Another Mod Question (What should I do)

[thezfunk]

I am about to get my car out of storage and I am contemplating modifications. I was waiting until the factory warranty was up to do anything too serious. I want to see how far I can get with just bolt-ons at this point. I need some advice to the order of things.

I currently have a CAI, Catted DP, Shifter bushings, Rear MM and Dash Hawk.

Here is what I am considering as possibilities

Transmission side MM
JBarone Shift Plate
Blow Off Value
TMIC, Intake pipe, boost tubes
Fuel Pump
Iridium spark plugs (if I have the TMIC off I might as well)
Coilovers

Eventually a new exhaust manifold and modded turbo from PG.
Eventually a CPE standback.

I don't plan on dumping all this money in this year but I would like to do a few things.

 

[ms3fireman]

Spark plugs are a must in this car. Itv 22s are what most people use. Having a down pipe your going to want to wait on and upgraded intercooler because you will get boost cut. You'll want either a bypass valve from forge or a 50/50 hybrid(turbosmart) not a blow off valve since are cars are not made to run vta. Also an exhaust and race pipe, if you worried about sound get a Ms cbe and you can have a a resonator welded to the test pipe. Right now you have a restrition after the down pipe limiting the potential of your downpipe. Speaking of restictions, your turbo inlet is a rstriction on your cai.
As for an order of upgrades:
first check to see if you are holding boost if you are you can skip the bypass valve until when you have money burning a hole in your pocket.
Then 1. I step colder spark plugs
2. Turbo inlet
3. Test pipe
4. Cbe
5. Tuning cp-e or Cobb
6. Intercooler ( do boost tubes now while it's off)
7. Side mm
8. Turbo and engine build people seem to have trouble at this point with engine longevity
as for the shifter plate you can get that whenever same with coilovers and sway bars.
Those supension upgrades really fall into a different category. Some people believe that is better to do them first so the car can put the power to the ground. Either way handling will be much improved.
Just my .02 someone may have different advice
also u didn't mention the fuel pump add that in before the tune

 

[ms3fireman]

Your sig says you have a ms cbe so scratch that.

 

[thezfunk]

I am not sure what you are reading but I don't have a Cat Back Exhaust listed anywhere. I don't have it listed as something I have and I don't have it listed as something I plan on doing anytime soon. As far as I have read, the stock one will handle more air flow than the stock turbo can flow so there isn't a gain until I put in the reworked K04 or go with a bigger turbo.

I do have a fuel pump upgrades on my list.

I also realize that a VTA BOV is not what I want. I want a recirculating BOV.

What is an easy way to check to see if the stock one is holding boost?

 

[ms3fireman]

Datalog your boost vs rpm in a gear that gets full boost. I forgot what the actually rpm is but just make sure it holds boost till 5 k before dropping off. The other thing is make sure you know what ur getting into before you start. If you blow it's gonna get expensive quick and unless ur dealer is cool it won't be covered.

 

[MSMS3]

I want a recirculating BOV. What is an easy way to check to see if the stock one is holding boost?

If you do not have Dash Hawk or some other type of "data logging" device, just go to any auto parts store and get a simple MANUAL vacuum/boost gauge and "t" fit it into the small hose going to your stock BPV. Well under $50. Some kind of boost monitoring is an absolute must and would be purchase number one if you don't already have that base covered. If you are holding idle at about -22 inches (not psi when measuring vacuum) and holding boost in gears three and higher at or near 15.7 psi up to about 5,500 rpm, then you are not leaking. Beginning at 5,800 rpm the throttle plate starts closing and boost will be dialed back. That is normal and it to protect the small turbo from overheating.

I can't make my stock BPV leak with my mods and now 31,000 miles on the car and see absolutely no reason to replace it. I'm running 17 psi on stock ECU due to having a catless dp/rp. If you are pursuing performance, there are better ways to spend your money.

If it truly leaks, or if you MUST have an aftermarket BPV, the Forge 2nd gen seems to be well received by many here because it gives a more "lively" response in that when adjusted properly, it will recover boost after shift in first and second gear a bit quicker than the stock valve. But the stock valve will be smoother in operation and in objective testing has been shown to actually hold boost at a higher level in the "money" gears - third and higher, than the Forge.

 

[thezfunk]

As stated in my previous posts, I do have a dash hawk. I will setup some data logging with that to check BOV.

So, ignoring the BOV for now...maybe fuel pump internals? I am leaning toward redoing the TMIC, boost tubes, and intake pipe but it seems fuel cut becomes a problem when moving that much air?

 

[MSMS3]

Thanks, missed the Dash Hawk. Sorry. For what it may be worth, at my mod level which is similar to you but also catless, I am getting brutal fuel/load cut (injectors slamming shut) when temps are much below 60 degrees F. Above that she's a demon. She flies. Stock ECU, stock BPV (which works excellently).

So you may be close to maxing out on stock tune. You're on the border line for colder plugs. Check yours. If they look good and if you are not getting any KR on your DH, stick with stock range. Probably don't need colder ones unless you go catless or unless you go with a tune that pushes boost higher or leans out the engine more. You should be seeing about one pound higher boost or so -- maybe 16.5 to 17 with your dp. Intercooler might push you into load cut, or at least so in cool/cold weather. Power modding these cars safely is tricky and sometimes contrary to conventional thinking.

 

[thezfunk]

Good thing you pushed me to looking into it because I found some interesting things.

First, I set a spark knock retard alarm and saw it get to 6.0 and 7.4 tonight. It didn't happen when I would expect it to happen. It would happen as I stopped accelerating. Not when I let off the gas but when I would get on the gas and then hold it at a point before stepping on it some more or backing off.

My vac/boost idles at about -19 which is off from the -22 you posted. Why is that? Is that bad?

I did a hard pull up through 4th which I'll post. I logged RPM, Boost/Vac, Boost PSI, Spark Knock Retard and Boost Air Temp. It shows me getting up to ~17.5 PSI at ~5600RPM. It also shows me getting Spark Knock Retard up to 3.5 which isn't as bad as I saw tonight, like I mentioned.

http://clip2net.com/page/m0/4699977

I hope someone can look at that and tell me more. So this means I need the colder plugs? Some other mod or help or is it fine?