Alternators For high powered stereos?

OrngSpd03

Member
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2003 MazdaSpeed, Spicy Orange
Anybody know where I can get a higher output altenator for my MSP? I don't think the stock altenator can hack it with all my new stereo equipment im going to install! Do you think I can get away with the stock alenator? This is what I'm Installing what do you think?

kenwood 1600watt Sub amp
kenwood 360watt 4 channel amp
2 12" Alpine type R Subs
Soundstream SPL 6X9s
Kenwood Execlon 6" Component set
1 faraud Monster Cap.
Tireflys Under Car Morping LED Kit
 
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im pretty sure you would be fine...i ran my 2 12" alpine type r's to a fosgate 401s amp with an alpine 9807 deck to just a regular autozone battery (i think duratec) not sure, but it was running on the stock alternator, but it was a 93 mazda mx6, and i had that system for over a year untill i had to sell the car, but im pretty sure you will be fine.
 
Ok, I was just making sure. It seems that anytime the fan kicks on or I slow down my lights dim, and that is with the Stock Stereo system. My battery is only a few months old and I got that one because the stock battery dimmed out worse thern this new optima.
 
and kenwood doesn't make a 1600 watt amp. they do however make an 800 watt amp that they market as a 1600 max power amp. i think their's is 919 watts, CEA-2006 rated.
 
got wake? said:
and kenwood doesn't make a 1600 watt amp. they do however make an 800 watt amp that they market as a 1600 max power amp. i think their's is 919 watts, CEA-2006 rated.
Owned , protege's electrical system is the suck. Not much you can do.
 
Thats very similar to the power I have been drawing on the stock alternator, stock battery, and NO CAP for some time now. The headlights lights dont dimm all that much at night but I am sure your cap will help with that.
 
got wake? said:
and kenwood doesn't make a 1600 watt amp. they do however make an 800 watt amp that they market as a 1600 max power amp. i think their's is 919 watts, CEA-2006 rated.
Kenwood KAC-X810D isn't 1600 watts? Where are you getting your ratings? That is very intresting. I know its only a peak rateing but I never heard the rateings you spoke of.(scratch)
 
Actually I dont believe caps do a damn thing with only 1 farad.
Instead get a better battery and 1sty's ground wire kit (or make your own) and you wont have a problem.

I am running just a optima red top with an pioneer p-6500 (lcd touch) alpine V- power amp running 2 JL audio XR-6.5CS 2 ways (components) 2 INfiity 6*9 3 ways and a Boss Powerdrive 2000 pushing 2 infinity kappa perfect 12's, with no headlight dimming to be found.
 
The best thing you can do would be first pick up an optima yellow top and beef up all of the grounds in the engine bay. A good thing to do when you upgrade the wires is to also sand down the point where he connector touches the body of the car down to the metal and then spray some rubberized under coating over it after you bolt down the wire.Also change the power wire to the alternator. Another good thing to do would be to run a ground wire directly from the battery to the back of the car this will give you less resistance in the grounding circut. The next thing to do is to put in like a 1 farad cap. It will help out the the dimming of your lights and give you a stiffer voltage rating to your amps
 
OrngSpd03 said:
Kenwood KAC-X810D isn't 1600 watts? Where are you getting your ratings? That is very intresting. I know its only a peak rateing but I never heard the rateings you spoke of.(scratch)
Peak power = bulls*** number. Its what the amp can produce for a millisecond, right before it explodes.

CAE2006 is a standardize test that allows the comsumer to compare amps equaly instead of by totaly BS stats like those that Kenwood use. No more hiding or fabricating numbers, which is why many brands don't get a CEA rating, they know they are full of crap and don't want hard evidence of it.

You system in no way needs a larger alternator. The only reason I ever got one was becuase I was running an Xtant X1001 and an Xtant X604.

If you need to stop dimming then upgrading the factory grounds and runnging larger wires from the alternator to the battery has been shown to help. Caps can help aswell but often you need 2 1 farad caps per 1000 watts RMS your using and thats only to make a noticable dent depending on the amps effeciency.
 
I agree. You don't need a new altenator. I ran a big stereo in my car and had to run 2 batteries with an isolator. I had bought a Orion battery isolator and used by factory battery with a Optima gel cel and the voltage would dip by about 1 or 2 volts on the heaviest bass notes. Also make sure your ground wire is as short as possible and is the same diameter as the power wire.

