AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

Ok everything seems ok experience when I first got into boost my car goes lean then goes too 11 on My wide band that's Strange does anyone else Have that problem

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Hello, is there a way someone can email me the r4 software? I bought my splitsecond years ago and now im required to pay. Ive emailed SS already and still waiting for their response. If anyone can email me the software, I'd greatly appreciated.

Bher009@hotmail.com
 
Anyone Have a PSC1-020 map for FMIC (preferably with vta bov), Turbo back exhaust (no cats), High flow single runner intake manifold, GT28RS turbo at 10psi they can email me?
I know its pretty specific but I figured I'd ask. Even if its something close that would work. I can install parts, but tuning is over my head lol

Nscaglione721@gmail.com
 
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Hey guys. new here, I just picked up a 2003 mazda protege5 but turbo'd with I believe msp components but with fmic. It's only boosting 5 psi. I want to bring it up to 7 or 8 and I've been reading about this ssafc. Which psc1 model do I need? And do I need to upgrade the injectors to or the msp ones are still good?
 
AFC won't raise the boost it just helps with the hesitation. MSP has the same injectors as all other 2.0L proteges. If you are boosting 5psi it's because your wastegate is set at 5psi. You can use a boost controller to raise it but you should learn more about the car before you mess with the boost levels. The stock block can only handle ~10psi and only with the right supporting mods.
 
need help as soon as possible with this, Im soldering all my connections for the afc unit, ive already had it wired in with butt connectors. the pink wire has another wire that snaked up thru the insulation to somewhere, does that wire need to be joined with the pink wire? im basically broke down until I get an answer on this. it doesn't appear that have ever been connected to the pink wire. the jumper leads to a black wire with a small white trip.
 
Is there anyone out there still making maps for these cars? Or even if I could tell someone all that I have done to the car could they recommend a map to use?
 
If you read the first page is has all the maps and lists what mods they had. You have to tune it yourself or find someone local that knows how. Most shops don't tune with the R4 software anymore but some older guys may know how. These AFCs are ~20 year old technology
 
I understand. I am guessing downloading a map that best fits and then fine tuning it myself is what needs to be done. If I could find someone who knows how I would rather let them do it. And your right finding someone who knows how is difficult. I live in the North Georgia area and no one seems to really know how to tune these cars. I cant even find any who specializes with Mazda vehicles. People I have spoke with have only referred me to others who have only referred me .....continuous cycle of referring. But anyways Split Sec does have Downloadable Tech Note sheets I could study and figure out how to at least begin with doing it myself.
 
With tuners this old and with such few capabilities, honestly I wouldn't plan on finding a tuner that would touch it, unless its someone who was one of the OG MSPers from a decade ago.
 
I tuned mine using my laptop, WBO2 with data logging, and the street. I did 1st and 2nd gear on regular streets and higher gears on the hwy. Nothing too drastic, just adding/subtracting fuel at RPM and boost levels to smooth out the AFR.
 
Yea I'm just going to have to sit down and study everything. I would like to learn how to do this anyways.

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If you don't have a WBO2 with logging just stop right now (and I haven't read the past 20 posts so bear with me). If you have a WBO2, then you hook everything up to logging, then do a run in 1st gear. Trim the fuel levels up/down to even out the fuel map after you get into boost. You want to aim for 11.5:1 to be safe (I think, it's been a while since I've done this). Below are some dyno graphs I had taken. The red line for the A/F ratio is at 13:1 because it's being read at the tailpipe. They configure it because on average you lose a bit between the exhaust manifold O2 sensor (where your ECU and SSAFC read it) and the tail pipe. The stock AFR drops below what the dyno can measure because Mazda programmed the MSP for safety, it runs pig rich. Check online for the magic number but I think it's 11.5:1. The first dyno image below is the super map and you can see how it gets a little lean in the higher RPMs. To keep things safe I added fuel bit by bit until it dropped. I was unable to program out the drop in AFR when you enter boost, but I was able to even it out a bit. The second graph shows the stock readings and my custom tweak of the SuperMap.

When I did these runs on the street my WBO2 was reading around 11.5:1 and that's what I was aiming for after you get into boost. The car drove really well, but I was never able to program out the problem when you shift, but I was also running a FMIC at stock boost levels. Running a stock or aftermarket SMIC is easier to handle at stock boost levels because you have more consistent air volume. With a FMIC and stock boost, it's difficult for the turbo to keep the entire system filled with air. Thus when I shifted, the mixture would be too rich or too lean (can't remember which) and the car would bog down. Kind of rambling now but I hope this helps point you in the right direction.

1) Get a WBO2 with data logging capability
2) Hook up the SSAFC and the WBO2 to a laptop and do runs
3) Adjust the fuel map up or down to smooth out the AFR graph

supermap.jpg

mapcompare.jpg
 
I do have the PLX wideband. Also I am going to try and aim for 11.5:1 when in boost. What should it be for when not in boost? Just stock Ratio? Also I have installed FMIC and a GT2871R turbo. Should I up the ratio a little for this? Also my 440cc injectors came in this week along with the wideband and SS AFC. And this weekend I will be installing them and trying to get this thing tuned and running right.
 
Boy you have a lot of work ahead of you. Just leave the stock fuel map pre-boost alone for right now. You can see how my stock map went leaner right before you hit boost, then fell off the map. I'm pretty sure I left everything alone before the 3000rpm mark.
 
Haha I know exactly what you mean with work. I have been working on this car for a year now. But I'm determined to get it running good. Right now my only problem is fuel cut and it bogs down at red lights and pushing in the clutch after moving for a while.

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You need to fix all mechanical problems the car is having before you start to tune it. You have a vacuum leak most likely causing the stalling or you need to relocate your MAF sensor after the BOV
 
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