95blkprobe's 02 p5 build

719protege said he had a maf to sell and i have sent him two pms and he has been on the boards since the pms so i guess he's just ignoring me. im still looking for a 3 wire maf, still may try start up tomorrow without the maf just to see if it will turn over.
heres my doc B system
prv:

oil filter relocation:


heres how the engine bay currently looks:
 
received a maf today as well as this special little flange which goes from a t3 to a 2.5" piping. im using this because i dont have a stock header anymore, so im using the turbo manifold and just welding a j bend to the flange then a 2 bolt on the other end to attach to the stock exhaust until break in period is over.

hoping to get the wideband, boost, and oil pressure gauges all wired as well as having the car running smoothly this weekend.
 
ok well heres a late update, i installed the maf and filled fluids and everything, went to start the car and not enough battery power, so i charged the battery overnight and tried again in the morning but noticed a puddle of coolant under the car. i searched everywhere and came to the conclusion that its the freeze plug between the engine and tranny. So now the tranny needs to be dropped to get to the plug. what pisses me off the most is that I didnt even install the freeze plugs, it was the machine shop. Lesson learned: never trust someone else's work, always go back and check. Well anyways, I trued starting the car and it will fire and run for maybe 3 seconds then shut back off, even if i give it slight throttle. im thinking it could be the old gas. does anyone know if their is a drain plug for the gas tank? i looked and couldnt find one, so i just put in some fuel additive to see if it would work. any other ideas as to why the car will only run for a few seconds then die?

only good part to this is since I will be dropping the tranny, I will go ahead and install the LSD.
 
whenever i had an exhaust leak an my MAF was dirty, the car would start, run, then kinda die out. But it would run alot longer then 3 seconds...
 
with the ignition on you should read a voltage of .6-2.0 and with it at idle you should read a voltage of .8-2.2
 
your trigger signal controls the fuel pump. key on will prime. check to make sure you have between .025 and .060" air gap from your crank position sensor and reluctor wheel. If that checks out, then check to make sure your fuel pump is working while its running for those 3 seconds. You may be only priming with key on and thats enough to start the car for a short period, but why its cutting off might be from not having CKP signal. Your pump works or it wouldnt fire at all.
 
Nope, found two more leaking ones so I will be having a "calm" talk with the machine shop tomorrow. Motor will be pulled next week and all new freeze.plugs as well as installing the lsd
 
nice to see it start! keep it up. lmk when your ready to join=)
 
Nice to see it run man............ IMO wire tuck when you have the motor back out ;)
 
nice to see it start! keep it up. lmk when your ready to join=)
will do man!
Nice to see it run man............ IMO wire tuck when you have the motor back out ;)
it has crossed my mind, well at least the harness that runs across the top of the engine for starters. You cant tell but i already made some modifications to the harness: the plugs for the solenoids for fpr and charcoal canister are normally by the TB, but with the 626 mani, they are attached by a bracket on the intake mani next to the cruise control. so i extended the harness and ran in under the mani to help hide some of it.
 

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