Aftermarket Rotors

[08BlkMS3]

I noticed not alot of people here do aftermarket rotors. Granted i looked, and it appears that there are not alot of them out there and our brakes work well. Just curious why people have not went with some StopTechs or Baers.

 

[NCZ13]

These cars are fairly new, and most people havent even gone through pads yet, not to mention the rotors probably wont need to be replaced for awhile.

if it isnt broken why fix it? You said yourself the brakes work well.

 

[Young Roids]

It has monster rotors as is I have no reason to change them

 

[derspi]

It has monster rotors as is I have no reason to change them

x2

Anything more would be overkill and it becomes an appearance mod at that point unless you're pushing monster HP.

 

[spdjnke]

The bloody things are HUUUUUUUUUUUUUGE! why waste money on Stop tech or like.

 

[ThreeEdgedSword]

Considering the Mazdaspeed 3's 60-0 braking distance on stock brakes is in line with that of a Corvette (C&D or MT had the mazdaspeed being a couple feet longer if I remember correctly, edmunds has it being a couple feet shorter), I can't see the point of a big brake kit unless you're going to be moding the hell out of your car.

According to Edmunds
2007 Mazdaspeed 3 60-0: 113ft
2008 Corvette 60: 118ft

 

[FrequentFlyer]

I can't see the point of a big brake kit unless you're going to be moding the hell out of your car.

Or roadracing.

But otherwise, don't waste your money. You can practically get this thing to stand on its nose as it is. I've had to brake hard to avoid road morons and I almost shat my pants when I had some brake induced fishtailing as most of the weight came off the back wheels. Crossdrilled/slotted rotors are over-rated for street use. For street use, you need the most metal to pad contact as possible. I would spend the money on some better pads, SS brake lines and flush the system with some new synthetic DOT4.

 

[ericrapp]

If i may jump in, i totally agree the stock setup is one of the better packages. I usually upgrade my brakes pretty early but i could not for this car. And i finally do need to replace pads at 34k. But i would not recommend going to aftermarket bits unless you are tracking or showing the car. They are fairly impressive from the factory and one of the highlights of the Mazdaspeeds performance capabilities. But of course that is my opinion and now that mine are needing replacement I will upgrade to.....

 

[melan47]

if you do track days it will help to change to slotted rotors to help cool pads. i went with stoptechs rotors and its night and day difference. stock pads are to soft for me on street, so i personally went with hawk hps for 85 bucks. and those accommodate both street and track days. don't skimp on anything brake related if you going to the track. the pads from mazda are 200 for the front set.

 

[wisniaPl]

If i may jump in, i totally agree the stock setup is one of the better packages. I usually upgrade my brakes pretty early but i could not for this car. And i finally do need to replace pads at 34k. But i would not recommend going to aftermarket bits unless you are tracking or showing the car. They are fairly impressive from the factory and one of the highlights of the Mazdaspeeds performance capabilities. But of course that is my opinion and now that mine are needing replacement I will upgrade to.....

but still 200 for oem brake pads.....i will buy ebc red stuff for 90bucks and they wont be so dusty i need to check mine i have squeek sometimes....

 

[ericrapp]

thanks guys. I have EBC redstuff on the kitchen table just waiting for rotors. I have had good experience with these pads on other cars. I also used the Hawks and found them to be an excellent choice. I will go with stainless lines 'Goodridge?' and a slightly higher boiling point brake fluid. Wisnia i picked up my red pads fr less than eighty bucks so shop around. i am looking at slotted and possbly dimpled rotors DBA Stoptech EBC. Just waiting for someone to give me a good package deal. melan47, any recommends on brake fluids? seems there are a wide selection of quality names? I was leaning Motul. To the original question I think Baer only makes a big brake kit for our car. Have you made any decisions 08blkMS3?

 

[08BlkMS3]

I have always upgraded my brakes on all the vehicles i owned but they have all "needed" it.... This car, not so much. I will definitly go with some better pads next time around but rotors would probably just be for aesthetics which i still might do. I just love the look of cross drilled and slotted rotor filling a wheel well. I have used both baer and stoptech in the past so i am not sure which on yet...

 

[Captain KRM P5]

i am thinking of slapping ms3 brakes on my mazda5. they saddled that van with standard 3 brakes, which for a vehicle of that mass is simply not going to work.

