Another Protege5 thread

i’ve decided i’m going to do the coolant bypass from the throttle body, so that solves my coolant feed issue. i’m going to run no intercooler, no fuel pressure regulator and i’ll see about adding a bpv. by the way, if anyone knows which coolant line going to the throttle body is the “feed”, let me know, they both seem to come from the same place.

it’s such low boost than im not too worried about anything, and i think im going to drive it with the wastegate tied open until i know everything is safe, and then i’ll figure out what wastegate i need, i can’t seem to find anything for 3-4 psi.

all i want is cool sounds! and a little bit more power to tow a car full of friends and skis up a canyon. and maybe to not have to floor it to keep up with highway traffic

once i have the fuel system set up, i’ll see how 7psi feels for a day before changing it back, im not building it for 7psi and with no intercooler or bov it’s a stupid idea.

on a side note, about a month ago me and my friend pulled his 02 Subaru 2.5rs engine out and began rebuilding it, really cool stuff, we got it back from the machine shop and we’re gonna have a little race when we’re done with both of our cars, i lost to him before, and at 4psi, i will again.

those Subaru engines freak me out, he’s on his second engine, the original got rod knock and blew up, but it lasted about 225k miles, and the one we’re rebuilding right now has melted pistons at about 60k. my girlfriends 06 Subaru Outback has blown head gaskets at about 150k, my moms old 91 Subaru Legacy shot a piston through the wheel at about 175k, and in my auto class we have a shop 05 Subaru Legacy that’s about to blow up from rod knock too (about 200k). I really wanted a forester for my first car but my dad told me he’d never let me buy a Subaru after my mom’s blew up.

he’s putting new cams and porting his heads and intake manifold. i’ll attach some pictures.
we painted the engine bay black and we’re prepping to paint the exterior grey, i’m excited for it to be running again, that car keeps me interested in my own. makes me want to pull my engine to install the turbo. it’s easier than i thought. manual swap still haunts me.
 

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got some stuff done tonight, mounted turbo and deleted vtcs and vics! i’m going to combine the chambers in the intake manifold, it’ll be a long weekend but hopefully it’ll be boosted by the end of it!

i’m going to replace the rear motor mount and i was thinking of doing my timing belt but after checking, she looks like she has some more miles left.

for turbo coolant feed, i talked to my shop teacher and he said that the throttle body coolant lines aren’t too important, so im going to do that. all i need now is a wastegate, intake piping, and oil lines until the turbo is ready. shop teacher also told me not to weld into the oil pan and to just make a flange and a gasket instead. we’re going to print out some gaskets.

i’m thinking im going to stick the wastegate open until i can afford some gauges just to be safe. i think i might need a smaller radiator fan too.

what should i do about the pcv system? i’m sure boost isn’t going to play well with it and im thinking another breather on the valve cover and capping off the ports on the manifold would work but ive never heard of anyone doing it.

i thought the j pipe wouldn’t fit but it’s the same for the msp and the p5. i’m going to reuse the exhaust gaskets until i hear a leak because im as broke as it gets.

i wasn’t planning on doing this anytime soon but i had some free time and i got more done than i was planning on doing. here’s some more pictures.
 

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😘😘
 

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You're in it now! Good luck. I done that plenty of times.
 
yeah, i’m gonna run a header dump for the time being, big things coming, spent about 2k so far on everything but im excited. im stripping all the paint off the engine and tucking the harness. chrome engine and purple harness is the plan. i’ll post some pics tonight
 
yeah, i’m gonna run a header dump for the time being, big things coming, spent about 2k so far on everything but im excited. im stripping all the paint off the engine and tucking the harness. chrome engine and purple harness is the plan. i’ll post some pics tonight
I would focus on getting the mechanical stuff pristine before prettying up the engine bay
 
it’s all at the machine shop, everything that’s part of the engine is all very clean, i just wanted something to do while i wait on the shop to be done.
 
it’s all at the machine shop, everything that’s part of the engine is all very clean, i just wanted something to do while i wait on the shop to be done.
good idea. something cool to install while the engine is out would be an aftermarket front swaybar. it is a pain in the butt to remove while the engine is in
 
ooh that might be smart. i just got a bunch of parts delivered for the engine so hopefully i can get to building the engine soon. it’s starting to pick up again, im feeling the motivation
 
pics. getting block on wednesday. no issues yet, finished the harness tonight. the transmission manual lever spun and it’s not clicking anymore when i turn it which is the only problem im seeing, but worst comes to worst i throw a manual in.
 

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pics. getting block on wednesday. no issues yet, finished the harness tonight. the transmission manual lever spun and it’s not clicking anymore when i turn it which is the only problem im seeing, but worst comes to worst i throw a manual in.
I emailed Lentech about the auto's weak points and got this back: "Weak points show up as power increases (obviously) but certainly some sooner than others.The differentials aren't limited slip and excessive wheelspin (mostly one-wheel peeling) can take out the diff. Direct clutch (3rd/4th clutch) has limited capacity and should get more friction discs on anything above stock power. Input shaft eventually becomes a limitation but not usually until somewhere around 300hp."

On the option of installing an LSD in the automatic, they used to machine units built for the MTX-75 to fit. They said it is not a DIY job and needs professional work.

Just don't floor it shifting from 3/4 and no burnouts. Then it should hold up ok.

My guess here is that they got the transmission to take above 300whp before the major parts broke.
 

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