626 manifold quetsion....yet another thread

Alejo_NIN said:
feeling is not a FACT.
Click to expand...

I thought you'ld have some snipity coment like that. Oh and did you ever dyno your car? no. thats what I thought. so your car just "FELT" better too. and if you did have any boost leaks you would have had a P0174 system too lean code.

I'm not not here to jump on your or anyones ass. in fact I hate this type of squableing.

Fact is that the two sets of injectors where not dirty when used.
Fact is that the two sets are different flow rates, nozle lengths, and spray paterns.
There was a very noticeable difference between the two.

you can feel if jello is soft or hard. you can feel if a bowling ball is hevier than a football. those feelings are facts, but it would not be a fact if we were to say that we felt a 9lbs difference between the the two balls. I did not says it felt like a 5hp gain with the 626 injectors.
So lets all just be cool and help each other out with building great cars.
As a BMW technician people wonder why I choose to drive my mazda instead of a BMW. I just simply say My car is paid for and handles better and gose just as fast. why down grade my drivability?
 
correct me if i'm wroing, but you car is not turbo
it might affect a turbocharged car more as flow is not sufucient, even with the MSP injectors.
so, if the MSP inj are not enough, logic tells you a less flowing inj won't be any better.

it might work good on a n/a application, but we'll have to see how it behaves under hard acc at high RPMS, where inj flow does matter.

you as a BMW engineer should know this stuff better than me.

i'm not being a dick, sorry if i came off a little too strong.

my manifold install, a syou said, was not dyno proven. i did it just because someone else said if was not doable under the impression that it would not fit. it fits and performs just as any other manifold. i do't know if it flows better or makes the car breath esier, all i know is that it fits. that's my fact. can't say how much HP it gives or anything else unless dyno with and wihtout to see the difference....
unless someone is willing to come up with a stock mani and money for me to do two dynos, it just won't happen.
 
we must be pretty off base I would never condone useing the old injectors that flow 55ml/min less on a turbo car. I was just talking about mine or
n/a in general.
 
moving forward...

maybe the smaller injectors leaned out the mix?
that might show gains, right?

My AEM tells injector duty cycle and I think we never got more than 70% or so on the stock P5ers.
 
Exactly. I've had it on a emissions dyno and it runs prety close to 14.7:1 but at full trottle it's still pig rich at 11.8:1-12.3:1 Ok so lets move on
 
hmm... if i dont buy those lightweight pullies then i'd be able to do a dyno before and after... $50 for 3 pulls on a DynoJet sounds like a good deal to me... i know i need to drive around for a week or two to get the motor to get used to no butterflies and no EGR... i also wanted to add bigger injectors to balance out the A/F ratio, and the 1.8L ignition conversion with Magnecor Wires and have the AEM F/I Controller play with those mods...

since it is a single-runner... not having the vics isnt as bad, yes?
 
BinoMP5 said:
hmm... if i dont buy those lightweight pullies then i'd be able to do a dyno before and after... $50 for 3 pulls on a DynoJet sounds like a good deal to me... i know i need to drive around for a week or two to get the motor to get used to no butterflies and no EGR... i also wanted to add bigger injectors to balance out the A/F ratio, and the 1.8L ignition conversion with Magnecor Wires and have the AEM F/I Controller play with those mods...

since it is a single-runner... not having the vics isnt as bad, yes?
Click to expand...

$50 bucks is a great deal on the dyno. YOU DON'T NEED TO DRIVE AROUND FOR A WEEK!!! To reset the ECU you just need to pull off the + and - terminals from the battery and touch them together for 30 seconds. that clears all stored electricity out of the computers in the system and NO it dosen't screw anything up. but you will need to give it a drive for about 20 min. to get things re-adapted

On a side note if you go with the 1.8L coils get the "NGK Power Cables" plug wires. they are 300 ohms of resistance per foot which is way lower than even the magnacore wires. they don't make them for the mazdas thogh but if you order them for a 98 Honda Civic EX they fit perfect on our mazdas. that is my ignition setup.
 
yeah mazda is the way to go but you might be able to order them from a parts store. I need a wiring diagram for the 1.8l ignition system so I can rewire it to work on an Accel GM 4 clyn. coil pack. 45,000 volts would be a big step up. the stock 1.8l coils are somewhere(not fact but a good educated guess) between 25,000-30,000 volts. Most MSD coils are 35,000 volts.
 
Blackrose said:
The EGR is designed to reduce ping. That the point to a Exhaust Gas Recipricator. It takes inert not compustable gas and recycles it into the compustion chamber. This reduces the chance of pinging. This also alows car companys to advance timming in cars to make them more efficient. I think though; in the MSP's case the timming in the car is already very conservative. Thus the msp is less likely to detonate anyway. But in a N/A car with some more aggrestive timming pinging will occur. And some MSP guys have gone as far as to blame the lack of an EGR to there blown motor. I dont see it but there is a minute posibility. Like I said in my case I get no pingin with a lack of working EGR. And i am very modified.
Click to expand...


Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valce. your half right, yes the point of the EGR is to take already burnt gases and put it back into the intake manifold. but not to reduce ping. it's main purpose is to take up the space in the combustion chamber so a smaller amount of fresh air and fuel is filling the rest of the chamber, thus reducing emissions. like diluting liquids. it also has a cooling effect by reducing the combustion temps and the egr only opens at part throttle light loads, it is closed at idle and heavy load i.e. WOT.
 
So I bought a 626 manifold from a junkyard.. and when I got it in the mail today it turned out to be the pre 2000 version. They claim it's from a 2000 but there is no way it is.. it looks just like the manifold Alejo has in the first post.

Anyone interested? PM me if you are, I don't feel like messing with it in order to make it fit..
 
Ive been trying to follow this and all the hype about the manifold increasing power but, does it fit all the engines? 2.0, 1.8, 1.6
Im a little confused
 
Well? Have any of you figured out the bogging at cold start problem?

I'm prepping a turbo kit for my P5, just wondering wether I should bother with the hassle of it. There's a couple at the junk yard here in the northcountry... Canada that is! Or should I wait till I can hook up an 01+?

I'd like some serious oppinions from those who actually did the install to tell me if you guys really think it was worth it or more just a fun side project...
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Marz_130
Mazda 626 Manifold Swap question (2003 Protege/MP3)
Replies
3
Views
888
njaremka
N
C
Intake manifold discussion?
Replies
2
Views
2K
googoo1oo
G
B
Vtcs/vics question with 626 intake manifold
Replies
7
Views
3K
Riot_Polizei
Riot_Polizei

Latest posts

Back