Any photographers in here?

gr? said:
I wouldn't call myself a pro but I'm above the amateur phase... probably along the lines of a semi-pro since I'm making $$$ on the gigs and work on a consistent basis, but photography isn't my main source of income.

Hi! Welcome to the forum. thanks for sharing some background info. Your gear list is quite impressive! Post some of your work for us to aahhh and ooooh at. :)
 
Here are some pics I took at the train station on my way home after picking up my new digital P&S.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/justin_franks/sets/72157600284924430/



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LEXi73 said:
When buying used is there anything to necessarily look out for? also please point me to a place to buy used equipment. I know that where the money is (and should be) spent is on lenses. If i get a used 20d, what is a good all around lens to start with that is decently priced? Thanks for all the help.

www.fredmiranda.com is where I go. Most of my camera bodies I buy used (10D, 20D, 1D MKII all bought used). I prefer buying from that site since it's full of semi pro and pro photographers so most of the gear is well cared for. Most users will post a bunch of pics to give you a good idea of what to expect. Users are honest and straightforward. I'd look for something with less than 30,000 clicks and a body that isn't beat to hell. The cameras are very robust and can take a lot of abuse, so I wouldn't worry too much about how the body looks. Sample shots from the camera are good, at both low ISO and high ISO. High ISO shots can show any problems with banding or hot spots.

If you buy an entry level body (ie XT, XTi) and want to continue with photography, you will quickly find shortfalls with the body, such as a small viewfinder, small body that isn't as comfortable to grip for long periods (becomes obvious when using the heavier L lenses), not as accurate AF system, and not-as-good ergonomics as the prosumer and pro bodies.

For just the body, expect to pay about $600-700. You can find a kit lens for about $50 (18-55). I'd suggest starting on the kit lens then moving towards a better piece of glass. If, for some reason, you don't like shooting with a digital SLR, you can sell the gear and barely lose anything. If you decide to move on, you'll want to invest (depending on your budget) on better glass, such as the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 (mid range), Canon 17-40 f/4.0L (mid range), Canon 24-70 f/2.8L (high end) or Canon 17-55 f/2.8 IS (high end) - these would be your everyday wide angle zoom lens. You may eventually move to more specialized lenses, such as macros, telephoto, super wide angle, fish eye, etc.

Then take into account other accessories such as filters, flash/strobes, bags, tripod legs, tripod heads, memory cards, extra batteries, etc. The hobby quickly adds up $$$$$$.
 
ChopstickHero said:
Hi! Welcome to the forum. thanks for sharing some background info. Your gear list is quite impressive! Post some of your work for us to aahhh and ooooh at. :)
I'll start another thread one of these days. I didn't want to post too much my first week here.
 
gr? said:
I'll start another thread one of these days. I didn't want to post too much my first week here.

I suppose we can give you a pass at posting picks (for now), but in the mean time why don't you tell us more about your shooting style and preferred subject matter. I know you said you like to shoot cars. Since that's an often selected subject do you have any techniques that give your images a different look? Do you prefer to shoot cars in studio, out in the open, or at work like on the road or track?
 
My shooting style is pretty basic. I don't do much post processing so what you see is how the image is taken from the camera. I shoot in RAW so I'll tweak the colors, saturation, sharpness, white balance, curves, etc but I don't spend an hour on one image with 24 layers. Some people are great at photoshop and can make a bland image into one that is amazing, but that's not my style.

I prefer shooting with a telephoto lens for compression, mainly because I live in an area that doesn't have good architecture or beautiful landscapes (mountains, lakes, etc) so I focus more on the car and less on the surroundings. How I shoot the car also depends on the owner, the car, the mods, etc.. each car is different. I'll chat with the owner to learn about the mods, what the owner is proud of or what makes the car unique. Taking these things, I'll focus on certain parts of the cars.

Take this supercharged Viper, for example. The sunsetting on the beautiful red paint makes for a dramatic image. Add in the gorgeous Forgeline wheels and you get a nice image by using the converging lines from the hood and the side skirt, meeting at the wheel well. If you try this shot a WRX, it just won't work since the lines don't flow the same.
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I was at a car show and met up with the owner of this EVO. We sent some emails before the show and had this planned for a quick photo shoot. He wasn't expecting anything spectular, he just wanted a few shots so we kept it simple. There wasn't anything on his EVO that made it different than the other modified ones out there, so I used this location for an artisic image (red doors with the blue car)
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This Grand Prix GTP owner hired me to do a shoot so he could submit the images for a calendar competition (he won and got the cover). The paint was amazing, so matched with the aggressive hood scoops, I wanted something to make for sharp lines on the hood for a straight on shot.
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This above image was my favorite from the bunch but he submitted this photo:
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A co worker picked up a Sky Redline a few months back. This wasn't a planned thing but after work, I drove home and got my camera and snapped off a few pics. Because it was around 5:30 and lighting was harsh, plus the location wasn't anything special (lots of reflections), I didn't get any shots I liked except for this one:
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This was the location we used since it was 1/2 mile from work and the lot was empty:
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It was a sunny day so the sky was washed out.

I attend a lot of car shows and events, some for fun and others for magazine coverage. Since the cars are parked tight, I can't control the location or lighting, I focus on smaller aspects of the car such as emblems, wheels, brakes, etc
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People take wheel shots all the time so it's nice to see different perspectives on occasion.

