Annoying noise

Hey guys, I am planning on installing my Eibachs this weekend and after reading EVERY reply on here I am going to make damn I have some washers on hand. My question is: Are there torque specs on everything that needs to be removed to install the springs ? Or is everybody just tightening everything up by hand as tight as you can get it and calling it good ?
 
ok...

jic-magic flt-a2's and i have the same problem. highly doubt its the washer trick, since the strut and strut body are never disassembled in this installation...both are entirely new.



any idea's?
 
Joe PR5 said:
the 9/16 are for the bolts to take the seat belt stuff out.. I dont know the other size...
Ya, I know I'm replying a 1 year thread....

The seat belt stuff are using 16mm nuts, and the strut nuts are 17mm.
 
hmm wow dredging up old thread here... shall try this on the weekend.. as interestingly enough i get this rattle... on the L/H side.... the opposite to everyone on the boards here!!! wonder what does that...

and florence there was no 16mm bolts... only 14mm and 17mm over the whole strut install....
 
Just installed Espelirs and have been hexed with the R/R clunk. Going to check the rubber spring seating tomorrow and pick up batteries for my camera and a few 17mm washers. If there is enough light, I will take lots-o-pictures.
 
Ok, the washer trick did not work for me...I actually don't believe it should be working for anyone. Granted the threads on the strut end as the pictures eariler in this thread show, but the pictures do not show what the inside of the nut looks like. It has 1-2mm on the bottom end that are not threaded which allows it to tighten down completely whether you use extra washers or not. Additionally, this bolt has nothing to do with the new springs. It simply attaches the top of strut to the center of the spring mounting. Installing shorter springs shouldn't have any affect on this. If you removed this bolt from a non-lowered protege you would see the same gap between the end of the threading and where the cup-shaped washer sits.

Anyway, I guess my next step is to put my car back up on jack stands and pull the whole assembly out and make sure the rubber spring grommets were installed properly. Is there anything else I should be looking for?
 
chuyler1 said:
Ok, the washer trick did not work for me...I actually don't believe it should be working for anyone. Granted the threads on the strut end as the pictures eariler in this thread show, but the pictures do not show what the inside of the nut looks like. It has 1-2mm on the bottom end that are not threaded which allows it to tighten down completely whether you use extra washers or not. Additionally, this bolt has nothing to do with the new springs. It simply attaches the top of strut to the center of the spring mounting. Installing shorter springs shouldn't have any affect on this. If you removed this bolt from a non-lowered protege you would see the same gap between the end of the threading and where the cup-shaped washer sits.

Anyway, I guess my next step is to put my car back up on jack stands and pull the whole assembly out and make sure the rubber spring grommets were installed properly. Is there anything else I should be looking for?

I sort of agree with you about the washer. On my fronts it made no difference. But on the back, there was play between the nut and the top of the strut. The washer got rid of that, but my problem was that the rubber at the top of the spring worked its way loose and the spring was bouncing on the metal instead of the rubber. I took the wheel off and could see it with a flashlight that it was not sitting right...
 
I don't understand it either. I've had various setups and different results, and it's really annoying the crap out of me.

1) God Awful Tom Motorsport sleeve-type coilovers w/ OEM struts = no clunks, but lots of grinding (typical of these bad fake coilovers)

I then replaced them with

2) Tein S-Tech w/ OEM struts (no washers) = clunk in the trunk (Rear Right only)

3) Tein S-Tech w/ OEM struts + washers = clunk seemed a little less severe, but it was definitely still there and annoying as hell

I thought,...maybe it's my struts

4) Tein S-Tech w/ Tokico HPs (no washers) = Worse clunk than ever (mostly rear right, but very very faint in rear left)

I thought maybe it's a weight thing, so I sat in the trunk on the right side while my wife drove. Adding an extra 190 Lbs to taht corner. Still clunked just as much.

I have watched it with everythign ripped open, and the top hat seems to smack the mounting point (not sure of all of the terms) when going over bumps. But even with washers in, it does this.

This s*** is annoying the hell out of me. Does anyone have ANY other ideas???

It's not a crappy install, because everything was torn apart and put back together when we replaced the struts. Setup 1 was done by a professional shop. Setups 2 was done by me. Setup 4 was done by a professional shop.

Seems some people get it, and others don't. That's what confuses me. I wonder if there was a certain batch on teh assembly line that something was just a little off and it's causing this. Mine's a 2002. Anyone having a clunk with an '03?
 
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Mine is an 03 and is becoming more of a rattle than a clunk now that I've been driving around for 3 days with all the panels off and I can hear it clearly.
 
Hear are my results:

stock springs + stock struts = wasn't aware of any clunk
goldlines + stock struts = clunk / rattle
goldlines + stock struts + washers = a lot quieter until endlinks were shot
goldlines + tokico hp struts + washers + new endlinks = perfectly quiet

Did you guys change endlinks? Mine were absolute sh*t.

Jon
 
What would I be looking for that would make an endlink bad? we didn't even take the endlinks off, we removed the sway bar so we could maneuver a little.
 
chuyler1 said:
What would I be looking for that would make an endlink bad? we didn't even take the endlinks off, we removed the sway bar so we could maneuver a little.

Yeah, we did the same when we put my Teins in. But when we replaced the struts this past weekend, obviously we couldn't do that. Ended up having to replace one of the rear endlinks, the other was fine. But the one that was replaced was on the passenger side, and that's where I'm getting teh clunking mostly, so that kills that theory too (dunno)
 
It was sunny and dry out when I pulled into my apartment complex so I pulled the jack out and lifted the pesky right-rear corner. Low-and-behold.

IMG_0782.jpg


Without taking the wheel off or loosening any bolts I was able to move around the upper spring and reposition it. I'm eating dinner now and then I'm off to band practice...I pray my ride will be quiet and free of clunks and sqeeks. If all goes well I can finally put all the interior panels back on.
 
chuyler1 said:
Without taking the wheel off or loosening any bolts I was able to move around the upper spring and reposition it.

This was my problem as well, but I wasn't able to work it in to place while it was in the car. I had to remove the strut and reassemble it, but it took care of the noise - so, I'm a happy camper.
 
i'll join the long list...i have the same problem...got tokico sturts and racing beat springs...how to i get rid of the noise?! dont want anything to get damaged!
 
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