo, the light lost shooting 1/5,000 sec could be better used by lowering the ISO and narrowing the aperture.

I'm sure you weren't actually looking for an explanation though, more just trying to tell me I was wrong.


with a wide aperture, I shoot above 1/1,000, and when shooting fast action I shoot above 1/1,000. Other than that, there's no reason.
Click to expand...

No, I was looking for an explanation, because i couldn't see in that image what you were referring to. That makes sense though when adjusting your ISO you should never be above 1/1000 unless you have a lower ISO.

I just wanted to make sure we were on the same page. Not picking a fight here... Thanks!
 
Rosshole said:
Carl, think of it this way...

You will almost always want your ISO as low as possible

That is all.
Click to expand...

I understand that rule (with the exception of forgetting to fix it a couple of times, like after night shooting), but think I've been taking it too far and sacrificing adiquate DOF because of it though. I think my error was in thinking that a given fstop translated into a deeper DOF than it does.

My plan is to start at 7.1 instead of 4.5 on my 18-55, and basically not go below that, monitoring shutters and adjusting ISO as appropriate. If I'm shooting for a shallow dof intentionally, I'll bust out the 50mm, and likely leave the ISO at 100, barring low light. Then circle back and figure out if its helping...
 
Wagonbacker9 said:
I understand that rule (with the exception of forgetting to fix it a couple of times, like after night shooting), but think I've been taking it too far and sacrificing adiquate DOF because of it though. I think my error was in thinking that a given fstop translated into a deeper DOF than it does.

My plan is to start at 7.1 instead of 4.5 on my 18-55, and basically not go below that, monitoring shutters and adjusting ISO as appropriate. If I'm shooting for a shallow dof intentionally, I'll bust out the 50mm, and likely leave the ISO at 100, barring low light. Then circle back and figure out if its helping...
Click to expand...

DoF is just as much a function of focal length and distance to subject as it is aperture. Also, f/7.1 with a low ISO is going to result in slow shutter speeds unless you are in direct sunlight.
 
Rosshole said:
DoF is just as much a function of focal length and distance to subject as it is aperture. Also, f/7.1 with a low ISO is going to result in slow shutter speeds unless you are in direct sunlight.
Click to expand...

So, bumping the ISO up to say 400 will be necessary. Mostly my goal is to force myself to be comfortable with that, and then develop a more functional approach once I can see and understand the result. I'd love to know what the math on a given focal length/fstop combo is in a tangible measurement... is such a thing even... empiracle?
 
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