1sty: I was under the impression that the Xtant amps drew very little current compared to most amps. I am supprised that you had to run a bigger alterator??? I aslo find that the Caps are not worth a pinch of salt unless you listen to rock and roll. Any bass note that last for more that 2 or 3 senconds would kill by cap. How did you like your xtant amps??
 
I've been running 1.6kw of RMS power (not cea, but I've tested max potential and it is, indeed close) for a full year now. Stock batter and no groundkit even forlike 6months. Then I swapped up to an optima redtop, and then a groundwire kit. the groundwires did everyhting, the battery was more of an insurance move. I knew my stocker was going to die soon anyway. But I've said before and I'll say again, my voltage drop used to be about 1.5v during extended bassnotes and after the grounding kit, it's about .5v.

I would also liek to add the note that in electrical decives tehre's thing that make power and things that take it. and a cap does NOT make it, therefore because there's no way they're 100% efficient they do, indeed take it. They may smooth out occasional dips, but what happenswhen you've got a rollling bass song where the full capacity is drained within the fraction of a second's worth of juice it stores? suddenly your alternater's trying to both supply your amp AND charge your cap... ALo caps are freakin scary. all that juice stored in your car just waiting to shock the fu*k outta you.

moreso than anything else PLEASE use the search function. this one's been beaten to death. And Wakey up there's run an assload of power with no caps or alts. (makes my 1.6kw seem sissy)
 
ANDYMP3 said:
1sty: I was under the impression that the Xtant amps drew very little current compared to most amps. I am supprised that you had to run a bigger alterator??? I aslo find that the Caps are not worth a pinch of salt unless you listen to rock and roll. Any bass note that last for more that 2 or 3 senconds would kill by cap. How did you like your xtant amps??
NOt really, the X1001 was an effecient amp nor was the X604. FOr both amps, Xtant suggest a 120 amp fuse.....FOR EACH. Its overkilll for the X604 in the way I was using it but 80 amps wouldn't be far fetched. So in total the 2 amps where capable of pulling more then 180 amps. Thats a bit of a scary proposition for a 5 amp alternator.
 
OrngSpd03 said:
Kenwood KAC-X810D isn't 1600 watts? Where are you getting your ratings? That is very intresting. I know its only a peak rateing but I never heard the rateings you spoke of.(scratch)

no, it is definitely NOT a 1600 watt amp. right from kenwoods site.

800x1 at 2 ohm RMS rating.

here's the new KAC-X811D, which is the new model.
i doubt they changed the internals any, and it's CEA-2006 rating is 919x1 at 2 ohm. i do find that extremely funny that they are posting the CEA rating as their specs, yet better companies still have their ratings, which comply with the CEA-2006 standards, but are not the CEA ratings. the rockford T10001BD is CEA compliant with a rating of 500x1 at 4 ohms, yet at 4 ohms it puts out over 700 watts. the last birth sheet of one i say had a 1 ohm rating of over 1300 watts, yet they only claim 1000 watts. ah the fun in marketing. proof once again that kenwood has gone down with sony.
 
Its like having a 1600 watt pyle amp. Just does not put out the power that they claim. Expect the best amps to be any where from 60-80% efficient.
 
easies way i have found if your electrical system is lacking is put the audio system in then go to an autoparts store and have your alternator load tested so you can find out what your alternator is capbalbe of, and how much power your really drawing off of it, this will give you an idea of what is needed if anything at all to get your electrical system up to par.
 
The best thing you can do would be first pick up an optima yellow top and beef up all of the grounds in the engine bay. A good thing to do when you upgrade the wires is to also sand down the point where he connector touches the body of the car down to the metal and then spray some rubberized under coating over it after you bolt down the wire.Also change the power wire to the alternator. Another good thing to do would be to run a ground wire directly from the battery to the back of the car this will give you less resistance in the grounding circut. The next thing to do is to put in like a 1 farad cap. It will help out the the dimming of your lights and give you a stiffer voltage rating to your amps

Is this true?
As every other source Ive read has said to make all ground wires as SHORT as possible. making one the length of the car seems a bit far-fetched.
I already have an amp grounded in the rear of the car, does that count?
 

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