 

[GoFast]

I have always upgraded my brakes on all the vehicles i owned but they have all "needed" it.... This car, not so much. I will definitly go with some better pads next time around but rotors would probably just be for aesthetics which i still might do. I just love the look of cross drilled and slotted rotor filling a wheel well. I have used both baer and stoptech in the past so i am not sure which on yet...

just a little fyi, cross-drilled and/or slotted is not really an "upgrade". as a matter of fact i would feel less safe with those on my car than the stockers.

 

[08BlkMS3]

GoFast-Why....And please don't say cracking and splitting because some rotors do not have them cast with the slot's and holes in them. I have never had a set crack on me once, and the purpose for the vents and slots is to keep the gas produced while braking to vent out and keep a solid contact between the pads and the rotors as well as to cool them off quicker.

 

[Nliiitend1]

If you have any appreciable amount of "gas" being liberated from your brake pads, you should probably buy brake pads that were engineered in the current century...

A quick google search debunks this myth.

Darrick Dong; Director of Motorsports at Performance Friction: "Anyone that tells you that drilling makes the disc run cooler is smoking crack."

Power Slot: "At one time the conventional wisdom in racing circles was to cross-drill brake rotors to aid cooling and eliminate the gas emitted by brake pads. However, today’s elite teams in open wheel, Indy and Trans Am racing are moving away from crack prone, cross-drilled brake rotors in favor of rotors modified with a fatigue resistant slotting process."

Stop Tech: "StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors." (Note that even though Stop Tech sells both drilled and slotted rotors they do not recommend drilled rotors for severe applications.)

Wilwood: "Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity."

From Waren Gilliand: (Warren Gilliland is a well-known brake engineer in the racing industry and has more than 32 years experience in custom designing brake systems ...he became the main source for improving the brake systems on a variety of different race vehicles from midgets to Nascar Winston Cup cars.) "If you cross drill one of these vented rotors, you are creating a stress riser that will encourage the rotor to crack right through the hole. Many of the rotors available in the aftermarket are nothing more than inexpensive offshore manufactured stock replacement rotors, cross drilled to appeal to the performance market. They are not performance rotors and will have a corresponding high failure rate"

From Baer: "What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors?
In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads...However, with today’s race pad technology, ‘outgassing’ is no longer much of a concern...Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings."

Grassroots Motorsports: "Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it...Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)

AP Racing: "Grooves improve 'cleaning' of the pad surfaces and result in a more consistent brake performance. Grooved discs have a longer life than cross-drilled discs."

also from AP: "Cross drilled...can compromise disc life. Radiused drilled...mainly used for aesthetic reasons on road applications."

from: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=480082&page=2

 

[peeaanuut]

cross drilling just looks cooler. Thats the main purpose now a days. You will benefit from a slotted rotor on track but for street you wont really even feel the benefits.

Also remember, when you use race type brake components, many of them are meant to run at temperatures that you will not reach in regular street driving. having those parts on a daily driver can cause more harm than good with extended brake distances and many of them are noisier which to many is a minus.

If you need to get rotors, get slotted. But rotors should not be the first on your brake upgrade list. Try some better fluid, stainless lines and pads.

 

[GoFast]

If you have any appreciable amount of "gas" being liberated from your brake pads, you should probably buy brake pads that were engineered in the current century...

A quick google search debunks this myth.



from: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=480082&page=2

ed zachery

 

[GoFast]

it's up to you really but before you choose to get and drilled or slotted rotors you may want to research some s*** a bit first...

great example

and another...

 

[ericrapp]

Mr. Dongs composition from the experts really tells all. And Peeaanuut makes a good point. Same goes with serious performance tires and operating temps. if you have the money though and can afford the high end materials composition, and really care about rotational mass you can get drilled rotors that are awesome. On some sport bikes and Porsches, Mercedes AMG etc. But for most of us or at least me a higher heat tolerance slotted rotor with a more aggressive pad will fit the bill. But a great point is made by you guys; changes in brake materials are not something to take lightly. Do your research till you are comfortable and purchase a proven product combination for your driving needs, As was mentioned, Mazda did a pretty good job on this one and it will not be easy to improve. Wind it up to 120 and shut her down. And then do it again. The car is impressive I assure you.