I prefer shooting motorsports, either drifting or SCCA sanctioned events. <3 panning shots
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The magazine I shoot for currently, Down Shift Magazine (http://www.downshiftmagazine.com) has ties with Hot Import Nights; if you've ever attended HIN, you know it's dark, lots of smoke, loud music, very poor lighting... a photographer's nightmare (hate the colored strobes). I can manage a few good shots before they turn off the lights (photographers are allowed in at 4, lights off by 4:20-4:30, doors open to public at 5)
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A few non-automotive shots
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Pictures I took for my mother.. some flowers in her garden. This was the first time I took a picture of a flower; I haven't taken one since then (allergies lol)
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I need to learn CS2 more and improve my post processing skills on portraits.
 
Hey I just picked up a Sony Cybershot DSC H9, a tripod, and PSP Photo XI. I got it since I'm going to be stationed in Kuwait for the next 12-15 months, and wanted to do some photography on base. Anyone have any idea where I can host my pictures? <3
 
photobucket, flickr, pbase are a few free ones

your own server can cost as little as $5-8/month and is worth it if you plan on uploading a bunch of photos. I pay $12/month for 5.3 TB of bandwidth, which is more than enough (I can barely use 1 TB/month).
 
gr? said:
Some people are great at photoshop and can make a bland image into one that is amazing, but that's not my style.

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I need to learn CS2 more and improve my post processing skills on portraits.

With the subjects like the one above you don't really have to Post Process, do you.

PS on portraits is about making "a bland [person] into one that is amazing, but that's not my style." You may be breaking one of your photographic tenants.

I, for one, won't hold it against you. I think most of the images people see and try and emulate are really PP'd a great deal compared to what came off the image sensor. Every image in every magazine (save National Geographic & News rags) is post processed. Fashion mags and Ads go so far as to lengthen legs, increase busts, and tummy-tuck ALL.THE.TIME.

I think your goal of becoming more skilled at CS2 (or CS3, even) is admirable. I think using PS skillfully results in images where no one knows there's been post processing. Besides, I like to think of PP more as overcoming the limitation of current digital equipment rather then "creating" and image in the computer.
 
Hey gr thanks for all your help. Great shots also! I found a few 20D's on fredmiranda.com. most seem to be going around $800 for the body, kit lens, and battery grip. Saying that you said $650 for a used 20D do these two options seem over priced or was it that $650 is a lucky number?
 
i like to shoot pictures here and there. but i dont have anything high tech. im a graphic designer. my girlfriend is the photographer. she recently just picked up a barely used fuji s3 pro. retail on this is a pretty nice number. she got it for 800 bucks. its really an awesome camera. especially at 800 bucks too, such a steal.
 
LEXi73 said:
Hey gr thanks for all your help. Great shots also! I found a few 20D's on fredmiranda.com. most seem to be going around $800 for the body, kit lens, and battery grip. Saying that you said $650 for a used 20D do these two options seem over priced or was it that $650 is a lucky number?

$650 is for just the body. A battery grip adds about $100-130 to the price. The kit lens is about $50, so $800 seems about right.
 
NVP5White said:
PS on portraits is about making "a bland [person] into one that is amazing, but that's not my style." You may be breaking one of your photographic tenants.

I think your goal of becoming more skilled at CS2 (or CS3, even) is admirable. I think using PS skillfully results in images where no one knows there's been post processing. Besides, I like to think of PP more as overcoming the limitation of current digital equipment rather then "creating" and image in the computer.

Automotive photography and fashion/portrait photography both require a different style of post processing. The model/portrait shots you see today are highly post processed; it's an industry norm. You can take a great image of a model but post up a lightly touched up image and others will tear it apart. Wrinkles, blemishes, etc.. will show up. The post processing removes those blemishes so that the image meets the industry norm.
 
gr? said:
$650 is for just the body. A battery grip adds about $100-130 to the price. The kit lens is about $50, so $800 seems about right.

I paid 650 for my used 20D a few months ago so thats about right, I picked up the opteka grip and 2 batteries from amazon for 90 bucks and it works well just like it did no my XT.

so yup thats a decent deal for sure
 
gr? said:
Automotive photography and fashion/portrait photography both require a different style of post processing. The model/portrait shots you see today are highly post processed; it's an industry norm. You can take a great image of a model but post up a lightly touched up image and others will tear it apart. Wrinkles, blemishes, etc.. will show up. The post processing removes those blemishes so that the image meets the industry norm.

Yes, that's precisely what I mean. PP for portraits is exactly about changing what comes out of the camera into something better looking, often by removing items in the image. This is in direct contrast from your previously stated photographic preference to not do much PP beyond global levels/curves/sharpening/etc changes. I suppose the real question I have is do you feel like PP is generally "bad" or do you believe it is just another tool for creating finished images.

I press on this topic because I've seen a number of comments in recent photo contests that imply that PP is bad and that non-PP'd pictures are inherently better. As a Pro I respect your perspective on the subject.

You car pictures are great. Its not always easy to showcase flawless paint but you do it masterfully.

For portraits I suggest moving away from natural lighting by using off-camera flashes fired by remote. I read Strobist daily (http://strobist.blogspot.com/)

EDIT: I got my refurb D50 from Cameta Camera's eBay store. They have new 30D bodies for $760, which I think is a good price. It says it comes factory sealed with USA warranty so its not a gray-market unit.
 
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NVP5White said:
I suppose the real question I have is do you feel like PP is generally "bad" or do you believe it is just another tool for creating finished images.
I have no problems with post processing on a good image. It only bugs me when people use post processing to make a bad image try and look good, or those who crank up the saturation and contrast and call it a good image.
 
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