actuator arm question

Nightmare

Member
:
2003 Black MSP
on my quest to find out why my car is only holding 3lbs of boost, i discovered that there is a bolt on the wastegate arm that is backed off about half an inch.. its shinyer thread farther down the arm, so im going to assume it backed off some.

ive been told that this would affent my boost level, am i being told correct?

ill go snap a photo.
 
speed01011.jpg


speed01006.jpg
 
reading what i have, it would seem to be precisely my issue..


im going to tighten the bolt now.. someone correct me if im wrong, which i often am :P
 
Yes if it has spun lose it will def cause a problem with your wastegate not closing all the way. Which means you will have a hard time building boost. Just be careful with how much you turn it back in .
 
well, i snuged it up to the sleeve and i got back around .75 lbs of boost.. after the car cools down again, ill tug the arm back with a set of pliers and move the nut another few turns..
 
yea man, guy who owned it before me must have rolled it or something. im taking it to get the engine cleaned up sometime this week..
 
That is the crustiest MSP I have ever seen.

Your problem makes no sense. The nut has nothing to do with your boost level. Only the length of the rod changes boost level.
The rod on the turbo end is fitted on the wastegate arm, and the rod end on the actuator side is attached to the diapraghm. Even if the nut loosened up, the rod still should not have spun on either end to lengthen or shorten the rod.

Unless.... the acuator end attached to the diapraghm broke free of the diapraghm or the diapraghm broke free of the canister. In which case even if you lengthen the rod (which you need to do to get your boost back) you will never have stable boost.
 
well, boost is stable.
i tightened the nut, and it seemed like i gained nearly a full psi back, but it could just have been the classic hope for the besy syndrom.

Now.. is it common to have the stock boost of a msp around 4?

if so, i wont be weary of putting on a boost controller.
 
You can change that by shortening that rod. I think I did a write up of how to do it. It's pretty much undetectable to the "dealership" if you do it right and carefully. However it is a pain in the butt to do.
 
this may be a stupid question, but you know you need to keep your boost gauge on a vac line that isnt being shared with other things i you want it to read accurately right..
 
jeffmsp said:
this may be a stupid question, but you know you need to keep your boost gauge on a vac line that isnt being shared with other things i you want it to read accurately right..


yea.
 

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