Air Box Delete......
- Thread starter cosh68
- Start date
Mazda2Dozo
Member
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- Mazda 2 Touring
scoobs
Stupid question...did you notice any gains after installing the corksport intake or was this purely for a cleaner look under the hood?
Stupid question...did you notice any gains after installing the corksport intake or was this purely for a cleaner look under the hood?
I saw good gain with the SRI, you can feel the variable cam kick in above 3.000rpm and the power is better in the top end. My next plan is to get the CBE + Race Pipe, removing 1 cat will help the bottom end and top end. And the sound alone is worth the money
I will post in here and in my build thread
I got to find the hardware but it will be a 1000time better than the large ugly oem box I will post in here and in my build thread
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with
If your going to take your ECU out be very very careful when removing the thread locked screws....
One of mine locked & spun the brass insert round in the air box housing.... I had to cut it off the
ECU & bracket.....
We have a cover & security screws on our UK version....
Using the 5 point torx bits instead of the usual 6 point, the screws can come out... well three of them...
Screw & brass insert....
Ridge on inside of air box recess for the PCB to locate....
Screw insert bracket removed.....
All back in, managed to get a brass insert from a PCB stand off post to fit in the hole in the airbox
where the other brass insert had spun... screws are now too long so need to get some shorter
ones ( thats why the nut & washer )
Next CAD up the scribbling's into a part that can be machined ;-)
Shaun.....
One of mine locked & spun the brass insert round in the air box housing.... I had to cut it off the
ECU & bracket.....
We have a cover & security screws on our UK version....
Using the 5 point torx bits instead of the usual 6 point, the screws can come out... well three of them...
Screw & brass insert....
Ridge on inside of air box recess for the PCB to locate....
Screw insert bracket removed.....
All back in, managed to get a brass insert from a PCB stand off post to fit in the hole in the airbox
where the other brass insert had spun... screws are now too long so need to get some shorter
ones ( thats why the nut & washer )
Next CAD up the scribbling's into a part that can be machined ;-)
Shaun.....
Well.... got a price for the alu front plate to be machined, then got a price for the rear box to be fabricated...
But then a mate posted this on the facebook group https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=688829411211528&set=pcb.926754014018026&type=1&theater
So you take the air box top off
Using a sharp knife work you way along the plastic weld join
You could fit this with the badge, or cut it down....
So you end up with this....
Now where to put it....
Shaun.......
But then a mate posted this on the facebook group https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=688829411211528&set=pcb.926754014018026&type=1&theater
So you take the air box top off
Using a sharp knife work you way along the plastic weld join
You could fit this with the badge, or cut it down....
So you end up with this....
Now where to put it....
Shaun.......
It seems like the stock airbox allows for air passage over the ECU to cool it, or does the air flow down a different path? If the ECU was designed to be cooled by the intake air, I'm assuming people will start seeing issues as the ECU is subjected to much larger temperature fluctuations especially during winter.
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- All Mazdas!
We ran our SRI for a few years with zero problems with the airflow not running through the cover. If Mazda was trying to cool the ecu you would expect to see fins inside the portion where the air passes. Another good example to look at is the Mazdaspeed 3 which has the ECU under the hood of a turbocharged car which generates higher under hood temperatures that the 2 will not see. The ECU is mounted to the side of the battery box with no cooling for it.
-Derrick
Well.... got a price for the alu front plate to be machined, then got a price for the rear box to be fabricated...
But then a mate posted this on the facebook group https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=688829411211528&set=pcb.926754014018026&type=1&theater
So you take the air box top off
Using a sharp knife work you way along the plastic weld join
You could fit this with the badge, or cut it down....
So you end up with this....
Now where to put it....
Shaun.......
I was looking at my engine bay the other day and I was thinking of cutting mine a bit more to fit like that. You just answered my questions
There is some potential for long term problems with the battery box mounting method. With the OEM set up the ECU and wiring harness are secured to the engine, so there is little to no relative movement. The battery box does not move with the engine forcing the short section of harness to flex. I would be concerned that over time the conductors would fail inside the insulation. The most likely area for failure would be ware the conductors meet the plug.
That would not be a concern of mine. Like Derrick mentioned, the speed3 has a similar mounting system for their ecu. Slightly different but there is still the movement of the battery box. And trust me if you've ever looked under the hood while the engine is running, or during a dyno and punching the gas, our engine moves more than anything. Mine almost slammed my firewall last dyno. It would be something to keep at eye on of your wires rub on anything but if they have enough give in them to move the ecu should hold up fine.
Sent from my HTCPO881 Sprint using Tapatalk
Sent from my HTCPO881 Sprint using Tapatalk
Yes, that is my point, the engine moves a lot and the battery box does not move. My concern is not for the ECU but the wire connections at the plug. In stock form there is no movement as the ECU moves right along with the engine. Move the ECU off the engine and the harness has to flex, the wires are bundled so the point of greatest flex will be the connector end. I am talking long term failure here. As a long time professional mechanic, first with motorcycles and snowmobiles and now as a utility fleet mechanic I have seen far to many of this type of failure. In most cases the point of greatest flex and also the point of greatest electrical resistance is at the connectors, not a good combination for long term reliability.
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- All Mazdas!
Any car has mutliple looms running from the engine to the chassis in fixed locations. Here is a good shot of the MS3 ecu which has a rope of a loom going from the ECU to the engine.
As long as the wires are not under stress when you move the ECU you should have no problems.
-Derrick
As long as the wires are not under stress when you move the ECU you should have no problems.
-Derrick
Well yes, the manufacture has to transition from the chassis to the engine but those harnesses are designed from the start for that purpose. In the case of moving the ECU the movement is the stress. I am not saying failure is certain only that the potential is there. After 40 years of vehicle repair I have chased this type of thing time and again. If the ECU harness were longer it would be able to absorb the movement but with the short piece we have on the 2 it will very likely cause flexing at the conductors just outside the connector. It can take tens of thousands of miles or years for the problem to arise.
The engine vibrates, shakes like a mofo. Most cars have their ECU fixed to a "non vibrating" area in the engine bay
Mounting the ECU on the engine like the Mazda2 was designed more as an ease to install the engine on the assembly line. They can mount the engine, transmission, and all main wiring in one shot from the bottom.
Mounting the ECU on the engine like the Mazda2 was designed more as an ease to install the engine on the assembly line. They can mount the engine, transmission, and all main wiring in one shot from the bottom.
