60k mile tuneup. sound about right?

[Patrickenator]

on my list. stuff that isn't generally 'tuneup' is needed...

1. Clutch. thinkin ACT
2. timing belt..oem?
3. vac hose kit / vac block samco or hose technics
4. wastegate actuator ATP
5. tranny flush, replace w/ redline synth 75w90
6. wheel alignment
7. sparkplugs zfr6fIX-11
8. oil flush, mobil1 fill, magnetic drain plug
9.coolant system flush hoses look ok for now...
10. anything i'm missing or MSP specific to check?


also, if anyone can give any pointers on how to do the flushes at home (if possible) i would love to save the money on that stuff...

thanks a bunch

 

[special--k]

Im sure you can do the Oil... There is a How-To for the Tranny, and Coolant shouldnt be a problem. Make sure to check your WG, Turbo O-rings could be changed. and check your Acc belts. a buddy of mine just had his snap on his way to my place, and hes right at the 60k mark.

 

[slavrenz]

on my list. stuff that isn't generally 'tuneup' is needed...

1. Clutch. thinkin ACT
2. timing belt..oem?
3. vac hose kit / vac block samco or hose technics
4. wastegate actuator ATP
5. tranny flush, replace w/ redline synth 75w90
6. wheel alignment
7. sparkplugs zfr6fIX-11
8. oil flush, mobil1 fill, magnetic drain plug
9.coolant system flush hoses look ok for now...
10. anything i'm missing or MSP specific to check?


also, if anyone can give any pointers on how to do the flushes at home (if possible) i would love to save the money on that stuff...

thanks a bunch

You can pop your valve cover off and check it for peace of mind, but I very highly doubt that this needs to be changed at 60k miles (although I realize that some manuals do say this). I would go with the alternate recommendation of inspection at 60k miles and replacement at 105k miles.

 

[Patrickenator]

Im sure you can do the Oil... There is a How-To for the Tranny, and Coolant shouldnt be a problem. Make sure to check your WG, Turbo O-rings could be changed. and check your Acc belts. a buddy of mine just had his snap on his way to my place, and hes right at the 60k mark.

yea i can do the oil no prob. tranny just drain it from the hose on the bottom then flush with water and fill the tank plus the overflow? i can probably figure out how to drain, but where do i fill the trans oil from?

 

[Patrickenator]

You can pop your valve cover off and check it for peace of mind, but I very highly doubt that this needs to be changed at 60k miles (although I realize that some manuals do say this). I would go with the alternate recommendation of inspection at 60k miles and replacement at 105k miles.

hmm what exactly am i looking for under the VC? just that nothing looks broken/worn/weird?

 

[special--k]

yea i can do the oil no prob. tranny just drain it from the hose on the bottom then flush with water and fill the tank plus the overflow? i can probably figure out how to drain, but where do i fill the trans oil from?

IIRC there is a plug around the middle of the side of the tranny to fill it.

Check the How-To i think its in there.

 

[KrayzieFox]

I would suggest staying away from the Iridium plugs, go with just the regular copper ZFR6F-11's instead.

 

[Patrickenator]

i don't wanna turn this into a plug discussion :s. the iridium is what i've seen JDM-Sam suggest which is why i put it on there. I'm not saying you're wrong...but if you have specific proven reasons not to i'd love to see a PM from ya

 

[Patrickenator]

do i need to do the clutch first? do fluids need to be drained for a clutch replacement?

 

[jamesk]

You can not change the transmission oil if your telling someone else to change the clutch. When they change the clutch, they are going to change the oil as well.

 

[BOOSTR]

You sure Sam is suggesting an iridium over a copper? Copper's give a better spark and I know he knows that.

Add a PCV and clean or replace your air filter. You blew through your clutch already with only 60K? +1 on not needing a new timing belt yet at that mileage. Replace the water pump also if you are doing the timing belt anyway. Don't want to go back twice, unless you like working that way.

There's a fill plug on the side of the transaxle, drain plug is on the bottom. Just drain it and refill with the correct weight of gear oil. No need to flush it.

Exedy Stage One is a better clutch choice. Sam recommends those as well.

 

[special--k]

i don't wanna turn this into a plug discussion :s. the iridium is what i've seen JDM-Sam suggest which is why i put it on there. I'm not saying you're wrong...but if you have specific proven reasons not to i'd love to see a PM from ya

i dont think Sam suggested Iridium... IIRC he was against it.

 

[Patrickenator]

hmm i swear i read it in a post somewheres...anyhow i went with the coppers lol seems to run a lil better than it was but the old ones didn't look terrible....
i'd do the clutch if i could but you gotta pull the motor don't you?
reasons for my suspecting stuff needs replacing

1. car has a salvage title so who knows what to expect...has been fine for over a year and a half in my hands. pretty sure the clutch is slipping...only if i feather/drop the clutch while mashing gas in 2nd or 3rd takes a little too long to set into gear..also gets decent chatter about 1500RPM when the trans hasn't been worked yet...warming up the engine only helps so much...after driving a couple blocks it goes away. this happens even in neutral so its not the clutch..please tell me its not the lsd...

belts and whatnot: i smell burning rubber sometimes when driving the car around for a bit...still pulls pretty good but i think i have a minor vac leak somewheres which is helpin out (i know i know...)

i just thought 60k would be a good conservative time to get her runnin like new again. don't want to overlook something.

should i get main seals and cam seals ? they are cheap but are they hard to install?

thanks to all for the help so far!

 

[PointFive]

At 60,000 miles you should also check the valve clearances. The Protege manual explains how.

 

[JDM Sam]

If you're not heavily modified Iridiums will be fine. However, V-power will be just as good.

 

[dstmsp03]

coppers work wonderful.. but they only work wonderful for about 10K miles, then they need changed out again.

 

[Patrickenator]

well for $2 a pop i ain't complaining lol. i'll check the manual for valve clearance checking...