AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

[jdwk]

Scan tool. Your STFT eventually made their way to your LTFT, and you started adding that extra fuel in open loop. Only way to solve this is get a scan tool and adjust the closed loop portion of your tables until your LTFT and STFT values are zero across and up and down the board. You can either do this, reset your PCM every time you start the car, or go full standalone.

 

[HKPRO5]

Let me know if you are looking to go full standalone. =) I might be doing that as well.

 

[MSP2k3]

Scan tool. Your STFT eventually made their way to your LTFT, and you started adding that extra fuel in open loop. Only way to solve this is get a scan tool and adjust the closed loop portion of your tables until your LTFT and STFT values are zero across and up and down the board. You can either do this, reset your PCM every time you start the car, or go full standalone.

I know you know more about tuning than I do as I have followed you in the aem thread. What is the best way to zero your fuel trims? Do you slowly adjust all the values Leaner?

I am re-reading the you tune article on the first page as well

 

[HKPRO5]

Bump. I would like to know as well.

What should the STFT & LTFT be at idle?

 

[MSP2k3]

Well after reading the u-tune article again, I think I am going to pick up a scan tool and start completely over.

HKPRO5, the goal is to get your fuel trims as near to 0 as you can. STFT and LTFT will cancel each other out. so an STFT of -2.5% and a LTFT of +2.5% work out to a fuel trim of 0.

Basically, gonna start with a blank map of all 10's, and adjust every single cell value a bit at a time, until the fuel trims are close to 0 at idle. Once I have that, then i will try and re-tune for WOT and all pressure ranges. Supposedly this will make tuning easier and keep it from resetting.

Now, need to find a good scan tool.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

they have links on the site, or maybe in the article if I remember correctly, but anyways let me know how it works out, I was able to get my map to stick almost completely, I think the richness lately was there, but I hadn't tuned for the colder weather as much, so I think a little more fuel trimming and it should be good..

I would think it would be possible, or at least cool if you could get the scan tool hooked up to the datalogging, so it would show up on the map somehow, would make things easier

 

[jdwk]

Hey guys, this is what I did. My brother was in town, and so I had him sit in the passenger seat with my laptop hooked to the AEM and the bluetooth OBDII module. I used some trial OBDII software. If you had a smartphone, then you could use Torque. I tried it with my friend's Incredible and it worked well, but I am too cheap for a data plan.

First I reset my PCM (pulled the harness from the PCM), so that my LTFT's were zero'd out. Then I drove all through the RPM and MAP range while he watched the trims and the fuel system status, and adjusted my fuel table until all trims were zero. Then I went back through my logs and checked the AFR everywhere, and adjusted the O2 offset to make it richer or leaner. Then I went back through the range with the scan tool to zero those out. This took a lot of time and miles and gas. Don't expect to get this done in a single day.

Oh and my LTFT at idle is +2, but that has a lot of variables going into it.

 

[justanothermp5]

yea i need to reset all mine and start tuning again. My car takes like 4 time to start once its warm, it'll start, run for a sec, then stall out.
i need a ******* scan tool

 

[719prottege]

you can get that blutooth obdII thing for like $30, and its awsome

 

[jdwk]

I paid $60 after shipping from dealextreme.com. I went with that one because it looked small enough I could just plug it in and leave it there all the time and it is. The only downside is that it took about 6 weeks to get here. They gave me a tracking number, and most of that time it was sitting in customs. Also the mini-CD that came with it was snapped in half.

I e-mailed their customer support about it and never received a response, which I wasn't too surprised about. That's why I had to use the trial software. I can send a link to that if anyone goes this route.

 

[HKPRO5]

Post up your map! =)

 

[Carlinator]

So with upgraded SMIC, turboback, new WGA and step colder plugs, I should be good to run 10 psi on the superstock map, right?

 

[AnthonyMSP]

I'm still new to the whole afc thing and I'm not exactly sure what map I'd need to use with my mods; here is what I have done for now:

relocated MAF
1 stage colder plugs
FMIC with 2.5" piping
SRI
running on 8psi

any tips or suggestions would be appreciated

 

[HKPRO5]

Do you have a wideband? If not I would suggest on getting one if you plan on tuning.

Its always best to start with the SuperStock map (thats what its made for) then you can make your own adjustments from there.

 

[AnthonyMSP]

no I dont, been looking, I just had to spend a huge chunk of change to get a new motor and get it installed, I'm just so happy to get it back after 3 weeks, pg kinda messed up my transaction.. but since I have her back I'm antsy to buy something new, so I'm thinking a wideband and a gauge pod. But anyway isn't the superstock map the map already programmed in the afc??

 

[HKPRO5]

It should be.

If you need anything let me know. =)

 

[AnthonyMSP]

ok thanks, but I'm still wondering why I have a little hesitation issues? At first when I installed the afc it seemed like my 0-60 was the same as a lambo but after a day or so it was a huge downgrade, like the ecu got used to it and learned how to go around it, I know this isn't possible for the ecu to do, but it was a HUGE dufference from one day to the next..

 

[719prottege]

try to re-load the superstock map. are you using stock exhaust with cats and everything/???

 

[jdwk]

ok thanks, but I'm still wondering why I have a little hesitation issues? At first when I installed the afc it seemed like my 0-60 was the same as a lambo but after a day or so it was a huge downgrade, like the ecu got used to it and learned how to go around it, I know this isn't possible for the ecu to do, but it was a HUGE dufference from one day to the next..

That's exactly what the ECU is programmed to do. The AFC sends a lean voltage to your ECU's O2 input. The O2 responds by adding more fuel in closed loop. 16:1 AFR's are gone, car hauls balls. As an added bonus, when the ECU switched to open loop it instantly removed the STFT giving you a perfectly smooth transition into open loop where the AFC maps take over and you can run 12:1 to your heart's content. Thos are fun runs aren't they?

Unfortunately, those STFT's the PCM was adding because of your low O2 voltage eventually become LTFT's. And LTFT's also apply themselves in open loop mode. So whatever you added in closed loop, say 25%, is now being added to your open loop (above 4200 rpms) and your 12:1's are now more like 9:1, and it feels like you are driving through mud. The only way to get rid of this is to add the appropriate amount of fuel in closed loop mode to zero out your trims, which you absolutely must have a scan tool to do. And even if you get it perfect, you will still have a transition from where you need to add to fuel to where you need to pull fuel because the AFC can not detect when the PCM goes to open loop. You can only switch your fuel based on rpm and map, which are both analog signals that the PCM and piggyback can read slightly differently, so there is always going to be some small overlap. It's only really noticeable if I log my injectory duty cycle, but it is the primary limitation of a piggy back.

BTW, Still waiting on an AFC owner to man up and buy a scan tool to see exactly how the AFC is modifying the O2.

 

[HKPRO5]

PM me on what I need to do. I have a live data reading scan tool.